[joe dobson]

Hi, got quick a question about tendon unit flexor strain thingy.

I injured my wrist before xmas and then re-tweaked it back in June, so it hurts when I use my middle two but not when I fully crimp. So I concluded that it was a tendon unit flexor strain (injured it open handed on a middle 2 pocket).

So I've been still training but avoiding middle 2 pockets (so using front 2 etc) as its still fine to climb normally on slopers, pinches and crimps. However I'm slightly concerned as I have a lump on my right wrist which i think is a results of the injury.

Do you have any tips for the treatment? Would taping my wrist be of any benefit? Should I be concerned about this lump?

Rather annoying as I'd quite like to train my middle two but realise thats a long way off!

[Turboman]

Hi, I've got a shoulder injury which I'd appreciate your advice on.

At present I have a significant weakness (and mild pain) when externally rotating the forearm (i.e. during one of the classic theraband rotator cuff exercises). 
If I perform the scarf test I have significant  pain on the outside of my shoulder (Deltoid area). This is particularly painful if, during scarf test, I raise or lower the elbow against resistance.
Massaging the pectoral muscle (pec minor area) does offer some short term reduction in pain of scarf test and increases strength of external rotation.

Had this injury for 3-4 months.  Symptoms have eased but now seem very resistant to clearing up fully.
No hard (or even intermediate) climbing has been possible during this period.

Any ideas on how I can help finally clear this up?

Hi, if you have had a problem for 3-4 months then you may be compensating by holding the shoulder in a protected position. This can sometimes continue to provoke the symptoms and also in some instances put your shoulder a mechanically poor position and hence it will feel weaker. Have a look in the mirror and make sure the shoulder isn't too depressed or elevated. More often or not the shoulder becomes more dropped (depressed) and this can create an impingement. If it does look dropped then practice shrugging the shoulder a little and then lift your arm towards the ceiling (shoulder press). If this feels easier then add some light weights. I would also recommend seeing a physio as it has been going on for a while and it isn't always easy to analyse the shoulder yourself. Let me know how you get on or if you find that the shoulder is doing different things to the opposite one.
regards Matt

Hi Matt,

It's not really apparent if one shoulder is at a different height to the other.  The injured one may possibly be very slightly depressed.

What I did find quite amazing was that in performing the scarf test in front of the mirror on my good side the arm comes across the body and the muscle running from shoulder to neck (trapezius?) remains pretty much static.
On the injured side when I perform the scarf test the trapezius rises massively and the shoulder lifts upwards and in (towards the neck) to a very different position.

I've tried some light shoulder presses but didn't notice much effect.

Think I might give you a call.

[HPclinic]

Hi, got quick a question about tendon unit flexor strain thingy.

I injured my wrist before xmas and then re-tweaked it back in June, so it hurts when I use my middle two but not when I fully crimp. So I concluded that it was a tendon unit flexor strain (injured it open handed on a middle 2 pocket).

So I've been still training but avoiding middle 2 pockets (so using front 2 etc) as its still fine to climb normally on slopers, pinches and crimps. However I'm slightly concerned as I have a lump on my right wrist which i think is a results of the injury.

Do you have any tips for the treatment? Would taping my wrist be of any benefit? Should I be concerned about this lump?

Rather annoying as I'd quite like to train my middle two but realise thats a long way off!

Hi it sounds as if you have a ganglion cyst. They occur near to joints such as the wrist and tedons. They are fluid filled sacs that can occur due to repetitive stress around the joint and tendon but are nothing to worry about. You could try taping to give the wrist a bit more support. You should also start to use your middle two fingers but start on a lot lower grades and increase the load gradually over a 6 week period particularly if you have had a pulley injury. Hope this helps.
Matt

[HPclinic]

Hi, I've got a shoulder injury which I'd appreciate your advice on.

At present I have a significant weakness (and mild pain) when externally rotating the forearm (i.e. during one of the classic theraband rotator cuff exercises). 
If I perform the scarf test I have significant  pain on the outside of my shoulder (Deltoid area). This is particularly painful if, during scarf test, I raise or lower the elbow against resistance.
Massaging the pectoral muscle (pec minor area) does offer some short term reduction in pain of scarf test and increases strength of external rotation.

Had this injury for 3-4 months.  Symptoms have eased but now seem very resistant to clearing up fully.
No hard (or even intermediate) climbing has been possible during this period.

Any ideas on how I can help finally clear this up?

