[Pantontino]

Only that the FRCC topo is seriously flawed. I hadn't actually tried to follow it until yesterday (on my last recent visit I just did stuff I knew from back in my youth). I found it so confusing, that in the end I just sacked it off.

A number of the 'squiggles' on the main face appear to bear little relation to either the shape or position of the holds they are supposed to represent.

Also the grades are inconsistent, or occasionally just plain wierd (eg Problem 3 (V6 eliminate) is far harder - IMO - than On the Rebound, or Coming Up for Air. Why is the SDS to PS given V7, but the stand up gets V8+?). Most of the grade assessments that I heard on Sunday were at odds with the guide.

At the end of the session I wanted to do the obvious non eliminate diagonal sit down link into the Rib. I looked in the book for a description, but none of it seemed to match the line. So I just put the book away and climbed the easiest line (from an obvious sds below the low traverse ledge), which was great.

This place needs more consensus to sort the grades out and a proper photo topo.

[squeek]

Only that the FRCC topo is seriously flawed.

No jokes!  Trying to work out where anything went, especially on the right near the Rib, seemed to be the hardest problem there, i didn't see anyone get close!  Too many random squiggles.

At the end of the session I wanted to do the obvious non eliminate diagonal sit down link into the Rib.

That looked really good, couldn't link it, but did it from stand up, and got the rib from sit start.

This place needs more consensus to sort the grades out and a proper photo topo.

yorkshiregrit-esk problem voting and comments might be useful for this?

[Fingers of a Martyr]

the frcc topo is hell. the grades are very inconsistent and its almost impossible to follow. also several problems aren't even in it. Spring chicken is one of the best on the stone. me and me mate were there for the first time a few months ago and didn't have a clue were anything went or how to do it :roll: . until steve dunning turned up    and cruised his way up a couple of problems. inspiring stuff. :D

as for grades i'd say
hard 7b for ps ss
7b for power pinch
hard 7b+ for impropa opera
7c for spring chicken and blood sucker

[tc]

You went to the Cobble and didn't call me? And here I am, all equipped with a weight belt,  trying to get fit for a pre-50 comeback. Shame on you Mr Panton!  :wink:

[dave]

7c for spring chicken and blood sucker

I take it thats for SF off the slopey dish thing rather than the crimp.

where does blooksucker go? didn't know about ti when i was there but watched stick-it last nite and in retrospect can place it. does it finihs in impropa or summert? eliminate?

[Bonjoy]

BO! to the stone :D .
 Powerpinch hardway 7a+/7b
 Inaudible sans toe in crack solid 7b+
 Picnic sarcastic softish7a+
 Improper Opera (didn't do last move so can't fully comment) 7c

 Will certainly go back and have another session when not wreck from beer, uphill slog and big-bee session.
 BTW give me a shout Nige any time you're up for a guided tour round some peak obscuria.

[Si O'Conor]

...

[Pantontino]

I'm sorry Tim, but it was a real last minute decision.

I thought you were having a year off or something?

[Nigel]

Yes the guide is pants that's why this thread is here, to help sort things out on grades/quality/lines for a new topo. This will be a photo topo describing only the obvious independent lines and traverse links. Most of the FRCC topo consists of very overgraded eliminates which will be done away with. Luckily for you Dave this will mean that Bloodsucker will no longer exist as it is a pointless eliminate off the most hideous hold in the world (basically Power Pinch but sharp mono RH instead of the RH pinch/sidepull). To ease your undoubtably troubled mind the "Bloodsucker" on Stick It is actually the Power Pinch-Grand Opera link (GO is the LH finish to Impropa after doing the first move), although Smith does use the Bloodsucker mono. Sicko. Unfortunately for everyone else I'm going to clean the lip jug above Power Pinch and this is where it'll end instead of the pocket, so I guess you'll have to all come back to refresh your ticks eh    

Blondie, you seem to have been swayed on the grade of PS sitter! Can you tell me what "your" Spring Chicken does? I realise that its eliminate, but I'd like to know anyway.

Jon I'll definately be in touch next time I'm down there to get the knowledge, cheers. My number is 07906776174, could you text me yours? Give us a call if you're up this way again.

[tc]

.

I thought you were having a year off or something?

