But I was flirting with the idea of training camps held at my house. I have a spare room, so the client/climber/slave could stay here full time and basically become my property for the time of the camp. I could lock him/her in the board room when I'm at work and control the training with a camera.
hello gme, I cant provide you with any proof except to say that the strongest I have ever been was when I was doing more fingerboarding/gymnastic work than board climbing. with weighted hangs (not lopez) I managed to easily hold #10 on a BM for 8secs with 20kgs, however I was still shit
How frequently do (did) you climb outdoors? I'm curious.
Right its on. Shark is coming round tomorrow night to my shed/board.
I moved to leek to climb and for about 3 years I was climbing 3-4 times a week for an hour or so before work, and then 3-5 times a week after work and then all day sat and sun, I couldn't physically have climbed any more unless I quit my job.I also took into account recovery, so if I had been training I would be doing easy solo's of no hands slab padding.when I was climbing a lot I also had some coaching with Tom Randall, I asked him what he thought my weak points were and he told my finger strength was my weakest physical aspect, which surprised me.
So when you were at your strongest you were climbing as much as you possibly could then spent some EXTRA time doing some fingerboarding.Isn't that what i said?
Maybe living in Leek kept you in a perpetual state of depression Thanks for response.
I truly believe Dead-hanging, weights, core etc are all ONLY supplementary training methods that are their to add to the standard bouldering sessions (outside or in) that you need to get strong. A lot of people, myself included, see that the idea of a 45 min deadhanging session fits in well with there lifestyles so jumps on the bandwagon thinking that you can replace a session of bouldering with them, this is just not true.CWP, Dan, Ned and Malc (the only climber i know from the 90s who did a lot of hanging) etc. didn't get strong from dead-hanging they got strong from steep powerful bouldering topped up with some deadhanging and core before or afterwards. If you dont have the time to do it all do the bouldering and forget the rest.If you want to get stronger do steep straight on bouldering 3-10 moves on as small holds as you can pull on. Simple as that. Science is all well and good but people are just forgetting the basics.
Quote from: Dolly on December 17, 2013, 03:23:06 pmRight its on. Shark is coming round tomorrow night to my shed/board. This needs to be turned into an interactive UKB event- Shark trains with GoPro on head (secured by tie) and the video is streamed live to this thread. Forum members offer feedback /instructions/ encouragement/ heckling which Dolly reads out off the screen. Could be continued 24/7 Trueman Show-style 'til Shark sends Oak/ collapses from exhaustion/ quits climbing.
In my opinion If you have limited time the climbing needs to come first.
I wasn't trying to say you are wrong, most people get strong on a board, I was just pointing out that it didn't seem to work for me and maybe it wont work for other people.
Right its on. Shark is coming round tomorrow night to my shed/board. I'll get the Barry White ready
just make sure he doesn't fall into the trap of bouldering for fun