[marcpontin]

if you can't get strong on a board u can't get strong period!

[gme]

Krank- So climbing on steep boards hasn't worked for you! However unless you can then provide evidence that following a finger boarding/core/weights regime has worked for you and therefore proves that in some cases these methods are better than bouldering, your comment proves nothing other than you personally cant get strong.

[Krank]

hello gme, I cant provide you with any proof except to say that the strongest I have ever been was when I was doing more fingerboarding/gymnastic work than board climbing.

with weighted hangs (not lopez) I managed to easily hold #10 on a BM for 8secs with 20kgs, however I was still shit

[SA Chris]

But I was flirting with the idea of training camps held at my house. I have a spare room, so the client/climber/slave could stay here full time and basically become my property for the time of the camp. I could lock him/her in the board room when I'm at work and control the training with a camera.

When you get home they get fed relative to their performance that day; anything from full 3 course meal (lean cooking of course) to a handful of cold pasta.

[SA Chris]

hello gme, I cant provide you with any proof except to say that the strongest I have ever been was when I was doing more fingerboarding/gymnastic work than board climbing.

with weighted hangs (not lopez) I managed to easily hold #10 on a BM for 8secs with 20kgs, however I was still shit

How frequently do (did) you climb outdoors? I'm curious.

[Dolly]

Right its on.
Shark is coming round tomorrow night to my shed/board.
I'll get the Barry White ready

[SA Chris]

Fresh batteries in the glitterball!

[Krank]

How frequently do (did) you climb outdoors? I'm curious.

I moved to leek to climb and for about 3 years I was climbing 3-4 times a week for an hour or so before work, and then 3-5 times a week after work and then all day sat and sun, I couldn't physically have climbed any more unless I quit my job.

I also took into account recovery, so if I had been training I would be doing easy solo's of no hands slab padding.

when I was climbing a lot I also had some coaching with Tom Randall, I asked him what he thought my weak points were and he told my finger strength was my weakest physical aspect, which surprised me.

[webbo]

at least he didn't say your weakness is that your shit.

[Krank]

small mercies I guess

[cheque]

Right its on.
Shark is coming round tomorrow night to my shed/board.

This needs to be turned into an interactive UKB event- Shark trains with GoPro on head (secured by tie) and the video is streamed live to this thread. Forum members offer feedback /instructions/ encouragement/ heckling which Dolly reads out off the screen.

 

Could be continued 24/7 Trueman Show-style 'til Shark sends Oak/ collapses from exhaustion/ quits climbing.

[gme]

So when you were at your strongest you were climbing as much as you possibly could then spent some EXTRA time doing some fingerboarding.

Isn't that what i said?

[SA Chris]

via twitter feed

#yousuckatundercuts
#illpunchyourface

[SA Chris]

I moved to leek to climb and for about 3 years I was climbing 3-4 times a week for an hour or so before work, and then 3-5 times a week after work and then all day sat and sun, I couldn't physically have climbed any more unless I quit my job.

I also took into account recovery, so if I had been training I would be doing easy solo's of no hands slab padding.

when I was climbing a lot I also had some coaching with Tom Randall, I asked him what he thought my weak points were and he told my finger strength was my weakest physical aspect, which surprised me.

Maybe living in Leek kept you in a perpetual state of depression Thanks for response.

[Krank]

So when you were at your strongest you were climbing as much as you possibly could then spent some EXTRA time doing some fingerboarding.

Isn't that what i said?

well the climbing was mainly plodding about on grit trad/soloing, not climbing hard things to improve finger strength, my strength work consisted of warming up on the board then FBing and gymnastic stuff and doing this got me to the the strongest I have been. I guess strength vs mileage is a different topic.

Obviously if you climb a lot you get good at climbing, but I don't think it gets you strong in the same way as board climbing/fbing/campusing does and I noticed this when I tried to pull hard when bouldering.

I wasn't trying to say you are wrong, most people get strong on a board, I was just pointing out that it didn't seem to work for me and maybe it wont work for other people. 

Maybe living in Leek kept you in a perpetual state of depression Thanks for response.

the extra head does add a little weight

[Sasquatch]

I truly believe Dead-hanging, weights, core etc are all ONLY supplementary training methods that are their to add to the standard bouldering sessions (outside or in) that you need to get strong.  A lot of people, myself included, see that the idea of a 45 min deadhanging session fits in well with there lifestyles so jumps on the bandwagon thinking that you can replace a session of bouldering with them, this is just not true.

