[Sasquatch]

So I've become less than enamored of our local wall for training and am looking for ideas creating a local board share. 

If you could have anything, what would be requisite for training apparatus?

Off the top of my head, I am thinking about:
Stacked BM,
Campus Board,
System wall,
Moon Board,
Treadwall
12 x 12 Variable angle (20-60 degree overhang) board 
Rings
Free Weights set
Dumbbell set

What else would you want?  I'm looking for the ultimate training dungeon ideas.  I won't be able to do them all, but I at least want to see what we can do.......

[tomtom]

a rack? (for the shorties )

[Sasquatch]

Hottub
Sauna,
Swedish Masseuse...

 

[ardeer]

your still gonna need a bunch of screaming teens to make your really send so you can GTF home for dinner tho, school trip best/worst training aid your local wall has to offer...

[krymson]

[lagerstarfish]

Dolly's shed...

tunes

a little cupboard with bottles of beer in

glitterball

plenty of slopers

well named holds

[tomtom]

Magazine clippings of old school wads cranking/gurning like hell - stuck on the board inbetween holds for inspiration.

[T_B]

A 'cragx' board.

Does anywhere in the UK have a campus board with blob/pinches on it? That looks brilliant fun. Noticed similar in the Jan Hojer vid. Where are all our systems boards too? I guess walls just can't justify the space when we're all such a load of punters? Seems odd given the enthusiasm for 'proper' training nowadays.

[remus]

30 degree circuit board
dip bars
peg board

[Stubbs]

Tom Depot Notts and the Castle have got the blobs out of the Hoger Vid, the Biscuit Factory has got symmetrical Core slopey pinches.  I guess you could do system like training on the Beastmaker board, but probably only on edges?  I think it's a space thing as you say.

[tomtom]

Air Conditioning
Free (good) coffee

Yoga mats? (if its in London)

[tommytwotone]

Tom Depot Notts and the Castle have got the blobs out of the Hoger Vid, the Biscuit Factory has got symmetrical Core slopey pinches.  I guess you could do system like training on the Beastmaker board, but probably only on edges?  I think it's a space thing as you say.

IIRC Mile End had/has a systems board, been a long while since I was there though!

[Monolith]

Get an ego-crushing Beastmaker systems board (a la The Climbing Hangar, Liverpool setup). I can't rate this board highly enough.

[TobyD]

If you could have anything, what would be requisite for training apparatus?
Off the top of my head, I am thinking about:
Stacked BM,
Campus Board,
System wall,
Moon Board,
Treadwall
12 x 12 Variable angle (20-60 degree overhang) board 
Rings
Free Weights set
Dumbbell set
What else would you want?  I'm looking for the ultimate training dungeon ideas.  I won't be able to do them all, but I at least want to see what we can do.......

Beastmaker, campus board, the Wave, and some really offensive hiphop. That is all.

[abarro81]

I guess walls just can't justify the space when we're all such a load of punters? Seems odd given the enthusiasm for 'proper' training nowadays.

I think they just don't make much money off non-punters. Attempting to convince places to spend money on training facilities aint easy.

[tomtom]

Though some folk who are on the boards/training etc.. are ALWAYS on them - type of thing your 3 times a week trainer might use rather than once a week punter... I dunno though - just guessing.

Does Stallioni have any views from his console at the Depot? (or is he too busy selecting bad music and surfing for.....)

[abarro81]

Though some folk who are on the boards/training etc.. are ALWAYS on them - type of thing your 3 times a week trainer might use rather than once a week punter...

Yeah but they're the ones with memberships usually. There are rumours of reshuffles at the foundry which would allow more bouldering space. I suggested a motherboard style board for bouldering on, I'll be shocked (and very happy) if we get anything other than jugs for punters/kids.

[andy_e]

John Gaskins posters
Small crimps
Job done.

[Oldmanmatt]

Dolly's shed...

tunes

a little cupboard with bottles of beer in

glitterball

plenty of slopers

well named holds

Seriously, we have all of that in our training room, except the beer!

Yes, we have a glitter ball and it works! (Used to be a dance school).

We don't have stacked BMs we have off set stack to a TCA board, or direct to slopers/ campus rungs.

[SEDur]

It would be good to have suspension training system a la TRX or Jungle sports.

Also, a gravity training machine, but they are pretty expensive.

[mrjonathanr]

All that sounds good but I'd prioritise a decent size 30* board and one huge (as high/wide as you have space) 45* board over everything else.

[gme]

the school room. Pretty much had it all really.

Maybe add a systems board and beastmaker.

[IS2]

Variable angle lockoff / finger board and "Davey Jones lockoff " block as installed in Eden Rock training room.

[Eddies]

All that sounds good but I'd prioritise a decent size 30* board and one huge (as high/wide as you have space) 45* board over everything else.

Its easy to get carried away planning your training wall / woodie, leading to too much kit to train on!
My advise it to Keep it simple...
A board to warm up on. 10-30 degs
A steep board to bear down on. 30-45 degs
A few Free Weights inc Bench press and pull up bar
A Big Fan, a Clock, a Timer and a Stereo.

Id leave the fingerboard and yoga mat at home, do core and f-boarding sessions between wall days.

[abarro81]

You want a bench press but not a fingerboard or campus board?