Hi, if you have had a problem for 3-4 months then you may be compensating by holding the shoulder in a protected position. This can sometimes continue to provoke the symptoms and also in some instances put your shoulder a mechanically poor position and hence it will feel weaker. Have a look in the mirror and make sure the shoulder isn't too depressed or elevated. More often or not the shoulder becomes more dropped (depressed) and this can create an impingement. If it does look dropped then practice shrugging the shoulder a little and then lift your arm towards the ceiling (shoulder press). If this feels easier then add some light weights. I would also recommend seeing a physio as it has been going on for a while and it isn't always easy to analyse the shoulder yourself. Let me know how you get on or if you find that the shoulder is doing different things to the opposite one.
regards Matt

Hi Matt,

It's not really apparent if one shoulder is at a different height to the other.  The injured one may possibly be very slightly depressed.

What I did find quite amazing was that in performing the scarf test in front of the mirror on my good side the arm comes across the body and the muscle running from shoulder to neck (trapezius?) remains pretty much static.
On the injured side when I perform the scarf test the trapezius rises massively and the shoulder lifts upwards and in (towards the neck) to a very different position.

I've tried some light shoulder presses but didn't notice much effect.

Think I might give you a call.

Hi, have you seen Steve as he thinks your problem sounds familiar? If so how are you going?
Matt

[mark20]

I sometimes get a dull ache on the inside of my elbows, near where the bicep joins the elbow. It's been happening for a couple of years now, usually my right arm, and after a few sessions of powerful bouldering- anything really slappy or big locks between holds on steep ground. Usually clears up again in a couple of days with rest / pressups, etc. But it's becoming a bit annoying and I can't seem to completely get rid of it so any advice would be great, thanks

[Turboman]

Hi, I've got a shoulder injury which I'd appreciate your advice on.

At present I have a significant weakness (and mild pain) when externally rotating the forearm (i.e. during one of the classic theraband rotator cuff exercises). 
If I perform the scarf test I have significant  pain on the outside of my shoulder (Deltoid area). This is particularly painful if, during scarf test, I raise or lower the elbow against resistance.
Massaging the pectoral muscle (pec minor area) does offer some short term reduction in pain of scarf test and increases strength of external rotation.

Had this injury for 3-4 months.  Symptoms have eased but now seem very resistant to clearing up fully.
No hard (or even intermediate) climbing has been possible during this period.

Any ideas on how I can help finally clear this up?

Hi, if you have had a problem for 3-4 months then you may be compensating by holding the shoulder in a protected position. This can sometimes continue to provoke the symptoms and also in some instances put your shoulder a mechanically poor position and hence it will feel weaker. Have a look in the mirror and make sure the shoulder isn't too depressed or elevated. More often or not the shoulder becomes more dropped (depressed) and this can create an impingement. If it does look dropped then practice shrugging the shoulder a little and then lift your arm towards the ceiling (shoulder press). If this feels easier then add some light weights. I would also recommend seeing a physio as it has been going on for a while and it isn't always easy to analyse the shoulder yourself. Let me know how you get on or if you find that the shoulder is doing different things to the opposite one.
regards Matt

Hi Matt,

It's not really apparent if one shoulder is at a different height to the other.  The injured one may possibly be very slightly depressed.

What I did find quite amazing was that in performing the scarf test in front of the mirror on my good side the arm comes across the body and the muscle running from shoulder to neck (trapezius?) remains pretty much static.
On the injured side when I perform the scarf test the trapezius rises massively and the shoulder lifts upwards and in (towards the neck) to a very different position.

I've tried some light shoulder presses but didn't notice much effect.

Think I might give you a call.

Hi, have you seen Steve as he thinks your problem sounds familiar? If so how are you going?
Matt

Hi Matt, Following your advice and recognising the substantially differnt look of one shoulder compared to the other I booked in for a consultation. Got a slot with Steve.

Steve thinks (in my laymans terms) that the root of the problem is that my job entails sitting all day at a computer driving a mouse.  This has led to a tightening on the right hand which is pulling my shoulder down and out of position.  Got some stretches and hunch exercises to do as well as making adjustments to seating arrangemnt at work etc. trying to recognise when I am favouring LH side over RH side and consiously making adjustments.
Will see how it goes. 

Thanks for you advice.

