[Fiend]

The Crack - E1 5c-ish so I guess that's V2  :twisted: Flashed it although the cutloose on a slanting rotary fist-jam at the start was a bit of a shocker.

Errrr that's about all I can do in the whole bloody rock  :evil:

[Pantontino]

Katz told me he was taking the V12 tick for SC.

CJD has been close on the left hand project.

I don't what Fiend means by V2 for the crack - I reckon V4 is fair. I was quite shocked how polished it had become, last time I was there.

I would agree with JonP on the grades he mentioned (apart from Pinch which I have no knowledge of). Although the direct on the crack is surely V5 if you do the low start described in the guide?

[Nigel]

Cheers Si. The Crack V4 seems widely accepted, Direct gets V5 stand up and V6 low start in the present guide.

Good on the Katz, he's the man and I ain't gonna argue! It was just a guess that CJD would be suited to that project from the stuff I've seen in Wales, always one step ahead though. Hope he bags it. Haway the lads!

[Fiend]

I don't what Fiend means by V2 for the crack - I reckon V4 is fair. I was quite shocked how polished it had become, last time I was there.

I mean it's piss compared to, say, Seren Groove....like piss as in twice as easy or something. Like I flashed TC without a mat when I was even more of an inept bouldering newbie....and now I'm doing more V4s and finding them actually rather hard even with loads more experience etc.

I had a brief look at the Crack direct but that seemed rather hard.

[Greg C]

Done any of the harder problems Fiend? Man o' your calibre should be pull'n the stone down  

By the way I reckon one of the V4's I did at Porth Ygo is more like V3/4  

[tc]

Couple of idle thoughts then:
The Crack V4
On the Rebound V7
Inaudible Vaudeville V9
Frank V10
Picnic Sarcastic SS V8
Powerpinch V7 (V8 without LH hold)
Ears of Perception V8
The Bowels V9
Bowels+Ears link V10/V11? (I keep falling off the last couple of moves on this, so not 100% qualified to grade it really)
Can't comment on the ones I've not done.

Hope this helps

[Nigel]

A ha, the man!

Inaudible Vaudeville - toe hook 'in' for V9 or not?

Impropa Opera - any gen on the changing face of the breaking hold, present grade etc.?

[tc]

Too kind, but "the Man" of the Cobble is either Birkett, Hock or Al Wilson - I was only allocated my personal parking place a couple of years ago.
Inaudible - the method I was shown was Hock's method (left foot high in crack and then a leg-wrenching drop-knee off this - book your physio appointment well in advance!). Felt like V9 to catch the hold from this position and hold the swing.
Improper sit start seems to shed holds regularly. Done at V11 by Ian Bitcon and repeated by Vickers and Andy Brown I think. The standing start goes at V8, if I remember correctly (it's been a while).

[Nigel]

Ah well, I'm sure you've done enough there to warrant some kind of award!

If you've got Stick It then watch Malcolm do Inaudible with the toe hook in the crack. I did it like this, when it stays in then obviously there's no swing and it brings it down to V8. Although the first time I went I did the first move by pulling on off the RH crimp and LH pocket with LF pasted low down and slapping for the hold, maybe V9 this way I agree.  

Does Impropa SS start directly below Impropa on low undercut sidepulls and go straight up to the "large hold" then? Definately looked hard. The stand up I thought was solid V8+, definately harder than Power Pinch and Inaudible.

[tc]

Erm...dunno. Should have asked me back in September before my year off bouldering! I'm sure someone has the beta, though.

[clm]

dont needle sports sell a topo (i dont know if this is the frcc one).  would thee be treading on any (webbed) lakes toes if you publish a topo?? just a thought.

[clm]

OI DENSE. just read page two. you offered to prostate yourself in front of these boys :shock: . nnow bearing in mind that a prostate is a gland which decides if piss or jizz comes out yer knob i feel this statement could be misinterpreted.  so which is it??? golden shower or pearl necklace :?

