[nik at work]

Sorry I'm no good with cockney rhyming slang.

[Bubba]

The Yorkshire Chicken Run Translator:

Wow! I really love grit bouldering - it's especially fine on a cold day dear chap.

comes out as:

Wa! ah rate love grit boulderin - it's especially fine on eur parky day eh up chap.

Like it!

[dave]

Saturday's weatha looks like it could be proper bo.

[Bubba]

Craaaaiiig Daaaaaviiiid!!! Eeeh, it were proper bo I'll tell thee!  :D

Cracks me up that program, but I wonder what old Craig himself thinks of it? Hmmmm, on second thoughts, who cares - anyone who's that hideously successful at his age deserves to have the piss taken out of them.

[dave]

I'm fvcking bored, so someone please post......

So whats tha deal with this Higginson's Arm shiznit? is it nails? is it even worth me considering trying? Also whats the best problems to do on the inertial reel bit, or indeed any skin-rippers to avoid? cheerz.

[nik at work]

Higginsons arm is ace.
Start lying under the boulder left hand on a crimp under the roof right hand on a pinch on the lip right foot toe hook just right of left hand left foot on obvious foothold on lip (tip: heel-an-toe it in place). Bring left hand through to slopy pinch on lip. Then reach through with right hand to get good crimp under roof (I fall of this cos I can't keep my feet on - too short). Move left foot onto the right hand starting hold, drop right foot off. Reach up with left for slopy crimp. Swap feet and bring left foot up to heel hook slopy pinch. Drop right off. Reach round corner with right hand for slopy boss. Turn left foot heel hook into a toe hook. Bring right foot up to foothold under the roof. Twist body round to the right to lock position. Bring left hand accross to match with right on the boss. Reposition body. Reach up with left for good slopy ledge. Match with right. Cut loose with feet and bring feet up high. Reach up for next edge and rock onto feet.
Worth trying as you can pull on to each move individually so quite easy to work.
I too am bored.......
Other good problems.
On the big boulder in rockhall cottage garden. Start to the right of the chipped steps. work feet up ledges until a faith in friction smearing move sees you stood on the slab. Finish up this.

Your turn....

[dave]

I take it this is the matching-the-boss bit?:



I hope to god that sloper is better than it looks.

..... Drop right off......

I may just do that looking at the state of that sloper!

My turn? Well i've done fuck all bouldering at the roaches apart from the trade routes (staffs flyer etc), but i can recomend tierdrop to anyone as a fantastic font 7a+, well worth doing, great moves and pleanty of 'em.

[Bubba]

So that's Higgy's Arm - that was getting a mass ascent from Justfunk and his crew last time we were up there - nice landing!

Who's profile pic is that off?

[dave]

I think its one of justfuck's pics, from what i can gather. Looks an ace problem, though probably too hard 4 me. I'll just be happy if i can get close to that big dyno ting.

[Bubba]

They were quoting 7b+ I seem to remember, so V8 or V8+ depending on your stance on the tweak...

[nik at work]

yeah thats the matching the boss bit. it is quite slopy but its ok to hang because your feet hold you in place really well. The landing is a shocker but with a couple of mats its fine.
Tierdrop - excellent choice sir.
Dunno who that is in the photo.

[nik at work]

I'd probably go for 7c (V9?) but that would be with my usual caveat of having no idea about bouldering grades.....

The big dyno is ace, forgot about that one.

[dave]

cheers for the beyda, though not sure i'll remember it all. If we do end up there this weekend i can imagine me getting stuck on that dyno for a few hours, then having go home in the dark having failed on it, done fuck all else, torn skin etc etc the usual story.

[nik at work]

If you're going to go there drop me an email to let me know and I'll try and come down.

[dave]

Word.

[nik at work]

Ummm

'Rumbunctious' has always been one of my favourites but I must also express a certain fondness for 'patronage'. Will they do or did you have a specific word in mind?

[justfunk_]

I'm a bit confused now (doesn't take much) The slab I am talking about is the one that on your website is described as an 8a+ project. To the right of the slab with the pockets in it on the lower tier on the big boulder with the undercut dyno on it etc. Is this also a E4 6c Nadin route or is there another pockets slab? Sorry if I am being a bit thick but I haven't done a huge amount of bouldering at the roaches (other than the stuff everyone knows). I would be grateful if someone could clear this up for me......

Sorry   i was on about the super boulder below dougies hall. The problem let of pockety slab is dougless E3 6b. The project you thought is still a project ! phew . .   :roll:

P.S. Has anyone tried the direct start to piece of mind? I.e. straight up the scoop to the right of the blunt arete to join piece of mind at the step right..

Yes me and julian lines was talking about this it would be a mega line!  :!: Hard with a bad landing :!:  :rocker: .It looks like the last good line on that block

[nik at work]

I agree about the piece of mind direct line. I tried it a couple of years ago and thought hard 7a, sustained with a bad landing. But amazing line.

[mark s]

i fancy ago at that one myself.nik,u have to do counterstroke of equity on the skyline.its awesome.gear in wings so its safe.i fell off the top and only got whiplash.