[SA Chris]

Don't know what I've done to my back, but got dull ache at the bottom of my ribs about 4 inches to left of middle of spine. Aches most of the time and get a stabbing pain if I lean over to the right more that about 30 degress from upright. Ok leaning backwards and forwards (slightly worse, but not like leaning over to side). Haven't done anything specific to bring it on, think I first felt it lifting up our youngest about a week ago and it hasn't gone away.

Any advice, other than seeing a professional? (which I intend doing if it doesn't improve).

Thanks

[HPclinic]

Don't know what I've done to my back, but got dull ache at the bottom of my ribs about 4 inches to left of middle of spine. Aches most of the time and get a stabbing pain if I lean over to the right more that about 30 degress from upright. Ok leaning backwards and forwards (slightly worse, but not like leaning over to side). Haven't done anything specific to bring it on, think I first felt it lifting up our youngest about a week ago and it hasn't gone away.

Any advice, other than seeing a professional? (which I intend doing if it doesn't improve).

Thanks

Hi, it sounds as if you have strained/irritated either your lower thoracic facet joints (where one segment joins another) or where the ribs join into your thoracic spine. These strains are often acutely painful and niggle when you stretch them or compress them. I would recommend that you do some rotatory trunk movements in sitting as well as bending forward in sitting to touch the floor. When you are lifting your little ones try and carry them on both sides and minimise the leaning back. Movement and exercise should clear it up but occasionally a few treatment sessions help things along. See how you go.
Regards Matt

[HPclinic]

I sometimes get a dull ache on the inside of my elbows, near where the bicep joins the elbow. It's been happening for a couple of years now, usually my right arm, and after a few sessions of powerful bouldering- anything really slappy or big locks between holds on steep ground. Usually clears up again in a couple of days with rest / pressups, etc. But it's becoming a bit annoying and I can't seem to completely get rid of it so any advice would be great, thanks

Hi, you could be compressing a nerve (median) when you are fully bending your elbow with a biceps contraction ie in locking out. Do you get any pins and needles or numbness? There are some nerve movements/mobilisations that may help, these involve taking your arm out to the side, straightening your elbow with your fingers pointing downwards (starting position is like carrying a tray) and look towards your hand. Then bend the elbow again and look the opposite way. Do about 30 of these twice daily. The other observations we would want to look at would be your shoulder position as you may be compensating. It could also be that you are compressing and loading the elbow and the joint is crumbling a bit. Ultimately it goes away which is good but it may require an assessment if it's getting worse or not clearing up. Let me know how you get on.
Regards Matt

[SA Chris]

I would recommend that you do some rotatory trunk movements in sitting as well as bending forward in sitting to touch the floor.

Been doing some twisting and stretching and it's improving already. Thanks for help.

[masonwoods101]

Hi, for about a year I've been having problems with my elbows, neck and back. Initially I stopped climbing I stopped climbing for about 3 months but the problems didn't go, if anything they got worse. i tried doing the tendonitis weight exercises but thu didnt seem to help (after a few months of being very strict). More recently through lots of stretching, shoulder shrugs and hot baths after climbing the symptoms have calmed down (ie my elbows rarely hurt) but I can't quite get rid of the fore arm tension and neck pain. My forearms seem tense in the morning but I stretch them a lot throughout the day. It seems that too much climbing only makes my neck stuff and forearms a little stiff an the only thing that gets the inside of my elbows hurting is day to day activities (drying hair and using my phone etc). Wondering if there is any specific back workouts I could do to finally get rid of my problems.
Hope all that rambling made sense and thanks in advance for any replies
Dave

[HPclinic]

Hi, for about a year I've been having problems with my elbows, neck and back. Initially I stopped climbing I stopped climbing for about 3 months but the problems didn't go, if anything they got worse. i tried doing the tendonitis weight exercises but thu didnt seem to help (after a few months of being very strict). More recently through lots of stretching, shoulder shrugs and hot baths after climbing the symptoms have calmed down (ie my elbows rarely hurt) but I can't quite get rid of the fore arm tension and neck pain. My forearms seem tense in the morning but I stretch them a lot throughout the day. It seems that too much climbing only makes my neck stuff and forearms a little stiff an the only thing that gets the inside of my elbows hurting is day to day activities (drying hair and using my phone etc). Wondering if there is any specific back workouts I could do to finally get rid of my problems.
Hope all that rambling made sense and thanks in advance for any replies
Dave