CWP, Dan, Ned and Malc (the only climber i know from the 90s who did a lot of hanging) etc. didn't get strong from dead-hanging they got strong from steep powerful bouldering topped up with some deadhanging and core before or afterwards. If you dont have the time to do it all do the bouldering and forget the rest.

If you want to get stronger do steep straight on bouldering 3-10 moves on as small holds as you can pull on. Simple as that.

Science is all well and good but people are just forgetting the basics.

I  humbly disagree as well.  I did this for my first 10 years and managed a couple of 7C+'s.  I climbed a ton, had access to twofull gyms, boulder walls at every angle. Could set whatever I wnated.  Was young and no family/job/etc. to get in the way of getting outside.  Now 10 years later after a few years more or less off climbing, I get back into it with a structured training plan and I jump to 8A+ at 36?  I assure you it wasn't from climbing on a steep board, as the only climbing related things I was doing were deadhanging 2 times a week and climbing 1 day. 

Do I think this is for everyone-NO.  For Shark, maybe.  I came into it in a similar position to Shark.  Climbing relatively hard for my relative strength.   I had climbed for MANY years and had a pretty good level of technique and experience, but had weak fingers. So doing deadhanging was working a specific weakness for me.  Shark has been working that weakness and seen some progress, but not enough to justify blindly continuing to follow it withot testing some other waters. 

[a dense loner]

I can't comment on Malcolm since I've no idea but cwp, dan, and Ned got strong from training 3x a day like maniacs, Their sessions included rings, dead hanging, training on steep boards and climbing. Shark can't train like these people. They have no commitments, they can go on perpetual trips when they're not training. Most importantly they're still young.

[fried]

Right its on.
Shark is coming round tomorrow night to my shed/board.

This needs to be turned into an interactive UKB event- Shark trains with GoPro on head (secured by tie) and the video is streamed live to this thread. Forum members offer feedback /instructions/ encouragement/ heckling which Dolly reads out off the screen.

 

Could be continued 24/7 Trueman Show-style 'til Shark sends Oak/ collapses from exhaustion/ quits climbing.

Be good if it was from Nibs dungeon.

[gme]

Dense. I wasn't saying that rings dead hanging etc are not brilliant forms of excersise or that dan ned etc don't do them. What I am saying is that if you have not got the time that they have then drop the extras and focus on the bouldering.

And whilst I do not know this as a fact I would guess that all of them got strong from structured bouldering on boards and outside before they started with all the other stuff..

In my opinion If you have limited time the climbing needs to come first.

[Sasquatch]

In my opinion If you have limited time the climbing needs to come first.

I think this is entirely relative to your personal goals, abilities and background. 

[petejh]

I wasn't trying to say you are wrong, most people get strong on a board, I was just pointing out that it didn't seem to work for me and maybe it wont work for other people. 

Maybe you're a non-responder to hypertophy stimulus... http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/health-17177251
Anyone else see the horizon programme last year about aerobic responders and non-responders? Pretty cool. The genetic test they used is available commercially from XE Genomics. It currently only tests for aerobic fitness but there's talk of one in the future which can test for strength. I ended up taking the test out of interest to see where I was on the scale from non to high responder for aerobic fitness.... they lost my blood sample and I lost £65, twats.

Seems intuitive to think that if we're all genetically dispositioned to respond differently to aerobic stress then we might also react uniquely to stimulus for strength gains.

[kingholmesy]

Right its on.
Shark is coming round tomorrow night to my shed/board.

This needs to be turned into an interactive UKB event- Shark trains with GoPro on head (secured by tie) and the video is streamed live to this thread. Forum members offer feedback /instructions/ encouragement/ heckling which Dolly reads out off the screen.

 

Could be continued 24/7 Trueman Show-style 'til Shark sends Oak/ collapses from exhaustion/ quits climbing.

Which of those options do you think is most likely to occur first?  I'm tempted to run a book ...

[mrjonathanr]

I wasn't trying to say you are wrong, most people get strong on a board, I was just pointing out that it didn't seem to work for me and maybe it wont work for other people. 

That's because every problem you did on the board was 6B 

[lagerstarfish]

Right its on.
Shark is coming round tomorrow night to my shed/board.
I'll get the Barry White ready

I trust that you'll be re-naming the holds and problems in positive and supportive terms

maybe "hard, but not too hard for Shark" or "fit fo' th'Oak" or "easy, but good training circuit" ?

just make sure he doesn't fall into the trap of bouldering for fun

[Nibile]

just make sure he doesn't fall into the trap of bouldering for fun

If he comes to my camp that will never happen. It will be bouldering for survival.