[shark]

whereas what you should do is start trying problems that are just a few moves long and actually go upwards.  You might not enjoy it  (then again maybe you'll surprise yourself?) but having tried other approaches maybe it's time to stop twisting folks advice to suit what you'd rather hear/do and actually go try some hard moves.

I did over the summer particularly the start of Perverse Reverse footless, Rattle and Hump start and Kudos none of which I managed.

Have you tried the eatswood Traverse?. The moves are hard. For me.

[petejh]

Just a thought but if you're a bit fragile in the lower back, having enough pads to double-up or getting an expensive big thick pad might make you more comfortable with pushing yourself/falling off lots while bouldering. Perhaps a factor why you gravitate towards traverses more than up probs?

[nai]

As you were then.

Not tried ET, never been tempted due to the distance down there and knowing I'd struggle on a link due to how sustained it is, but folk saying how good it is recently have tempered my interest.

[shark]

As you were then.

Not tried ET, never been tempted due to the distance down there and knowing I'd struggle on a link due to how sustained it is, but folk saying how good it is recently have tempered my interest.

Its about 35mins from my house in Broomhill. You take the ring road around Chesterfield and pick up the Matlock Road.

Probably shouldnt be publicising it seeing as its banned and you are almost certain to be shot by the farmer and fed to his dogs.

[abarro81]

Rubicon is often dry in winter, as are Anston and Roche Abbey.

[shark]

Just a thought but if you're a bit fragile in the lower back, having enough pads to double-up or getting an expensive big thick pad might make you more comfortable with pushing yourself/falling off lots while bouldering. Perhaps a factor why you gravitate towards traverses more than up probs?

I have nothing like the severity of your back problems - it doesnt hurt when i jump off. In the past when Ive climbed or trained lots by back has gone and Ive had to see the physio to get it sorted.

I've always liked traverses. When I started climbing traversing the Terrace Wall in Nottingham was my only real training. Weedkiller and eatswood are unquestionably ace problems and are more route like which is where my heart is. Also I can climb at least a grade harder on traverses and dont get shut down so much and end up not feeling like Ive done anything at the end of a session which is how I usually feel when trying hard bloc problems.

[shark]

Rubicon is often dry in winter, as are Anston and Roche Abbey.

Yep. Just need to take the blinkers off. 

[abarro81]

end up not feeling like Ive done anything at the end of a session which is how I usually feel when trying hard bloc problems.

Can always top up with some ancap or repeaters if you don't feel worked, especially when the days are short at this time of year. Also, maybe do more problems you can do in a session or two so you feel like you've done a bit more? Or even have days where you do multiple new problems in one session 

[SA Chris]

Also I can climb at least a grade harder on traverses and dont get shut down so much and end up not feeling like Ive done anything at the end of a session which is how I usually feel when trying hard bloc problems.

Surely, traverses are a strength then, and should thus be avoided? Let the body and the ego take a hit now and again for long term gains. There's so much quality bouldering in the peak to choose from you can always drop down a grade or two, find something quality that's not playing to your strengths but you can get up (not get across!) so you can work hard at doing it and still walk away with a satisfying tick at the end of the day, even if it's not at your "maximum" grade.

My 5p worth.

Otherwise I genuinely salute your tenacity in sticking with it on a multi year seige when many lessers (like me) would have chucked it in long ago.

edit - sort of what he said (ish) please don't punch me.

[John Gillott]

Rubicon is often dry in winter, as are Anston and Roche Abbey.

Yep. Just need to take the blinkers off.

Shark,

I've found the perfect compromise / winter target on grit, to allow you to grade chase (bouldering), traverse (cos you like it and it's good for grade chasing in your case), AND train effectively for The Oak (the up bit at the end of the traverse is just the kind of steep and powerful stuff you need):

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=70775

[ianv]

I've always liked traverses.

You could bag off the oak and start working a girdle of the lower tier. 

[shark]

I've always liked traverses.

You could bag off the oak and start working a girdle of the lower tier. 

The Oak has an amazing traverse

[Nibile]

You can always come and stay at my place: I offer you a strict diet of liver, red wine, underclings, repeated problems and feet on campusing.
I'm serious.

[ianv]

The Oak has an amazing traverse

Trouble is, you never manage to get to it 

[Nibile]

Ouch.

[gme]

I truly believe Dead-hanging, weights, core etc are all ONLY supplementary training methods that are their to add to the standard bouldering sessions (outside or in) that you need to get strong.  A lot of people, myself included, see that the idea of a 45 min deadhanging session fits in well with there lifestyles so jumps on the bandwagon thinking that you can replace a session of bouldering with them, this is just not true.

CWP, Dan, Ned and Malc (the only climber i know from the 90s who did a lot of hanging) etc. didn't get strong from dead-hanging they got strong from steep powerful bouldering topped up with some deadhanging and core before or afterwards. If you dont have the time to do it all do the bouldering and forget the rest.

If you want to get stronger do steep straight on bouldering 3-10 moves on as small holds as you can pull on. Simple as that.

Science is all well and good but people are just forgetting the basics.

[SA Chris]

You can always come and stay at my place: I offer you a strict diet of liver, red wine, underclings, repeated problems and feet on campusing.
I'm serious.

Italian training camps - a gap in the market there.

[account_inactive]

I truly believe Dead-hanging, weights, core etc are all ONLY supplementary training methods that are their to add to the standard bouldering sessions (outside or in) that you need to get strong.  A lot of people, myself included, see that the idea of a 45 min deadhanging session fits in well with there lifestyles so jumps on the bandwagon thinking that you can replace a session of bouldering with them, this is just not true.

CWP, Dan, Ned and Malc (the only climber i know from the 90s who did a lot of hanging) etc. didn't get strong from dead-hanging they got strong from steep powerful bouldering topped up with some deadhanging and core before or afterwards. If you dont have the time to do it all do the bouldering and forget the rest.

If you want to get stronger do steep straight on bouldering 3-10 moves on as small holds as you can pull on. Simple as that.

Science is all well and good but people are just forgetting the basics.

A-fucking-men

[John Gillott]

You can always come and stay at my place: I offer you a strict diet of liver, red wine, underclings, repeated problems and feet on campusing.
I'm serious.

Italian training camps - a gap in the market there.

What's the out of competition drug testing regime like in Italy? Arnie didn't get where he is today....

[Nibile]

No idea. Sorry.
But I was flirting with the idea of training camps held at my house. I have a spare room, so the client/climber/slave could stay here full time and basically become my property for the time of the camp. I could lock him/her in the board room when I'm at work and control the training with a camera.
Then I would simply release the beast in a wood full of boulders and watch the carnage.

[Krank]

If you want to get stronger do steep straight on bouldering 3-10 moves on as small holds as you can pull on. Simple as that.

Science is all well and good but people are just forgetting the basics.

I have done this for 5 years and I am still shit (not solid at 7A) so it wont always work, even if it works for most.

[nai]

I have done this for 5 years and I am still shit (not solid at 7A)

Ahem, e.g.)

[Krank]

 
that's font, climbing in font is easy, on the grit I'm shit, and on lime I'm an embarrassment

[nai]

Don't make me bring more evidence to the table... (btw, you made great videos, do you not bother any longer or host/post them elsewhere?)

[Krank]

my vids were all of my best ascents in 7 years worth of climbing and I climbed a lot, more than anyone I know or have met, honestly I am nowhere near where I should be compared to the amount of training on a board I have done which is evident if you see the progression of the people I train with compared to my own.

I just meant that climbing on a board is not always the solution to getting strong for everyone.