Hi, when you have bilateral (both sides) problems we would tend to look more centrally ie your neck. It sounds as if you are loading the neck and overstretching the brachial plexus (the nerves coming out of your neck into your arm). It would make sense that the shoulder shrugs helped because you are in effect unloading the neck. If you are sitting most of the day check that you are not slumping and depressing your shoulders. Also when you are bouldering make sure you are elongating (lengthening) your trunk and reaching upwards with your arms when traversing. Just a check because we see climbers that have neck and shoulder problems and they are not able to let there side trunk/back muscles lengthen and tend to pull downwards. Continue with your shoulder shrugs and also try shoulder press (arms above head) exercises with light to medium weights making sure you elevate your shoulders. If you have better shoulder and trunk positions you will feel stronger and also use your forearms less. Let me know if this helps.
regards
matt

[HPclinic]

Hi, for about a year I've been having problems with my elbows, neck and back. Initially I stopped climbing I stopped climbing for about 3 months but the problems didn't go, if anything they got worse. i tried doing the tendonitis weight exercises but thu didnt seem to help (after a few months of being very strict). More recently through lots of stretching, shoulder shrugs and hot baths after climbing the symptoms have calmed down (ie my elbows rarely hurt) but I can't quite get rid of the fore arm tension and neck pain. My forearms seem tense in the morning but I stretch them a lot throughout the day. It seems that too much climbing only makes my neck stuff and forearms a little stiff an the only thing that gets the inside of my elbows hurting is day to day activities (drying hair and using my phone etc). Wondering if there is any specific back workouts I could do to finally get rid of my problems.
Hope all that rambling made sense and thanks in advance for any replies
Dave

Hi, when you have bilateral (both sides) problems we would tend to look more centrally ie your neck. It sounds as if you are loading the neck and overstretching the brachial plexus (the nerves coming out of your neck into your arm). It would make sense that the shoulder shrugs helped because you are in effect unloading the neck. If you are sitting most of the day check that you are not slumping and depressing your shoulders. Also when you are bouldering make sure you are elongating (lengthening) your trunk and reaching upwards with your arms when traversing. Just a check because we see climbers that have neck and shoulder problems and they are not able to let there side trunk/back muscles lengthen and tend to pull downwards. Continue with your shoulder shrugs and also try shoulder press (arms above head) exercises with light to medium weights making sure you elevate your shoulders. If you have better shoulder and trunk positions you will feel stronger and also use your forearms less. Let me know if this helps.

I sometimes get a dull ache on the inside of my elbows, near where the bicep joins the elbow. It's been happening for a couple of years now, usually my right arm, and after a few sessions of powerful bouldering- anything really slappy or big locks between holds on steep ground. Usually clears up again in a couple of days with rest / pressups, etc. But it's becoming a bit annoying and I can't seem to completely get rid of it so any advice would be great, thanks

Hi, you could be compressing a nerve (median) when you are fully bending your elbow with a biceps contraction ie in locking out. Do you get any pins and needles or numbness? There are some nerve movements/mobilisations that may help, these involve taking your arm out to the side, straightening your elbow with your fingers pointing downwards (starting position is like carrying a tray) and look towards your hand. Then bend the elbow again and look the opposite way. Do about 30 of these twice daily. The other observations we would want to look at would be your shoulder position as you may be compensating. It could also be that you are compressing and loading the elbow and the joint is crumbling a bit. Ultimately it goes away which is good but it may require an assessment if it's getting worse or not clearing up. Let me know how you get on.
Regards Matt

Hi again, just noticed that you said both elbows can be a problem. If this is the case the above comments are still relevant but you may also be dropping/depressing your shoulders when locking out and causing a more general nerve stretch. Try lots of shoulder shrugs and look at your shoulder positions when climbing ie don't let them drop too much. regards
regards
matt

I sometimes get a dull ache on the inside of my elbows, near where the bicep joins the elbow. It's been happening for a couple of years now, usually my right arm, and after a few sessions of powerful bouldering- anything really slappy or big locks between holds on steep ground. Usually clears up again in a couple of days with rest / pressups, etc. But it's becoming a bit annoying and I can't seem to completely get rid of it so any advice would be great, thanks

Hi, you could be compressing a nerve (median) when you are fully bending your elbow with a biceps contraction ie in locking out. Do you get any pins and needles or numbness? There are some nerve movements/mobilisations that may help, these involve taking your arm out to the side, straightening your elbow with your fingers pointing downwards (starting position is like carrying a tray) and look towards your hand. Then bend the elbow again and look the opposite way. Do about 30 of these twice daily. The other observations we would want to look at would be your shoulder position as you may be compensating. It could also be that you are compressing and loading the elbow and the joint is crumbling a bit. Ultimately it goes away which is good but it may require an assessment if it's getting worse or not clearing up. Let me know how you get on.
Regards Matt

[mctrials23]

For about the last 3 months I have had a problem in the top of my forearm. It has never been too painful to climb on and after about an hour and half of climbing the issue is pretty much non existent.

