Ideally I need a few big backcountry days with lots of ascent to get my weight down ... I have put on 2-3 kg this winter which I would like to shed before the climbing season resumes.
Anyone any advice as regards sorting my head after hitting the ground the other week? Weirdly wasn't bothered by belaying (the cause) but head was full of all manner of worries - gear unstitching, rockfall, shoes coming unglued (!). I climbed like crap, too focused on hands and scared to use my feet in case I tweaked the ankle again....Strange week. Climbed like shit but feel like I learnt so much and put in far more effort than is usual.
Regarding worry after a ground fall. I think the best thing to do is accept that this is a completely normal and understandable response.
Can I come back to power club!?STG: Climb Fisheye at OlianaMTG: Indian Summer (Kilnsey) and some hard mountain trad.LTG: Big walls + hardish multipitch sport and trad.Monday: RestTuesday: 2 x 7c+ circuits into replica Fisheye crux. Completed the circuits without too much pump but felt faded and not enough power to do the crux. 5 sets of holding crux move static for about 5 secs before taking the hold, and 5 sets of climbing crux boulder problem on the minute.Wednesday: RestThursday: Rest + fly to BarcelonaFriday: Oliana. Warm up on a 7a. Climb to the top of Fisheye. Piss the crux on a link so pleased the specific training has paid off. Have a redpoint attempt and get through the crux move but then fall off a bit higher pumped! Fail to link to the very top after a short rest as I arrived at the final rest too pumped.Saturday: 7.30 am start at Oliana. The rock is cool the sun quickly becomes very hot. Leave at 10 am. Return at 3 pm, warm up on a 7a+ and then by flashing the 7c start to Humildes Pa Casa/Mind Control etc. Redpoint on Fish Eye and a new high point falling with my hand nearly on the rail that signifies the end of the steep climbing! Finish the day by onsighting a fun 7c+.Sunday: Training afternoon at Figols. 6c,7a+,7b,7b+,7c+,7b+ flash/onsight before leaving for the airport.The trip went well but annoyed not to link from the ground to the rail (8b/8b+) or from the crux to the top (8a/8a+). Back to hard training for another month now!
Worked out beta first go, then 2nd go did in overlapping 1/2's. 3rd go fell just before the good holds. Too wasted to keep trying.
Quote from: Sasquatch on March 17, 2014, 08:19:35 pmWorked out beta first go, then 2nd go did in overlapping 1/2's. 3rd go fell just before the good holds. Too wasted to keep trying.The Red River Gorge climbing experience encapsulated in 3 sentences. Great trip report 'quatch. Sounds like a good 'un.
Two weeks on the road climbing First stop was the Red! I'd never been so I was pretty excited.Overall I really couldn't have asked for a better trip, with the exception of the pulley at the end.