Aye it was going to be a full 12 months but I started getting serious mental health problems last week and had to get a fix a coupla months early. (Actually, I started getting serious mental health problems a lot earlier than last week, come to think about it  :evil: )

[Fingers of a Martyr]

basically sit start on the low right hand jug on the arete bit, up to crimp with left big move for poor sloper next to flat jug, get flat jug with left and match. i haven't done but its pretty damn hard. been out  a bit more since trying it (ps ss) and accept the grade as benchmark 7b. i think its that not one move is way hard but on the other none of them are easy. lol. no power endurance in the old fingers.

[Nigel]

That particular flavour of "Spring Chicken" I think is 7a+. Right heel on by your RH and you can do it static. A few people did it on Sunday and I think this was the consensus. Going straight up to the slopey ledge with your right hand is harder again, and doing it to here off the shit left hand sloper is probably 7c.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

sorry i'm lost now :roll:  only been twice so don't no it that well. basically i was doing what smith does on stick it and it got 7c on that. u stopped replyin on the lets get contoversial thread? wos it something i said
(well wrote)?

[dave]

i wouldn't pay too much attention to stick-it grades....otherwise i'd be having 7b+ for power pinch, 7c for the storm, 7b+ for deliverance, 8a for jason's roof, 7b+ for ABW, etc etc etc.

[Nigel]

No it was because I went away for the weekend! I'll re-read it and reply in a minute.

The holds which Smith uses on Stick It can be done static at 7a+ by putting your right heel on by your right hand. His slap way is probably 7b but then you're getting into the murky realms of giving grades to eliminate moves on eliminate holds!

[Fingers of a Martyr]

ok cheerz i'll try it like next time i go. u seem to no the lakes well. in your opinion where would u say is the best outdoor bouldering in the lakes to be found. gonna try and get out this weekend possibly and there's too many places to choose from. anything with v8 or higher preferably.

p.s i've sampled the bowderstone, st bees and gouther crag so far.

[samJ]

Just had to post and say went to look at the big rock yesterday. Unfortunately was in 'walker' mode (or fortunately, as I know I couldn't have dun nuthin'). Did hang off something in big boots with a  rucksack on me back going 'I'll never get up here' (I was right too). Whoever the guy with the blonde hair and the prana t-shirt was - how the hell do you climb with so many people watching!

[Nigel]

This topo is very near completion, so get any further comments on grades, history etc. in now!

Its a very clear photo topo of all the main natural lines, the lines drawn on the topo match where the problems go, and all the grades are correct (well, nigh on. Much better compared to the FRCC topo). But most importantly the brief history scotches the bollocks that the Bowderstone came on a fucking glacier from Scotland. Yeah, chinny reckon  :oldgit:

[Greg C]

Well seen as its nearly finished I thought I'd wet your appetite and give you a sneak preview of the new LakesBloc Bowderstone guide. The finished article should be ready in the next day or two...

http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/sei/s/1284/f59.pdf



Yes we know there's a font error on the last number  :roll:

[squeek]

Nice one.  I'll be making another visit next time I'm in the lakes I think.

[Bonjoy]

Looking good! Is 15 not called Spring Chicken or is that something else?

[jonP]

Looks really good.

Is the traverse from the base of The Crack to finish up 15 or 16 in the final version?  Can't remember what it's called, but it's a really good problem.

[Greg C]

In reply to Bonjoy:
The line which 15 follows does consist of Spring Chicken and Neil did include it as this name originally. Although we decided, as the original idea was to not really include the proper eliminate lines we opted just to grade such lines for the easiest method of resistance.

Make sense  :?

[Nigel]

15 was Spring Chicken, but it has since been changed to Un-named on the belief that SC was a name given to an eliminate in that area and we didn't want to be "downgrading" it or reassigning names onto the natural version we've described. There's still time to change it though so if anyone could reassure me that SC is the name of this natural version I will reinstate that name.

Jon, you mean On The Rebound. It isn't on the topo, admittedly as an oversight on my part. I'm no longer in a position to modify the pictures unfortunately, so it won't be on the final topo. You'll have to keep it a secret.

[jonP]

Jon, you mean On The Rebound

That's the one.

I'm no longer in a position to modify the pictures unfortunately, so it won't be on the final topo.

No problem - as I know where it goes that's not really a problem for me!