[Duma]

Rustam out in qualifiers.
Girls qualifying tomorrow.
No Anna (finger injury).
Appears no stream till semis on sat morning?

[Muenchener]

I didn't make it men's qualis today because it was during working hours, but am planning to stop by for the ladies' qualis tomorrow after work on my way to the wall, and already have tickets for semis & finals on Saturday with M jnr.   

Weather is forecast to be showery, so I'm not even missing out on a good climbing day.

[Duma]

Nice!

[Durbs]

What's the cut off for Qualifying? Top 20 (so one of the top 10s)?

[Duma]

Yup, believe so

[Durbs]

Final Mens' Quals results:

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1499&cat=6

[r-man]

Keep trying.

[JackAus]

Results from one of the groups.

[Durbs]

Looks like Shauna's through - currently sitting 2nd in her group.

Top girls so far; Pooch, Jule Wurm, Akiyo, Shauna.

[finbarrr]

men's qualifier impression vid

[abarro81]

Looks like Michaela just pretty much guaranteed getting through to semis.. currently top of her group (ahead of Shauna and Wurm)!

[Durbs]

Wow - great result for Michaela!

Surprised Megan Martin isn't in - she looked to be a hot tip following her last IFSC rounds.

[Muenchener]

Charlotte Garden looked very strong on FA2 (bonus) but now struggling on start of FA3

... and 4. No semi for her.

Interesting to see the gap between the top and the tail end of the qualis. Been here half an hour & haven't seen a single top or even close

[mr__j5]

Wow - great result for Michaela!

Surprised Megan Martin isn't in - she looked to be a hot tip following her last IFSC rounds.

Are you not thinking of Megan Mascaranas (sp?) she was the one that performed well in Vail and Laval.

[Durbs]

Ah. Yes.

[a dense loner]

Is this on ifsc? Only get ifsc world champs in august coming up. Are finals today?

[dontfollowme]

[a dense loner]

nice one, i found it but ifsc don't make anything easy

[JackAus]

Both Shauna and Michaela through to finals.

Jimmy Kassay not through, dammit.

[sxrxg]

what time are the finals? I'm on my phone and am struggling to find the info on the ifsc website.

[Simon W]

They've got a countdown on the IFSC website that would put it at 5:45 so going with that myself

[Muenchener]

Schedule was 18:30 local time (so 17:30 uk) but announcer just said 19:00

[Muenchener]

Never seen a world championship won in front of a home crowd before, fucking briliant

[jwi]

Superb comp! That Ondra guy is rather good at climbing....

[Fiend]

Bleh, tried to start watching the stream from the start 1 1/2 hours behind, and the whole thing bloody stopped when the live stream finished. How long will it take to get the replays up?? Semis seemed to be up super quick....

[psychomansam]

Bleh, tried to start watching the stream from the start 1 1/2 hours behind, and the whole thing bloody stopped when the live stream finished. How long will it take to get the replays up?? Semis seemed to be up super quick....

Up now.

Great comp. Was rooting for Wurm a bit towards the end. A good day for Michaela. Not so great for Shauna. Was the shoulder tape symptomatic of something, or was it just her head?

[davej]

Brillant to watch and great to see Michaela in the final.

[Fiend]

Forgive me for being, errr, dense, but whereabouts is the VOD up? Can't find it on the IFSC site nor their Youtube channel nor generally searching Youtube nor the over-caffeinated sugary drink company TV site although I gave up quickly with the latter obviously.

[joel182]

Forgive me for being, errr, dense, but whereabouts is the VOD up? Can't find it on the IFSC site nor their Youtube channel nor generally searching Youtube nor the over-caffeinated sugary drink company TV site although I gave up quickly with the latter obviously.

It's hosted on the over-caffeinated sugary drink company site here - think I basically found it through blind luck earlier!

[Fiend]

Thanks. I did search over-caffeinated sugary drink company TV for "IFSC" and checked their events listing for "climbing" and "bouldering" with no luck, blind or otherwise.

[dontfollowme]

like Dense said, they don't make it easy to find. It also cut off for me when I was watching the PVR version.

[Muenchener]

Was the shoulder tape symptomatic of something

Apropos shoulder tape, I saw the Japanese team physio ice packing and strapping Melissa's shoulder after the semi. Heartening to see that the general friendliness and mutual encouragement that is obvious among the competitors at these events also extends to the support teams.

