[fried]

A good week

STG - 10 pull ups
LTG - 7A by 50

Mon - Bit sick, but had an O.K indoor session 6 new problem in the blue circuit to try. Flashed the first 2, being easy for the grade vertical stuff. The next 4 are all overhanging to some degree, start working moves on 1 of them. 7/12 blues done.

Tues - Hit my 10 pull ups YYFY
Wed - Indoor, working 2 of the 4 overhanging probs, slow and tiring work.
Thur - Work
Fri - Decide against another indoor session as the weather looks O.K for tomorrow.

Sat - My pinks have developed a hole, so I put my back-up blancos in my back and headed off for Gorge aux châts. Start off with a couple of blues to warm up, then start on some crimpy red thing, that's one of my benchmark problems to fail on. Plenty of folks around and a good atmosphere. Failed on 'La Grève des Nains' - http://bleau.info/chats/9065.html, should've done better on a couple of reds that I tried. A bit tired so I repeat some blues at the botto of the hill, then decide to have my usual couple of attempts at 'Dalle grise' - http://bleau.info/chats/9035.html.

Decided to put on my blancos and after a few goes I'd reached my previous high point, then I was passed it, a couple of desperate slaps on the top out and it was done. YYFY my first 6A.

Sun - On strike

[Muenchener]

YYFY my first 6A.

Font slab 6A to boot. Well done.

[mindfull]

Was overtrained. STG of raising the bar in training reached ... Did not get injured but didn"t recover anymore. Only light sessions this week and focus on rest and recovery. To weak to run, to weak to do hard climbing, my bed is my friend.
Will adapt the powerlifting scheme to a full body fitness scheme

MTG: marathon (sub 3h), Powerlifting totals up, Climbing 8a sport.
LTG: 100k sub (10h), Climbing "la divine providence (Chamonix)

Mo: (and the rest of the week) Very sore in deltoids and traps. Rest.
Tuesday: Route(1+1)/grade 5&6
Wednesday: Rest.
Thursday: Rest.
Friday: 2x20min (AeroCap), Full Body(Barbell Bent Over Row, Bench Press,Upright Row,Hammer Curl,Lying Triceps extension, Squat,Calf raises, ...) Lightweight 5x5
Saturday: Rest, some Tai Chi
Sunday: Rest
Saturday: Rest

[lagerstarfish]

LTG - 7A by 50

have you started a list yet?

[cheque]

Effort Fried.

I didn't climb or train this week- very busy at work at the moment and I'm having to work at home too so only had free time today (and I'm about to start working now) 

Did my prescribed rehab stretches and massage every day and went out filming today. Back on the Power Club train next week probably.

[Muenchener]

WEEK ENDING 9th NOVEMBER

STG (Autumn): Another decent day or two on the rock this year, weather permitting
MTG: redpoint 7a+
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M-W: Resting (on laurels). Felt like I might be about to go down with a cold or flu, but in the end didn't (yet?)

T:   Kettlebell 20kg 4xTGU both sides, 3x35 swings. As warm up for: Beastmaker 10 sets, same grips & weight as last week. Actually managed to hang the 35s on my home board for the first time: must be a sign that either I'm getting stronger or the board is finally getting broken in. (On public boards at walls I can do repeaters on 35s and max hangs on 45s; was shocked at how slippery the 35s were on my brand new board when I first got it)

F: Bike to work 30km

S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Bouldered & did some PE circuits, nothing special to report. Undecided whether I'm still in "maintenance training" mode indoors in hope of the glorious autumn weather continuing, or if it's time to start the base mileage phase of my winter training cycle.
Bike to & from wall: 20km in theory but got lost and it felt a lot further.

S: Bodyweight stuff in the park including weighted pullups 5 x 3 x +15kgs. The pullup bar in my local park is fairly  fat, plated with some kind of super slippery zinc and utterly desperate on foggy autumn mornings. Good; all the better for training effect.
40 minutes alpine fitness step-ups w/15kg rucksack; also desperate.

[fried]

LTG - 7A by 50

have you started a list yet?

You must be joking. It's already got a couple of hundred of problems on it. Number one :

[lagerstarfish]

have you got on a few in order to make a start on a short-list?

[csl]

November Goals
Find a UK project (7c+) to work - should have tried one at Brean today, but too busy.
Go Trad climbing
Climb a V8 indoors

Mon - Rest
Tue - Biscuit Factory, Bouldering. Tried a couple of V7's. Did a V6.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Westway. Routes, onsight attempts up to 7b+. Success up to 7a+.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Rest
Sun - Brean
6b, 6c. Tried a 7b+, found it hard so stripped it. Then did a 7b, 2nd go.

I should have got back on Chulilla/tried one of the 7c+'s today as Brean will be a good winter project venue.

[nik at work]

STG - just keep training, outside climbing time is going to be in short supply until after Christmas I suspect...
MTG - climb outside
LTG - cave projects and 8c/+

M - see last weeks post.
T - nothing, beasted
W - unweighted BM session, 20s hangs still felt tired.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - +35kg BM session, hard!
S - unweighted BM session 20s hangs, started to feel normal again.
Roll on next week...

