[nik at work]

I was going ot add this to the end of the hard slabs thread but that is getting a bit long so.......
As I have said previously my understanding of bouldering grades is weak to non-existant, and my strength is also weak to non-existant so in an effort to develop my understanding of grades (developing strength takes to much effort) would people mind suggesting grades/probable grades(font and V) for the following slabby problems/projects at the roaches.....(I have put my guesses in brackets - they are probably very wrong)
1) Pockets slab lower tier boulders - (V4 font?)
2) Slab right of pockets slab (V? font?)
3)bobba fett (V9? font?)
4)slab left of bobba fett (V7? font?)
5)slab left again(V? font?)
6)traverse left to right to top of bobba fett (V8? font?)
7) slab right of particle exchange on the big boulder in the garden of rock cottage(V? font?)
Groove right of the chipped steps on the other side of this boulder (V? font?)

I am assuming number 2) hasn't been done, what about number 7)?

[Bubba]

Did you do Bobba? I'm keen to go back and try that and no 4.

The only one I've done is no 5 and it's tricky to grade as it's very easy to go out left after the first moves which makes it quite easy.
If you go direct to the "dish" near the top of the slab, then finish direct, I reckon (after some reflection of how hard it is vs how badly I'm climbing at the mo) that it's V5, though I think on Justin's site it get's V4.

This was on one of the coldest days I can remember though, so conditions were bang-on perfect.

[nik at work]

yeah, done all the bobba boulder probs. I agree the left one is a bit squeezed in, easy to use the arete.
I found the middle one quite hard (but did it on a relatively warmish day) but bobba is best!
Hope conditions are good tomorrow as I am very keen to try/do the slab right of the pockets slab, tried it last weekend but the top was wet :cry:
But this weekend it will be perfect :D

Nik the optimist

[Bubba]

There's also the one which starts on prob 5, then follows the obvious traverse line to finish up Bobba.....

Yeah, looking forward to this weekend big style  

[dave]

I've only done the pockets one, so i recon it about whatever its given in the guide, so yeah about V3/4.

[nik at work]

problem eight on my list is ace (the smiley one). It will be a bit green but it is brill. About 6b - errrr V4?
Dunno but really really good. Start just right of the chipped steps, rock onto the slab with pure smear power.
I did it about four or five years ago, it doesn't seem to be in any guides but I am sure it will have been done before then..

[hongkongstuey]

1) Pockets slab lower tier boulders - (V4 font?)

This one only about UK tech 5c (its always been waaay overgraded in past bouldering guides)- surely something around V2 / 3 is more appropriate

[nik at work]

Went to the roaches on Saturday but the lower tier boulders were all wet so no joy on the slab front
However the big boulder in the rockhall cottage garden was all covered in snow so after failing on higginsons arm for a bit spent some time sliding/sledging down it on a bouldering mat, lots of fun :D

[justfunk_]

The slab you are on about(next to pockety wall(super boulder) is a Nadin E4 6c that has not been repeated(its so green) I have got to the top but bailed! If someone will clean it then it may have a chance of being repeated?  It is hard to pull on then get very very steep to topout! probably 7a .   I keep forgetting to go back and try this damd thang! !

If you want an amazing slab then ,past the upper tier boulders keep going till you are about to start on the skyline,look directly below the first (skyline) buttress is a huge slab about 6b (V7)and very very worth while! Its an old woodwood one from the EB days ! I  Bet it was harder in them baby's.  It has a V4 right arete and V8/9 left arete which is a little highball but not too bad.  

Take care

[Bubba]

Bit of a tangent here, but when you're standing on the very top of the Roaches, looking out the back towards Ramshaw, what's that big squareish block that you can see quite a way away, but not as far as Ramshaw....or was I tripping?

[dave]

Isn't that The Cube, as described in the bouldering guide and 1989 guide?

[Bubba]

That'd sound about right, I've just never been over to it or noticed it in the guide - is it worth the walk?

[nik at work]

The slab you are on about(next to pockety wall(super boulder) is a Nadin E4 6c that has not been repeated(its so green) I have got to the top but bailed!

I'm a bit confused now (doesn't take much) The slab I am talking about is the one that on your website is described as an 8a+ project. To the right of the slab with the pockets in it on the lower tier on the big boulder with the undercut dyno on it etc. Is this also a E4 6c Nadin route or is there another pockets slab? Sorry if I am being a bit thick but I haven't done a huge amount of bouldering at the roaches (other than the stuff everyone knows). I would be grateful if someone could clear this up for me.....

P.S. Has anyone tried the direct start to piece of mind? I.e. straight up the scoop to the right of the blunt arete to join piece of mind at the step right.

[dave]

Speaking of which, has anyone done The Thin Air? whats it like?

