[Nibile]

A very good and experienced trainer.

[Moo]

Dai Koyamada's wall

[Sasquatch]

A very good and experienced trainer.

  You offering to move to alaska?

Seriously though.  I'm looking into creating a board share/Co-op/personal training location.  Not at home though.  Too easy for the missus to distract/interfere with serious work

There are a handful of 600-800 sqft garage spaces that I can rent out with 12-20 foot ceilings for quite cheap, $400-500/month (they're designed for people to store big motorhomes in during the winter).  So If I can come up with a good concept, and get about 10-15 friends and likewise motivated guys to get in on it, it ends up being cheaper than the local wall, and it'd be WAYYYYY better for training.  Our current setup is the classic punter's wall. 

[Nibile]

A very good and experienced trainer.

  You offering to move to Alaska? Our current setup is the classic punter's wall.

I said a GOOD and experienced trainer.
And yes, the classic punters' wall that casually made you boulder 8a+!!!
 

[Sasquatch]

Don't know about casually..... But either way it wasn't the punter's wall that got me there.  It was FB'ing and 15 years of bouldering outside. 

Now I'm ready to train like a madman and casually climb 8B or 8C......

[Rocksteady]

My ideal set up would be:

10-20 degree wall for warm ups
35-45 degree big board for crushing
A system board
A board set for circuits so people don't get in the way doing circuits for 20min when you're working your project
A really fingery traverse wall (if there's space)

Pull up bar
Stacked Beastmakers with pulley system and free weights
Campus wall with big and little rungs
Weights vests

Warm up area - swiss ball, foam rollers, therabands

[Footwork]

The Tecknoe board! Sessions come with evil techno, deep house and docepulgadas radio show loud enough to make the walls shake. Get strong or go home (injured).

[douglas]

Also about 200kg of plates (for deadlifting).

[andyd]

I'm assuming that you've got a big mirror on your list

[Paul B]

One 56' board
One 28' board
One 18' CragX board
A book of problems that you'll never manage to tick.

Campus boards.
Fingerboards.
A nice beefy pull up bar with one armer set-up.
Shaky bench press with no bar-ends and plates that don't match and/are in different units.

A lot of dust and a hole kicked in the wall to house a clock. A fading picture of Wolverine.

Open 24 hours. What else could you want?

[205Chris]

One 56' board
One 28' board
One 18' CragX board
A book of problems that you'll never manage to tick.

Campus boards.
Fingerboards.
A nice beefy pull up bar with one armer set-up.
Shaky bench press with no bar-ends and plates that don't match and/are in different units.

A lot of dust and a hole kicked in the wall to house a clock. A fading picture of Wolverine.

Open 24 hours. What else could you want?

It not to be demolished?

[mrjonathanr]

I'm looking into creating a board share/Co-op/personal training location.  Not at home though.  Too easy for the missus to distract/interfere with serious work

There are a handful of 600-800 sqft garage spaces that I can rent out with 12-20 foot ceilings for quite cheap, $400-500/month (they're designed for people to store big motorhomes in during the winter).  So If I can come up with a good concept, and get about 10-15 friends and likewise motivated guys to get in on it, it ends up being cheaper than the local wall, and it'd be WAYYYYY better for training. 

Do this! This is similar to where I and EddieS train, and it's dirt cheap once you've stumped up some capital to get going. Cannot recommend it enough, especially since you can build what you want. And with your own club, you have the key and it's open 24 hrs 

[Eddies]

You want a bench press but not a fingerboard or campus board? 

You cant perform well on campus board or f-board after a few hrs on a steep bouldering wall, but you can bench press. Thats what i was getting at

[Nibile]

I probably would like to have two separate boards, one just for slopers and one for crimpers. For good training, not for having fun climbing.

[krymson]

hope this isnt too off topic but for slopers do you guys prefer the flat 45 beastmaker style, the round lapis ball style, or the rounded edge metolius simulator style?

[Nibile]

 
Sorry.

[rosmat]

I've never seen a better set up than Dan Varian's training room at Eden Rock, Carlisle.

From what I remember:
- 45 deg system board - all wood.
- 55 deg board - all wood.
- About a million finger boards.
- Pull ups set up.
- Interval timers a plenty.
- Really well ventilated.

Wish it was in my spare room, or preferably that the missus would move out and I could have it in the living room.

[Sasquatch]

Thansk for all the ideas.  Definitely been working at figuring this out.  Hopefully I can get a place in November and have it built out by January.  The next wave of crushers will be from the land of eternal darkness..... 

and midnight sun

[Dr T]

Thansk for all the ideas.  Definitely been working at figuring this out.  Hopefully I can get a place in November and have it built out by January.  The next wave of crushers will be from the land of eternal darkness..... 

and midnight sun

Will you promise photo's and a place on the board share directory?? :-)

[Sasquatch]

If it happens, I'll post pics and details

[cuboard]

One 56' board
One 28' board
One 18' CragX board
A book of problems that you'll never manage to tick.

Campus boards.
Fingerboards.
A nice beefy pull up bar with one armer set-up.
Shaky bench press with no bar-ends and plates that don't match and/are in different units.

A lot of dust and a hole kicked in the wall to house a clock. A fading picture of Wolverine.

Open 24 hours. What else could you want



Shakey bench press was great, especially with 120kg and Quent screaming at you to get that last rep.The hole in the wall was the result off swinging off the crux move on my problem "Mr Blobby the swing man" 7c....... and sticking their foot through the plasterboard....

[gme]

and picture of Natalie Imbruglia

[Jaspersharpe]

Include a John Dunne shrine and make sure every hold name is libellous.

[Sasquatch]

Never been a fan of Dunne.....  Not sure why.  Always liked Dawes though. 

[rich d]

When I was first starting out and about 16, I'd just seconded S crack at ilkley and was thinking look at me that stands for very severe! When Dunne turned up and show boated up Wellington crack with his trainers on.
I've liked him ever since!