[iwasmexican]

thought all the problems looked great and couldnt really better set any better difficulty wise, also though it was a shame that all the mens problems revolved around big voluming...

[Muenchener]

thought all the problems looked great and couldnt really better set any better difficulty wise

Agree, as shown by the close-as-anything results - one attempt winning margin in the ladies - and the men's world champion being the only person with four tops.

Top bit for the live audience was probably the penultimate comedy "hold" on F3. By the time Pooch got on F3, the entire crowd was sitting there thinking "we know, and you don't know, that you're going to cruise to the bonus, and the hold after it, then touch the 'hold' after that and recoil in shock and disappointment to look for another sequence". Which was exactly what everybody did, although nobody found one that actually worked. Also refreshing, wrt Mex's other comment about volumes, that these alternative sequences involved desperate finger swapping on a crimp.

All in all, I don't go to many live sporting events and my son only occasionally climbs, but we both found it an absolutely fantastic day out. Interesting setting, great atmosphere in the crowd, super close and exciting competition. Having a home winner is obviously a plus, but climbers don't make for an especially nationalistic crowd and everybody was getting cheered to the rafters for everything. We found the gap between semis and final a bit long, but I assume the competitors didn't ...

[a dense loner]

Very good comp, best I've seen. Even though I only got to Alex's 2nd attempt on prob 3 in the final, damn work.
I do find it ridiculous that it's an ifsc comp and there websites shit, you'd think on the home page that day they'd have a big banner saying "World Cup comp today get it here". Why people would need to go through a over-caffeinated sugary drink company site is beyond me.

[Durbs]

Once Shauna was out of the running, I was rooting for Pooch - she was on great form, nailed the slab AND the run 'n jump which are usually her nemeses - a win for her is well overdue.

Good comp though - shame no Kili & Rustrum.

At first I was disappointed they'd set a run & jump, as they usually seem to either be complete stoppers, or just easy ways to split the bunch by racking up loads of attempts, but it  seemed to work well this time and made for an excting last problem.

Don't think Shauna was particularly off her game, just out-climbed on the day.

[Fiend]

Just caught up on Youtube, great viewing. I didn't think the problems were as good as some of the earlier ones esp. the American/Canadian ones but still a good variety and there were some very tense moments - a lot of sweaty tips watching that. Ondra schooling M1, the Wurm / Hojer simul-flash on whatever problem it was, and the brutality of W3, great stuff.

[GraemeA]

Why people would need to go through a over-caffeinated sugary drink company site is beyond me.

Possibly because over-caffeinated sugary drink company pay for the privilege.

[a dense loner]

do they? i must have had my eyes closed. i looked at the ifsc sponsors in case that was the case and it just said enterprise walls and kaisis (whatever that shits called)

[GraemeA]

When did I say they are a sponsor.

They pay to film/produce the event and to host the live coverage on their website.

[psychomansam]

Just to back up what everyone else has said (any problem-setters reading this?), the problem setting looked really good. The cameramen could've given us a few more close-ups on the M4 crimps, but I don't think it was overly volume based as these things go either.
F3 = everyone reaching the bonus and failing to complete. This is usually indicative of poor setting. But it was so entertaining watching them all look disgusted by the penultimate hold that it was totally worth it. And you can afford one dud when the other 3 break the pack so well.

 

[Paul B]

Just to back up what everyone else has said (any problem-setters reading this?), the problem setting looked really good.

In general it looked great but the whole run and jump start thing is getting a bit old if you ask me (which I'm aware nobody did). Especially if it appears to be the crux and the problem on top is a 'formality'.

I'd rather see people struggling with the climbing than taking their 10th run-up but maybe that's just me 

[GraemeA]

Michaela was the only one to try the proper sequence 

[finbarrr]

Just to back up what everyone else has said (any problem-setters reading this?), the problem setting looked really good.

In general it looked great but the whole run and jump start thing is getting a bit old if you ask me (which I'm aware nobody did). Especially if it appears to be the crux and the problem on top is a 'formality'.

I'd rather see people struggling with the climbing than taking their 10th run-up but maybe that's just me 

totally agree
i really enjoyed the comp, as i do most of em, but the run and jumps belong somewhere else (in parkours/freerunning comps?).
complicated movements are great, but who has ever done a run and jump on real rock AND thought "wow, what a great climb/boulder"?

[GraemeA]

but who has ever done a run and jump on real rock AND thought "wow, what a great climb/boulder"?

Some on here have, or at least attempted it. Andy Popp's stag do at Ravensheugh, everyone was trying a new route/problem that involved a running start :-)

[finbarrr]

but who has ever done a run and jump on real rock AND thought "wow, what a great climb/boulder"?

Some on here have, or at least attempted it. Andy Popp's stag do at Ravensheugh, everyone was trying a new route/problem that involved a running start :-)

crap, there goes that argument 

still think it doesn't belong in almost every boulder-final
plus i feel guilty when i have to laugh when the competitors take awkward slams (akiyo missing the foot-volume twice)

[a dense loner]

When did I say they are a sponsor.

They pay to film/produce the event and to host the live coverage on their website.

ah right ok. for some reason i just assumed that if you were going to film something and put it on your site that you'd sponsor it in some way. is this one of the reasons that the ifsc site is kept shit and has been since its inception? so they can hire it out to others

[JackAus]

Highlights.

[Durbs]

F3 = everyone reaching the bonus and failing to complete. This is usually indicative of poor setting. But it was so entertaining watching them all look disgusted by the penultimate hold that it was totally worth it. And you can afford one dud when the other 3 break the pack so well.

I think Akiyo's final attempt would've gone - RH on the volume, LH up to the crimp, then to the top - skipping the terrible hold. Ran out of time though.
Interesting that the route setters said it was the easiest one of the 4 - was everyone doing duff beta?

[jwi]

The likeliest explanation is that the last hold was put on slightly the wrong way.

[Muenchener]

F3 = everyone reaching the bonus and failing to complete.

I think Akiyo's final attempt would've gone - RH on the volume, LH up to the crimp, then to the top - skipping the terrible hold. Ran out of time though.
Interesting that the route setters said it was the easiest one of the 4 - was everyone doing duff beta?

It was hilarious, at least from Pooch onwards when it was obvious that *nobody* was going to be able to use that hold. Jule's beta - share on the crimp and stand up with the right heel on the slopy volume - was looking quite promising.

I'm not much of a boulderer, but it looked to me like quite a few beta variants were tried. Definitely looked too far for petite women to throw a foot over into the corner, which wasn't marked out & might have been conceivable for tall blokes like Adam or Jan.

[duncan]

It's interesting how - judging from the highlights - people seem to be moving faster and in a more fluid fashion than I recall they did not many years ago. Has setting changed or has everyone been watching Ondra videos?

[fried]

One of the best bouldering competitions I've watched. The route setting did its job.

Only 2 things marred the enjoyment slightly. First, the camerawork. I think you need 2 cameras and a split-screen, too much action was misssed. Not sure If a perfect systems been found yet. Secondly, the commentary needs sorting out,  JonP was excellent during the season, but the commentator for this event obviously had no idea about competition bouldering and was reduced to repeating the same catchphrases.

[Wood FT]

One of the best bouldering competitions I've watched. The route setting did its job.

Only 2 things marred the enjoyment slightly. First, the camerawork. I think you need 2 cameras and a split-screen, too much action was misssed.

split screen is wank, as anyone who's played two player goldeneye on the N64 will know. Theres always gunna be some action missed when you put the men and women on at the same time. Has it always been like this, are lead comps the same? (the only lead comp I've watched is a re run of Jerry winning)

[fried]

I know what you mean but it seems the lesser of two evils. No idea what they do in lead comps, the only time I tried watching one I was bored to death after a few minutes. I'm sure staggering the male and female climber would take too long.

[Duma]

One of the best bouldering competitions I've watched. The route setting did its job.

Only 2 things marred the enjoyment slightly. First, the camerawork. I think you need 2 cameras and a split-screen, too much action was misssed.

split screen is wank, as anyone who's played two player goldeneye on the N64 will know. Theres always gunna be some action missed when you put the men and women on at the same time. Has it always been like this, are lead comps the same? (the only lead comp I've watched is a re run of Jerry winning)

Rubbish, its a basic requirement of showing a sporting event that you show the action, we missed several tops due to the feed showing the other climber at the time, and it's not just this comp that it was a problem at. The feed was widescreen which is almost completely pointless for a climbing comp, if they're not on the wide shot showing the whole wall, screen real estate would have been much better used showing both climbers split screen. and wtf were they doing interviewing anna while people where on the wall? (although her giving the audience the bird was funny).