Got ill towards the end of last week most probably due to over training, going to take it easy this week.Posted a thread about being powered out on indoor routes here:http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23330.0Agreeing with what people are saying I reckon it's to do with over training/lack of rest. Back to back days at the gym in work are draining me of life...Monday: Lunch Session:12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (L&R 12.6kg)Weighted Deadhangs (3 finger open hand on bottom rock ring pocket):Progressive Set:5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secsMain Set:12.5kgSet 1 - 6secs, Set 2 - 7secs, Set 3 - 8secs3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys (15kg)3 x 10 Leg RaisesTuesday: Lunch Session:12 Widegrip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (L&R 12.5kg)6 x 10 Off-Set Pull Ups3 x 10 Good Mornings (23kg)3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys (15kg)Pulled my back somehow back...Wednesday: Lunch Session:12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (L&R 12.5kg)3 x 10 Dumbell Flys (12.5kg)3 x 10 Tricep Kickbacks (12.5kg)3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises3 x 10 Dumbbell Bentover Rows (17.5kg)Thursday: Boardroom Indoor Routes:Warmup - 6a and 6a+Failed on 6c twiceFailed on another 6c ~10 timesFailed on a 6b+Then took 3 goes to repeat the 6c on the Piscobloc wall.Friday: RestSaturday: First time checking out the bouldering at Crafnant. Amazing place with amazing boulders but the whole place was wet through...Only one problem was dry-ish. a 6A+/B called "Breakaway". The name said it all as we pulled about 10 quartzy holds off between us. Worked out the sitter which is 6C/+ and then my mate pulled one of the crucial holds off the stand so I didn't get the sitter ticked. Went to the pub for lunch instead...Sunday: Rest/ill
That sure is a lot of training! I'd usually climb a few grades above 6c down the wall, however if I'd done all those weights I'm not sure I'd be able to climb a flight of stairs by the end of the week! You gotta allow some recovery for maximum gains otherwise end up burnt out.
I'll not do a run down of last week but instead I did a baseline session on the BM on SundayCurrent best efforts:One armer* (L and R) on deep biodoigt's on middle row (can fairly comfortably dead hang for 10secs)One armer* (R only) on shallower biodoigt's on middle row (can just about dead hang for 10secs)Brief dead hang (L) on shallower biodoigt's on middle rowVery very brief dead hang (L only) on slopey mono's and first joint mono'sProbably should be able to match the mono hanging action on my R but have a bit of a forearm strain which doesn't massively affect my grip on multi-finger holds but feels 'wrong' on mono's, frustrating.
Quote from: Boredboy on December 11, 2013, 10:01:57 pm That sure is a lot of training! I'd usually climb a few grades above 6c down the wall, however if I'd done all those weights I'm not sure I'd be able to climb a flight of stairs by the end of the week! You gotta allow some recovery for maximum gains otherwise end up burnt out.Haha, yeah, you're right. I was completely burnt out by the end of last week (After having about 8 weeks of the same training week volume) and I got ill. This week i've done nothing from Mon - Wed and tonight i'm going to the wall. Although i've been recovering from being ill I'm sure the rest has done good.
Quote from: Luke Owens on December 12, 2013, 08:54:08 amQuote from: Boredboy on December 11, 2013, 10:01:57 pm That sure is a lot of training! I'd usually climb a few grades above 6c down the wall, however if I'd done all those weights I'm not sure I'd be able to climb a flight of stairs by the end of the week! You gotta allow some recovery for maximum gains otherwise end up burnt out.Haha, yeah, you're right. I was completely burnt out by the end of last week (After having about 8 weeks of the same training week volume) and I got ill. This week i've done nothing from Mon - Wed and tonight i'm going to the wall. Although i've been recovering from being ill I'm sure the rest has done good.A good few years ago I would often overtrain in the way you described and found myself burning out and hitting performance plateau's pretty quickly. As a rule of thumb these days if I'm training power I try to finish fresh in a session, keep any thrashing around on boulders when tired to a minimum and have a good 48hrs break between sessions. The same goes for an-cap or pe or whatever. Endurance I'd prob do a 2 days together at a push but prob def not mix that up with power and weights on back to back days.
I resign.
A good few years ago I would often overtrain in the way you described and found myself burning out and hitting performance plateau's pretty quickly. As a rule of thumb these days if I'm training power I try to finish fresh in a session, keep any thrashing around on boulders when tired to a minimum and have a good 48hrs break between sessions. The same goes for an-cap or pe or whatever. Endurance I'd prob do a 2 days together at a push but prob def not mix that up with power and weights on back to back days. An average week for me is:Sun: RestMon: Rest or core or minimalist volume finger board max efforts 30-40 mins 5 min rests.Tue: Boulder / 45deg board mix 2hrs max efforts 5-10 mins restsWed:RestThurs: Rest or core 30 minsFri: Crag boulderingSat: Crag or rest.Seem to getting a steady improvement in power. Not training when got a cold etc. No weights apart from weighted dead hangs. Built up gradually over 3-6 months. The key for me definitely seems to be not training to exhaustion or when to tired and keeping it as specific as possible.
Quote from: shark on December 12, 2013, 08:55:30 am I resign.What have I done wrong Shark?
Power club question. I feel a bit under the weather, sore throat, headache etc. I did about 10-12 easy routes last night, might do a core sess at the gym later. Intend to do nothing tomorrow and illness permitting get back on eatswood Traverse on SundaySo...do I beastmake this lunchtime for a bit ?Not interested in long term ATM, just should I leave it to get better for Sunday ?
So...do I beastmake this lunchtime for a bit ?
Thanks for the repliesI'm too tired and aching to do anything. I'm going to study the inside of my eyelids from the office sofa for a bit
I would rest today and do v. short session tomorrow - basically just warm up to max strength then stop. This shit is quite individual though. I find double rest days leave me lacking snap but if the 2nd day involves, e.g. 20-30min doing some 1armers and deadhangs then I'm 'on it like a car bonnet' the day after. I heard Jerry used to do the same with a 30min campus session on 2nd 'rest' day (which is where I got the idea from). Don't do anything with big muscles involved if you're feeling ill IMO.