[shark]

Decided to put on my blancos and after a few goes I'd reached my previous high point, then I was passed it, a couple of desperate slaps on the top out and it was done. YYFY my first 6A.

   good choice of weapon


11.7-8

Rest week

Met up with Barrows and have an outline structure for the winter. Key features: a tweaked systems board routine, lots of fingerboarding and lots of bouldering (but no sieges).

Will ease into it this week.

[andybfreeman]

Season 1 of periodised training. Grampians trip in Jan, aiming to finish off Tyranny 29 and some longer routes on Taipan including Groovy and Venom

M - Rest
Tu - 3 x 30 min continuous on lead
W - 3 x 30 min continuous on lead
Th - 2 x 30 min continuous on lead
F - rest
Sa - First Hangboard session on my new freestanding beastmaker rig. It was a bit of a tester to find the appropriate weight to take off using the two pulley set up but I still felt well worked by then end! 6 grips, 2 sets of repeaters each with an increase in weight for set 2. Finished with some one arm pulls
Su - Long walk with the gf in the morning including a bit of a play on body weight stuff in the park. Arvo of food and booze for a friend's birthday

Weight back up to 71.3kg this morning (too much food and booze yesterday arvo) but average 70 for the week

[kelvin]

STG - Nov. Keep up mileage and work on power.
MTG - Spring. Focus on strength indoors. Have a decent grit season... lead a Brown and Whillans route!
LTG - Next Oct. Take 18 months off and go climbing! Spain for 6 months. Goal - f7a and not a soft one. Also Zeppelin, El Chorro.

Mon - Rest
Tue - Demotivated, hate indoors after being away and was really tired. Led on the overhanging comp wall, a rare thing for me. Made it to two clips from the top of everything I tried, then just powered out. Scared to fall, then didn't want to fall because I was told to, then fell because I wanted the tick and just plain failed. Kicked the wall and had a sulk.
Wed - Quick boulder. Yoga class. This is proving to be illuminating, my whole body is pretty much locked up. Then get on the finger boards to work lock off and pull-up strength. 2 pull-ups in the BM mono slots. Safe to say, the finger's sorted now.
Thu - Aerocap. Climbed right slowly on V0 jugs, holding position on each move for a count of ten. Finally found an exercise that works my weaknesses! Fingers and forearms fine, legs fine... upper arms and shoulders utterly boxed in a powering out way. Just kept grinding it out. Tough, really tough.
Fri - Drive to the Peak.
Sat - Pouring rain at the Roaches but seconded VS Raven Rock gully left hand and an overhanging VS offwidth (the bulger?). A right struggle, learnt loads. Jams held every time, had to back and foot for the first time and had a fun day. Mate headed up the Sloth but it was a waterfall, so he bailed left.
Sun - Skyline, Roaches. Mate ticked Track of the Cat E5. The overhanging, green and sopping wet start was too strong/wet for me but the slab was great. Managed all the moves on it after adding about 6 foot movements to Jonny's sequence, although the last move was tough. Cruised the lower 5b move straight away and the 6a move after it with a couple of tries, then linked them easily enough but didn't manage to link the top move despite finding a workable sequence. Sounds daft but I don't think it would be un-feasible for me to lead this one day. Also bouldered out the start to Wings of Unreason, flip me, it was hard to get the leg up on the lower slab!

Really tried hard this week. Shoulders and upper arms have ached lots but the fingers have felt good.

Followed nai's advice and did a session of holding moves for a count of ten during aerocap, this was boring as fuck but highlighted my poor general strength. May have to separate holding moves from the aerocap for a while however, until I'm stronger! It was a bit too hard, in an effort sense but felt like it worked the part of me that I feel is my weakest link.

Pleased with the mono pullups, good for the psyche but still can't do more than two even on the 4 finger slots at the moment.

A learning week really, as did lots of things I don't enjoy/am rubbish at like overhangs and sitting here in reflection - I must be getting better at that this climbing lark but being any good feels a long way away,

[krymson]

STG: Onsight 6c+
MTG: Become solid 7a/b climber
LTG: Climb hard till old age

M - weights in the morning , Yoga at night
T - Outdoors
-Warmed up on pumpy, overhanging 6a+ - focused on maintaining momentum by using the first holds i touched instead of "adjusting" or 'establishing"
On the way down, rehearsed tricky, crux move of neighboring 7a+ project
-Attempted said, thuggy 7a+ project and sent it putting up the draws! Better awareness of feet and a good warmup definitely helped.
-Tried a 6c+ arete climb with exposure(my weaknesses!) and got up it. Proud send.
-Tried another 6c+ with a boulder problem at the start. Worked the moves but will have to come back for the send.

