UKBouldering.com

IFSC boulder world championships 2014 (Read 19758 times)

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2693
  • Karma: +117/-0
F3 = everyone reaching the bonus and failing to complete.

I think Akiyo's final attempt would've gone - RH on the volume, LH up to the crimp, then to the top - skipping the terrible hold. Ran out of time though.
Interesting that the route setters said it was the easiest one of the 4 - was everyone doing duff beta?

It was hilarious, at least from Pooch onwards when it was obvious that *nobody* was going to be able to use that hold. Jule's beta - share on the crimp and stand up with the right heel on the slopy volume - was looking quite promising.

I'm not much of a boulderer, but it looked to me like quite a few beta variants were tried. Definitely looked too far for petite women to throw a foot over into the corner, which wasn't marked out & might have been conceivable for tall blokes like Adam or Jan.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2967
  • Karma: +335/-2
It's interesting how - judging from the highlights - people seem to be moving faster and in a more fluid fashion than I recall they did not many years ago. Has setting changed or has everyone been watching Ondra videos?

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
One of the best bouldering competitions I've watched. The route setting did its job.

Only 2 things marred the enjoyment slightly. First, the camerawork. I think you need 2 cameras and a split-screen, too much action was misssed. Not sure If a perfect systems been found yet. Secondly, the commentary needs sorting out,  JonP was excellent during the season, but the commentator for this event obviously had no idea about competition bouldering and was reduced to repeating the same catchphrases.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
One of the best bouldering competitions I've watched. The route setting did its job.

Only 2 things marred the enjoyment slightly. First, the camerawork. I think you need 2 cameras and a split-screen, too much action was misssed.

split screen is wank, as anyone who's played two player goldeneye on the N64 will know. Theres always gunna be some action missed when you put the men and women on at the same time. Has it always been like this, are lead comps the same? (the only lead comp I've watched is a re run of Jerry winning)

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
I know what you mean but it seems the lesser of two evils. No idea what they do in lead comps, the only time I tried watching one I was bored to death after a few minutes. I'm sure staggering the male and female climber would take too long.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5773
  • Karma: +229/-4
One of the best bouldering competitions I've watched. The route setting did its job.

Only 2 things marred the enjoyment slightly. First, the camerawork. I think you need 2 cameras and a split-screen, too much action was misssed.

split screen is wank, as anyone who's played two player goldeneye on the N64 will know. Theres always gunna be some action missed when you put the men and women on at the same time. Has it always been like this, are lead comps the same? (the only lead comp I've watched is a re run of Jerry winning)

Rubbish, its a basic requirement of showing a sporting event that you show the action, we missed several tops due to the feed showing the other climber at the time, and it's not just this comp that it was a problem at. The feed was widescreen which is almost completely pointless for a climbing comp, if they're not on the wide shot showing the whole wall, screen real estate would have been much better used showing both climbers split screen. and wtf were they doing interviewing anna while people where on the wall? (although her giving the audience the bird was funny).

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal