[petejh]

Unless it's a rule that aligns with your belief - like sticking abseil bolts in keyhole cave - then you're the chief legislator  to keep the world all nice and rosy 

[gme]

Bollocks. This technique isnt harder won its bought online from 5Ten.

And what about rules for the use of ladders, pads etc.

Glad to see you are the sentimental old fool i thought though.

[T_B]

What's so skilful about covering yourself in rubber?

Plus, you can't separate technique and power if you're at your limit.

[Johnny Brown]

Well I once did Great slab barefoot, but I wear boots normally. Someone should post Nic's Jessery article from the Thing...

Was there a cartoon of Gav complaining about toe-hooks in the School too, or was that more recent?

[Stu Littlefair]

Wierdly I have a quote (about Gav?, by Gav?) stuck in my head along the lines of "I've never forgiven him for using toe-hooks in the school, and now this...".

Sadly the context of this quote entirely escapes me and I've no idea who said it about whom, and what they did that could possibly be worse than toe-hooking in the school...

[Sloper]

Its just a shame that Johnny Brown doesn't feel the same, i had him down as the most sentimental of the lot of you. Must be a rock colour thing.

Not rock colour, its the old skill vs strength argument, and I'm on the side of skill every time. Every time a better sequence is found on an old testpiece I rejoice - just goes to show that strength is quickly won and lost but technique is harder won, and a gift that keeps on giving. Rules are for schoolboys not ready for the real world.

Re the rules, yes for the obeyance of fools and the guideance of wise men.

Being really strong is also just so boring, styling your way through something without breaking stride when others are gurning through the same moves with bulging veins is just so much more fun.

[Jaspersharpe]

Wierdly I have a quote (about Gav?, by Gav?) stuck in my head along the lines of "I've never forgiven him for using toe-hooks in the school, and now this...".

Sadly the context of this quote entirely escapes me and I've no idea who said it about whom, and what they did that could possibly be worse than toe-hooking in the school...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6644.msg187336.html#msg187336

Sadly the photo links are dead. I think gme must have paid FD to take them down.....

I'm sure the rant you were thinking of was his disgust at being accused of toe-hooking in the school (despite the photographic evidence). 

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6644.msg187531.html#msg187531

[Stu Littlefair]

Thank you Jasper.

I can't believe Gav started this kerfuffle. Hypocrisy of the highest order.

[Nibile]

Pics back online please.

[Doylo]

Gav you toehooked in the school?? What ... How... Why?!! 

[gme]

I did not nor ever will toe hook, heel hook or knee bar at the school. The incriminating photograph may look like I am but it is down to the angle of the picture. Its of me on driller killer.

I obviously can't prove it as it's a picture and judging by me performances this week on the resurrected boards I am unlikely to ever be strong enough again to prove I can do it without the supposed hook.

[cowboyhat]

Speaking of toe hooks and Hubble:

What about Tactics Mclure and his domestically modified 5.10 whites for undiluted toe frottage,

IS THIS KOSHER?

[a dense loner]

Did he wear his 5.10 whites on his knees if the answers no then what are people talking about? Start a thread saying man wears shoes to climb and see how many people discuss it, or a thread saying taller man does crux easier. Makes perfect sense

[Jaspersharpe]

Gav - out of interest does everyone agree this is the crux of Hubble? This move, and the next are pretty much the only two I can do...

No-one's actually done Hubble with a knee bar yet. And the route does't just boil down to one move - I used to be able to quite comfortably static the undercut move, but found climbing into the position really hard.

RicH Heap used to be able to do the match static but struggled on the next crux, I was the opposite. And even if you could do both you mightn't be able to hold the terrible sloper or do the foot moves between them.

Anyone see a pattern?

The undercuts move was always harder for the tall as it's really bunched whereas the moves getting into it and the final slap are definitely going to be harder if you're a dwarf. At the time, nobody little was trying it that I knew of hence why the undercuts move was always considered the crux.

It definitely was for me. Only had a couple of goes on the route but could get to that move and could start both hands on the undercuts and go to the top but only did the match once (flagging the left leg which means you static it when you get it right / are strong enough) so felt miles away from doing it and went back to the cellar to get stronger..... 

As Andy and Ru point out, it doesn't just come down to one hard move and needs finger strength, burl, tension, technique and explosive timing. Not bad for 7 moves and this is why it's not been done by many people.

What did Ben say in TPOC? "It's having the power to link the moves". It's still true. 

[Johnny Brown]

"Throw out your knee pads today" - published in 1994 I think, so twenty years ago and clearly not a recent innovation.

[Johnny Brown]

Whilst on the subject, any votes on the crime below? Toe-hook, knee-bar, gayleg, or a combination?

[tomtom]

Your pics are not coming up JB.

[Johnny Brown]

Any better?

[tomtom]

Any better?

Perfecto.

[Jaspersharpe]

Quality!

[gme]

Top Quality.

Unfortunately, despite the Thing being a proper rag back in the VIz hay days this article was subjected to the PC cleanse and very nearly didn't make it to print.

It was originally called Faggotry but this was deemed not suitable for the general public. Hence the new word of Jessery was invented. With hindsight there seems little difference.

I also wanted Egyptians to be in there but as Nic was incapable of even walking along a path without dropping his knees he wouldn't put it in.

And that is a very gayleg style drop knee going on on Reve, but definitely not a knee bar.

[Sloper]

http://www.sendclimbing.com/products/downgrader-strap-on-kneepad

calm down.

[bigtuboflard]

This photo particularly upsets me

[Johnny Brown]

Yack. Shades, colour matched trousers and t-shirt, no left boot - a proper yankee cheesewhip. Like the kneebar though.

[bigtuboflard]

Yack. Shades, colour matched trousers and t-shirt, no left boot - a proper yankee cheesewhip. Like the kneebar though.

Indeed but see the look of amazement on his accomplices face 

If only we had the same positive outlook to knee bars in the UK