[a dense loner]

bad time for dyslexia to kick in

[dave]

yo denise, you aught join the DNA......
.
.
.
.wait for it
.
.
.
.
.
....National Dyslexic Association

hell yeah

[tc]

By the way, the Bowels+Ears link, "Into the Light" is one of the best problems on the Stone. 16 moves in all, full body pump contorsions on the first section, then great upside down stretchy moves through the Ears. Utter class. Still unrepeated?
Left of the start of the Bowels is a ramp feature: V8 and 'done years ago by the Abraham Brothers'. And by Moffat and Kirton, I think.
All the moves on the ladder face traverse have been done by various strong youths but the link has yet to be completed as far as I know.

[Stu Littlefair]

whilst we've got a captive bowderstone expert, where is steve's new problem? and, perchance, where does the project go?

[Nigel]

Stu, Dunning's problem starts along the bowels then leans backwards to cut across the hanging prow of Ears of Perception horizontally, rather than along its length as for Ears. Quite hard to explain but obvious when you're there!

The other project is on the bowels side of the boulder but at the other end. Near horizontal 16ft roof, three quite good holds, miles between them! BURLY  :shock:

TC; Cheers for filling us in on the thing left of the bowels, was going to ask you about that! Has the thing left again been done? Probably by the Abrahams I suppose!

You're on the money about Into the Light, possibly the wierdest moves in the history of the world and all the better for it. Knee bars, toe hooks, foot cams, undercuts, slopers, crimps, wild cut loose, blimey   :clapclap:
I was hoping to do it yesterday but it pissed it down relentlessly  :roll:

[Nigel]

CLM, Needlesports will photocopy you a topo from the FRCC guide for free as far as I am aware. So no we wouldn't be treading on anyone's toes, unless of course someone thinks that a free Bowderstone topo (that makes sense) would undermine sales of the FRCC select and Borrowdale guides  :?

[Stu Littlefair]

Cheers Nige!

Chances are I'm going to be in the Lakes this weekend, and I'm quite keen to check out the old bowderstone. Only been there once 10 years ago....

Is there any chance someone could scan in a topo and mail it to me?

[Ste]

Hey Stu,
Im off up to the lakes this weekend give me a bell and I will show you round the stone if im in that area. PLanning on going up to Hells Wall or Reecastle on Sunday depending upon the weather.
Steve...

[dave]

BUMP

I feel now i've been there i must tick my oar in.....so here goes.

the crack - semeed about 5
crack direct from standing 6a
Picnic Sarc 7a+
Picnic Sarc ss 7b (excellent problem)
Power Pinch pretty straightforward 7a+/7b. those stick-it boys were havving a giraffe with 7b+!

and now for ths stuff i didn't do:

Impropa opera - i dont see how that can be V8 - its clearly about 3 grades harder than PPinch or PSsitting. I imagine its top end 7b+ or even low 7c.

Inaudable.... i only had one stab with the toe-hook and tickled the hold then forget about it, so i imagine 7a+ for that way. the straight-up slap off the crimp and tiny pocket is probably font b+.

good crag.

[Doylo]

i've changed my mind the bowder is cool, i'd say Inaudible the slap way is v8, one hard move. Got spanked on Impropa, hard v8+? Power pinch proper way v8. Shamoone.

[dobbin]

The bowderstone is a fantastic place, board esque climbing on pinchy slopy death holds. Its all good. What problem is this?

[Doylo]

picnic sarcastic

[Nigel]

Ha ha! I knew people would come round once they'd topped out a few problems! Thanks for the grade beta Davey and Doyley, I will put it into my big grade mincing machine for when the topo comes out. Broadly agrees with what I thought when I could actually do the problems a couple of weeks ago!

Well done to anyone who managed the first move on Impropa which is the best move on the stone, closely followed by the first move of Inaudible Vaudeville eliminate.  :

Anyone else got an opinion?