[gme]

 Dense- All I will say is I let Ben climb with me on the 45 at the works

Surely this has been overlooked as a high point in the lads achievements so far. How can we change the thread title to " Ben Davison- Climbs with Dense on the works 45 in three years"

[rich d]

gme:
 Dense- All I will say is I let Ben climb with me on the 45 at the works

Surely this has been overlooked as a high point in the lads achievements so far. How can we change the thread title to " Ben Davison- Allowed to climb with Dense on the works 45 in three years"
Corrected that for you.

[a dense loner]

Exactly, I thought the climbing media at large should know. Good work shouldn't go unrewarded

[SA Chris]

You can be as string as you like but if you can't climb you're going to waste it.

I'm nowhere near as string as I'd like to be.

[fatdoc]

Sorry, I may have misunderstood..

For clarity..

By the time we hit the early 00s I reckon I could list up to 100  UK climbers that have done French 8a route grade... So there would be loads more.

Us old Gits never used 8a.nu and stuff back in th day..

[saltbeef]

stubbs meant font 8a

[fatdoc]

Ahhh

My bad...

[Doylo]

 See if we used V grades this never would have happened   

[Duma]

CAPITAL=boulder
lowercase=route

[a dense loner]

Bouldering site = boulder

Routes are in the fetish section

[lagerstarfish]

I have no idea about all this training nonsense. All I will say is I let Ben climb with me on the 45 at the works whilst I sat down and drank coffee just before his trip and he looked too much like Adam Lincoln for my liking

[a dense loner]

See how quickly a thread sucking Ben off turns to taunting another guy about coffee, bonkers.

I did think this guy could do something good if it had huge holds on it

[SEDur]

First off, big respect for Ben Davison!
An awesome effort in all respects. I hope I can get into the 8s by the third year (not long to go though).

I would like to draw your attention to Jerry's auto-biography.
The 'old-skool' generation trained like dogs through the 8s in sport.
It is important to remember exactly what you consider training to be. Structured routes/movement can still be considered training.
They had also generally climbed the harder end of trad for years and years.

NSFW  :

I think it is important to remember that Mr.Davison has been training hard in a very physical (conglomerate of) sport(s) through the most important growth years.
It is still possible that he can fulfil closer to his natural potential, as he is still only 19; compared to someone like me who started when they were 22 or later.

I am sure that the hours he has put in the 'gym' and on the rock, have not only been much more than joe average with an office job; but have all been used wisely and effectively to not only train strength, but simultaneously train how to climb. Everyone seems to forget that training on a moon board, is still training the body the learn movement. Said movement may be on wood or plastic, but the body will still learn from it. The transfer of skills to rock is still a largely psychological effort, and of course partially physical as well.

I think zippy said it best the other day; when we were talking about how training on rock is the best training (if available). There you get strong, and you learn on the medium of which you mean to improve. Yes, it is really hard to do. But you will learn to use the rock, to move on the rock and to get strong. A lot of it is not only 'getting strong', but teaching your concious, subconscious mind and nervous system how to behave and react on rock and under pressure. Proof? Find me a wad who has done nothing but bench press and finger board, then stick him on action direct.

NSFW  :

I think it is also worth remembering the video of the Chinese climber that surfaced last year, who i seem to remember managed 8c in 2 years? Not to downgrade Ben's accomplishment, he is still far more successful then most people i know and most definitely myself.

[gme]

Do you not contradict your self by saying a lot of bens rapid improvement can be put down to his prior sporting achievements then stating that someone who bench pressed and deadhung for years couldn't get good at climbing quickly? 

[SEDur]

Do you not contradict your self by saying a lot of bens rapid improvement can be put down to his prior sporting achievements then stating that someone who bench pressed and deadhung for years couldn't get good at climbing quickly? 

I wasn't implying his success is directly caused by his previous work, merely that it would be a great foundation upon which to build.
I was also stating that someone who ONLY does bench-presses and deadhangs i.e. doesn't spend any time doing movement (the key word) will struggle to improve as quickly.

For example; within his blog post about training, Ben does include movement in the power section.

The point I was trying to make was how beneficial training via movement can be. Even in Feehaley's latest interview on UKC, when asked about how much training he does he says; 'It depends what you would class as training and what is just climbing'. That in itself would imply that a distinction needs to be made between climbing for climbing and climbing for intended benefits, to answer the question.

[Stubbs]

I was also stating that someone who ONLY does bench-presses and deadhangs i.e. doesn't spend any time doing movement (the key word) will struggle to improve as quickly.

Would this count as a strawman then, as this clearly doesn't happen with anyone's training.

[a dense loner]

Strawman?

[Duma]

strawman
"...a type of argument based on misrepresentation of an opponent's position. To "attack a straw man" is to create the illusion of having refuted a proposition by replacing it with a superficially similar yet unequivalent proposition (the "straw man"), and to refute it, without ever having actually refuted the original position."

[shark]

strawman
"...a  type of climber with arms and legs like straw and weighing significantly less than an adult human being who makes a mockery of grading systems based on the average climber. To "attack a straw man" is not hard (or fair) as they are not built for fighting."

[SEDur]

strawman
"...a  type of climber with arms and legs like straw and weighing significantly less than an adult human being who makes a mockery of grading systems based on the average climber. To "attack a straw man" is not hard (or fair) as they are not built for fighting."

Yeah, that sounds like me. Weak as a kitten with legs and arms of straw.
I need to do Ben's training program for a few years (genuinely).