[mozzer]

My mate did it and felt it more sketchy than the Piece of Mind, apparently the rock over is well ard.

Having said that someone else i know (ssh) top roped it and found it "sustained hard but OK".

So not much help really.

Dont fancy falling off it mind

[nik at work]

Speaking of which, has anyone done The Thin Air? whats it like?

It's OK.
It is easy to get to the ripple thingy. Rocking up onto this is the crux which is also Ok if you do it confidently (as with all rock overs). I found the rach over the top a bit slopy/reachy but I am a certified short arse. (5ft6)
If you were taller the top out is probably easier, but it may make the rock-over a bit harder (I dunno).
Anyway you can go up to the ripple see how it feels and then come back down quite easily I would have thought.
You gonna try it? On-sight?
If you had a couple of mats and a tied down spotter it would probably be more of a boulder problem, without mats and spotter it feels pretty bold.
Ummmm.. can't really think of anything else except that it is a really cool route.

[dave]

We are on about going down some time soon on a bouldering tip, so i thought i could kill 2 birds with one stone, so to speak. Mind, you i haven't yet got round to doing chalkstorm, so would probably do that first and see how i felt.

I take it the rockover is a kind of feet-to-hands thing? is it a smeary rockover? I am 6'1 so hopefully the top will be ok.

Onsight?

Not after all this beta!

I would probably use a couple of mats and a spotter, which i think is fair game for the ground-up, but to keep it sporting I'd probably use a lousy spotter. Only reason i fancy it is i seem to do well on routes at the roaches, what with things like wings, track, acid drop, tierdrop etc. But knowing me I'd probably get there and have a sudden rethink.....

[nik at work]

I don't think you've had that much beta have you? Especially given our wildly different heights.....
And I haven't told you how to do anything.
Chalkstorm is a nice little route, I'll say no more so as not to sully any attempt you may make to climb it.
Also if you like slabs try
Ou Est Le Spit (E6 at the far right of the upper tier)
Catastophe Internationale (E5/6 left end of lower tier)
Apache Dawn (E5/6 Just left again)
All solos and all slabs and all ace

[dave]

Cheers for the beyda. Probably need to get some more routes under me belt before trying any o' those.....like doing some routes full-stop!

[Bubba]

...Catastophe Internationale....All solos and all slabs and all ace

That's a helluva steep slab! Looks like an evil pebbly wall to me...but then I've never got on it. Some of the topouts on that bit of the crag look like minging grass pulling - what are they like really?

[nik at work]

The tops are OK, the routes are just longer than they appear as the rock slopes backwards. Once you are at the grassy big the route is over. Having said that I imagine the tops can get very wet and green.
Catastrophe Internationale and Apache Dawn are definitely slabs. Just steep ones with pebble pulling but still slabs in my mind.
If you want lower grade slab routes then try Elegy - brilliant and definitely a slab by anyones definition.
When are you thinking of going there Dave as I am keen to go there and so we could meet up (and I may even remember to bring along a certain item with me..)
I will be trying to peresuade the gf to go down there (again) this w'end.

[dave]

My main G cofe was on about dropping a roaches bomb this weekend, however i think its too early to tell what the weather will do, might totally wank out. If we decide to go i'll let you know like on friday or summert....

[nik at work]

My main G cofe was on about dropping a roaches bomb this weekend, however i think its too early to tell what the weather will do, might totally wank out. If we decide to go i'll let you know like on friday or summert....

I put this into babelfish and it came up with this.

A rather spiffing suggestion has been made regarding a possible trip to The Roaches escarpment on the weekend of the 18th and 19th of this month. Whilst the group is enthusiastic about this trip it must be highlighted that there are feelings of apprehension. It is entirely possible that we may encounter inclement weather and as such the trip would be wasted as we would be unable to sample the vertical pleasures offered by this outcrop. I will advise you of our intentions upon or around friday 17th of January.
Regards
David

Babelfish has also suggested that a suitable response would be.

Bling bling daddy-o that sounds fine. I got to get me some of that. Big up yourself. I'm just hanging with my homies. Text me beetch. I is for real. Buyakasha.


Quite.

[Bubba]

Hee hee!! Like that a lot!

[dave]

You certainly got da 2-11 on my shiznit.

Some linx you wanna get down with:
RapDictionary
Ali G Translator

[nik at work]

Sorry I'm no good with cockney rhyming slang.

[Bubba]

The Yorkshire Chicken Run Translator:

Wow! I really love grit bouldering - it's especially fine on a cold day dear chap.

comes out as:

Wa! ah rate love grit boulderin - it's especially fine on eur parky day eh up chap.

Like it!

[dave]

Saturday's weatha looks like it could be proper bo.