If i put my forearm palm down on a table, the problem is pretty much at the top of the forearm in the centre. Its about 2 inches away from the elbow crease. It just feels like there is tension in there a lot of the time and when I climb on it there is a lot of pressure in there and it gets pumped really quickly and doesn't go away properly till about an hour and a half into climbing.

I have tried massaging it, icing it, stretching it, and all sorts of dumbell and elastic band based exercises to help it but nothing really works.

I can not climb on it for a week and the dull pressure feeling goes away a bit but then it comes back without provocation and without me climbing on it. Its usually when I am not at work for a while that this happens as I am a lot more active so my arm is not by a keyboard all day, it is by my side or moving a lot more as I am out and about.

Any ideas on what this could be or any tests I can do to help you advise me. Anything like brushing my teeth sets it off. It doesn't hurt it, it just feels like the pressure in there builds up and the whole forearm aches / gets pumped.

None of the classic tennis elbow aggravating actions cause any pain at all and I would have said its too far from the elbow to be that anyway. Please help.

[stow]

Hi,
Great clinic.

This might be a new one for you.
I have a chronic ache on the inside of my R elbow - a few inches down from the joint. Sometimes burning pain like tendonitis. Hurts more when I flex my elbow completely and then pronate or supinate my arm - hurts most at the end of the pronation and supination.  Lock-offs hurt. I was thinking maybe distal bicep tendonitis and started doing reverse curls (15lb) but this seemed to make it worse. Injured it in the spring doing repeated compression sloper moves kind of slapping a big sloper and rotating the arm in.

Of course i didn't let it rest and now it seems to be getting worse. After a session I've recently started to get some little clicking deep in the forearm (like trigger finger feeling) when I pronate my arm w elbow a little flexed.

Any ideas welcome. Thanks!

[Physiotherapy]

thanks to all i'm Glad to visitor of this post !

 

[Ti_pin_man]

Great thread.

Doctor I have a problem... thats how I'm supposed to start these right?   

Ok right hand ring finger, on inside of first knuckle is sore when pushed, feel it when climbing, doesnt stop me doing much but I've been steering away from really pinchy routes and last night I start to use fingerboard and avoided two finger hangs using that finger but also towards the end felt it on three finger open hands.  After 6 weeks its now less painful than it was.

I'm guessing I've just strained the pully on that side and avoiding use of it, massaging it occasionally will let it slowly recover?

Cheers me dear. 

[HPclinic]

For about the last 3 months I have had a problem in the top of my forearm. It has never been too painful to climb on and after about an hour and half of climbing the issue is pretty much non existent.

If i put my forearm palm down on a table, the problem is pretty much at the top of the forearm in the centre. Its about 2 inches away from the elbow crease. It just feels like there is tension in there a lot of the time and when I climb on it there is a lot of pressure in there and it gets pumped really quickly and doesn't go away properly till about an hour and a half into climbing.

I have tried massaging it, icing it, stretching it, and all sorts of dumbell and elastic band based exercises to help it but nothing really works.

I can not climb on it for a week and the dull pressure feeling goes away a bit but then it comes back without provocation and without me climbing on it. Its usually when I am not at work for a while that this happens as I am a lot more active so my arm is not by a keyboard all day, it is by my side or moving a lot more as I am out and about.

Any ideas on what this could be or any tests I can do to help you advise me. Anything like brushing my teeth sets it off. It doesn't hurt it, it just feels like the pressure in there builds up and the whole forearm aches / gets pumped.

None of the classic tennis elbow aggravating actions cause any pain at all and I would have said its too far from the elbow to be that anyway. Please help.

Hi, it sounds like you could be compressing or irritating a nerve. The median nerve travels down the middle of your arm. I would check that your neck movements are full ie forward, backward and rotatory movements. You are feeling it when you are moving and it is down by your side so i would also check that your shoulder on the side of the problem isn't dropped as this may be tractioning/stretching your neck on this side. You may also be doing this compensatory movement when you climb. I would try doing exercises to encourage shoulder elevation such as shoulder presses but make sure you are reaching up and streching your side trunk muscles and you will then not be depressing your shoulder. See how you go and get back to me if you are compensating. regards Matt

[HPclinic]

Hi,
Great clinic.