W antagonists, shoulder work

Th Outdoors
-warmed up on a 6c with varied movement. Focused on using bad handholds and using the feet as much as possible.
-repeated a fun 7a+
-Tried a new 7a+ with varied movement(balancy slab start to face climbing to slightly overhanging arete). Friend gave lots of helpful beta.
-ended the day on a high note by sending it next go!
-Came home super-psyched and made the mistake of trying to wear myself out on the fingerboard - ended up slightly aggravating an A2 pulley.


Fri antagonists, shoulder work
Sat zoo with the lady
Sun Indoor lead wall with friends(6a/b level)
-warmed up doing a few 6a/bs on autobelay, top rope ,and then lead.
-onsight a 6b+
-onsighted a pumpy 6c with roof section by good pacing and maintaining momentum.
-Attempted a sandbagged 7a onsight- got halfway through and had to take. In hindsight, should have  focused on working the moves first go instead of listening to the ego and attempting an onsight at this grade.

Good
Redpointing 7a/+ outdoors in 3 goes or less
Better at warming up

To Improve
Shoulders
Route memorization and visualization.
Keep ego in check

[Muenchener]

STG - just keep training, outside climbing time is going to be in short supply until after Christmas I suspect...
MTG - climb outside

What happened to "spam everybody else"? I was looking forward to that

[fried]

have you got on a few in order to make a start on a short-list?

To my knowledge the hardest problems I've ever touched have been a couple of 6Bs, one of which was Beurre marga. The nature of low-grade font climbing means I tend to follow circuits and occassionally have a go on something off-circuit. I think I'd be hard pushed to even point out more than a couple of harder problems in some of the popular areas.

[T_B]

83.8Kg

M - lunch - School. Bouldering. Good sess.
T -
W - lunch - School. Bouldering, even better than Monday. Getting stronger. Close on a number of benchmark problems on the 50 degree.
T -
F - lunch - Foundry. Stretching, leg pulls and press ups.
S - p.m. - School. Started off bouldering but ankle playing up. Did some weighted hangs (7Kg), bench presses, stuff on rings.

Bit of experimenting this week as trying to do more stretching, antagonistic stuff, plus general strength and core. Psyched for some weighted hangs. Would be nice to get outdoors, but not massively fussed.

[T_B]

Forgot.. also did a p.m. session Wednesday at the works. General bouldering..

[Schnell]

STG: fix finger
MTG: local 7B/+ classic problem, try to get sport/bouldering trip in around christmas or new year

M. tired after weekend away bouldering
T. max hangs in morning, reasonable session with some progress. Eve cycle 20km to wall, arrive tired and fail to warm up properly, inevitably I tweak a finger NNFN, it feels like a collateral ligament on RH middle finger
W.
T. I decide that I imagined the tweak on tuesday so I go to the wall and just don't do any crimping. A slight bit of tenderness but not too bad, though I can't decide if it's my a2 or collateral ligament. None the less I decided to have a rest for the weekend.
F.
S. shoulder stability stuff
S. same again, shoulder stability exercises with weights and theraband

Not a great week, I thought I had learnt my lesson about resting, warming up etc but obviously not. I should have taken two days off at least after last weekend. I'm going to be responsible about this tweak and go ultra easy on it while focusing on shoulder stuff.

[Dolly]

M Foundry Furnace board at lunchtime Pilatesin the evening
T Gym core and weights including Bulgarian Bag - interesting
W Nothing
T Good hard shed sess on the newly reset board
F Back and shoulders ached from THursday night
S Nothing - well I walked to the match quite quickly
S Plantation. Pretty warm really but nice to be out. Had a look at Hippo but you really need a spot for that. Good play on Captain Hook. Didnt do it but have worked out what to do and now just need to do it

[JackAus]

STG: DWS project.
MTG: More V7s?
LTG: V11

Only 1 day climbing this week...

M: Flat Rock. Bunch of easy stuff and worked a V6 (tough!) and worked a project (also about V6). Have now done all moves on the project but each move is fairly tough... Hard to link any together...

[rodma]

have you got on a few in order to make a start on a short-list?

To my knowledge the hardest problems I've ever touched have been a couple of 6Bs, one of which was Beurre marga. The nature of low-grade font climbing means I tend to follow circuits and occassionally have a go on something off-circuit. I think I'd be hard pushed to even point out more than a couple of harder problems in some of the popular areas.

Beurre marga is one of the hardest problems attempted in font by lots of  (unsuspecting) people, regardless of what grade it is given. you should probably try something with a higher number attached. that said, it is a very satisfying problem to tick and if you perservere with it, other comparible problems will feel substantially easier.

[fried]

I already knew it's reputation, but I thought I'd have a go, as I've walked passed it so many times. Nice landing, not too high, didn't get off the ground. It was in the middle of summer.....one for the future.

[tomtom]

I already knew it's reputation, but I thought I'd have a go, as I've walked passed it so many times. Nice landing, not too high, didn't get off the ground. It was in the middle of summer.....one for the future.

Is your question worth a thread of its own? "whats the easiest 7 in Font etc....?"

[fried]

I don't remember asking any questions on this thread.