[Bubba]

Craaaaiiig Daaaaaviiiid!!! Eeeh, it were proper bo I'll tell thee!  :D

Cracks me up that program, but I wonder what old Craig himself thinks of it? Hmmmm, on second thoughts, who cares - anyone who's that hideously successful at his age deserves to have the piss taken out of them.

[dave]

I'm fvcking bored, so someone please post......

So whats tha deal with this Higginson's Arm shiznit? is it nails? is it even worth me considering trying? Also whats the best problems to do on the inertial reel bit, or indeed any skin-rippers to avoid? cheerz.

[nik at work]

Higginsons arm is ace.
Start lying under the boulder left hand on a crimp under the roof right hand on a pinch on the lip right foot toe hook just right of left hand left foot on obvious foothold on lip (tip: heel-an-toe it in place). Bring left hand through to slopy pinch on lip. Then reach through with right hand to get good crimp under roof (I fall of this cos I can't keep my feet on - too short). Move left foot onto the right hand starting hold, drop right foot off. Reach up with left for slopy crimp. Swap feet and bring left foot up to heel hook slopy pinch. Drop right off. Reach round corner with right hand for slopy boss. Turn left foot heel hook into a toe hook. Bring right foot up to foothold under the roof. Twist body round to the right to lock position. Bring left hand accross to match with right on the boss. Reposition body. Reach up with left for good slopy ledge. Match with right. Cut loose with feet and bring feet up high. Reach up for next edge and rock onto feet.
Worth trying as you can pull on to each move individually so quite easy to work.
I too am bored.......
Other good problems.
On the big boulder in rockhall cottage garden. Start to the right of the chipped steps. work feet up ledges until a faith in friction smearing move sees you stood on the slab. Finish up this.

Your turn....

[dave]

I take it this is the matching-the-boss bit?:



I hope to god that sloper is better than it looks.

..... Drop right off......

I may just do that looking at the state of that sloper!

My turn? Well i've done fuck all bouldering at the roaches apart from the trade routes (staffs flyer etc), but i can recomend tierdrop to anyone as a fantastic font 7a+, well worth doing, great moves and pleanty of 'em.

[Bubba]

So that's Higgy's Arm - that was getting a mass ascent from Justfunk and his crew last time we were up there - nice landing!

Who's profile pic is that off?

[dave]

I think its one of justfuck's pics, from what i can gather. Looks an ace problem, though probably too hard 4 me. I'll just be happy if i can get close to that big dyno ting.

[Bubba]

They were quoting 7b+ I seem to remember, so V8 or V8+ depending on your stance on the tweak...

[nik at work]

yeah thats the matching the boss bit. it is quite slopy but its ok to hang because your feet hold you in place really well. The landing is a shocker but with a couple of mats its fine.
Tierdrop - excellent choice sir.
Dunno who that is in the photo.

[nik at work]

I'd probably go for 7c (V9?) but that would be with my usual caveat of having no idea about bouldering grades.....

The big dyno is ace, forgot about that one.

[dave]

cheers for the beyda, though not sure i'll remember it all. If we do end up there this weekend i can imagine me getting stuck on that dyno for a few hours, then having go home in the dark having failed on it, done fuck all else, torn skin etc etc the usual story.

[nik at work]

If you're going to go there drop me an email to let me know and I'll try and come down.

[dave]

Word.

[nik at work]

Ummm

'Rumbunctious' has always been one of my favourites but I must also express a certain fondness for 'patronage'. Will they do or did you have a specific word in mind?

[justfunk_]

I'm a bit confused now (doesn't take much) The slab I am talking about is the one that on your website is described as an 8a+ project. To the right of the slab with the pockets in it on the lower tier on the big boulder with the undercut dyno on it etc. Is this also a E4 6c Nadin route or is there another pockets slab? Sorry if I am being a bit thick but I haven't done a huge amount of bouldering at the roaches (other than the stuff everyone knows). I would be grateful if someone could clear this up for me......

Sorry   i was on about the super boulder below dougies hall. The problem let of pockety slab is dougless E3 6b. The project you thought is still a project ! phew . .   :roll:

P.S. Has anyone tried the direct start to piece of mind? I.e. straight up the scoop to the right of the blunt arete to join piece of mind at the step right..

Yes me and julian lines was talking about this it would be a mega line!  :!: Hard with a bad landing :!:  :rocker: .It looks like the last good line on that block

[nik at work]

I agree about the piece of mind direct line. I tried it a couple of years ago and thought hard 7a, sustained with a bad landing. But amazing line.

[mark s]

i fancy ago at that one myself.nik,u have to do counterstroke of equity on the skyline.its awesome.gear in wings so its safe.i fell off the top and only got whiplash.