This might be a new one for you.
I have a chronic ache on the inside of my R elbow - a few inches down from the joint. Sometimes burning pain like tendonitis. Hurts more when I flex my elbow completely and then pronate or supinate my arm - hurts most at the end of the pronation and supination.  Lock-offs hurt. I was thinking maybe distal bicep tendonitis and started doing reverse curls (15lb) but this seemed to make it worse. Injured it in the spring doing repeated compression sloper moves kind of slapping a big sloper and rotating the arm in.

Of course i didn't let it rest and now it seems to be getting worse. After a session I've recently started to get some little clicking deep in the forearm (like trigger finger feeling) when I pronate my arm w elbow a little flexed.

Any ideas welcome. Thanks!

Hi, it sounds like you could be irritating a nerve rather than a tendon. The median nerve travels down the middle of your arm and the ulnar on the inside. The nerves go through and are underneath/ontop of muscles so when they are irritated they can easily be provoked when compressing them (locking off) and moving muscles that are close by. I would check that your neck movements are full ie forward, backward and rotatory movements. You need to back off from the climbing for a few weeks and then return to lower grades and increase as able. Get a friend to look at how you are climbing and make sure you are not compensating and doing different things with that arm and side. See how you go and you may need a consultation if not settling.regards matt

[HPclinic]

Great thread.

Doctor I have a problem... thats how I'm supposed to start these right?   

Ok right hand ring finger, on inside of first knuckle is sore when pushed, feel it when climbing, doesnt stop me doing much but I've been steering away from really pinchy routes and last night I start to use fingerboard and avoided two finger hangs using that finger but also towards the end felt it on three finger open hands.  After 6 weeks its now less painful than it was.

I'm guessing I've just strained the pully on that side and avoiding use of it, massaging it occasionally will let it slowly recover?

Cheers me dear.

Hi, i think you could be right. You could also be overloading the finger joint. Whatever the problem you have done the right thing by decreasing the load and allowing it to recover somewhat. Have a look at the video by Alison Macfarlane further back (not sure what page) that discusses pulley/finger injuries and cumulative strains and loads. Regards
Matt

[saltbeef]

quick question, regarding medial epicondylitis (?) I've got pain on the inside of my left elbow - medial epicondyle, presumably from an acute tear thrashing about and not resting enough, been achey for about a fortnight now. It hasn't stopped me climbing, but it isn't diminishing (I haven't tempered my grade - this may be the issue). I've been doing the eccentrics, stretching and some postural/antagonistic work as described in your previous posts, alongside some judicious icing. Should I be having a period off (week or 2?)in order for the pain to settle? (- it can occur on such minimal activities as putting the handbrake on. )

[Ti_pin_man]

Cheers Matt , will look the video up now.   

[mctrials23]

Hi, it sounds like you could be compressing or irritating a nerve. The median nerve travels down the middle of your arm. I would check that your neck movements are full ie forward, backward and rotatory movements. You are feeling it when you are moving and it is down by your side so i would also check that your shoulder on the side of the problem isn't dropped as this may be tractioning/stretching your neck on this side. You may also be doing this compensatory movement when you climb. I would try doing exercises to encourage shoulder elevation such as shoulder presses but make sure you are reaching up and streching your side trunk muscles and you will then not be depressing your shoulder. See how you go and get back to me if you are compensating. regards Matt

Firstly, thank you for replying to my post.

I ended up going to see the physio at my local wall and she said that I had the early stages of tennis elbow and had done for quite a while. She suggested that due to all the different exercises I had been doing to fix it for the last few months I had staved off full blown tennis elbow but kept it low lever and persistent. Because I never knew exactly what it was I hadn't done enough of any particular treatment to fix it but it was enough to keep it from progressing. She massages a rather big knot out of my forearm muscle just below the elbow tendon and advised me to keep doing this and to do palm down wrist curls and ice it.

It does seem to be getting better and its nowhere near as pressured as it was before so I think its working but since you mention my shoulders I will try to explain what I am feeling there. The issue is with the right arm to start with. Putting my neck backwards, forwards is fine and doesn't stretch much in the neck. When the neck rolls to the left or right I can feel a stretch. Going to the left feels tighter (so the right hand side of the neck muscles are tighter?)

 If I stretch my arm above my head with a slightly bent arm I can feel a twinge in the front of the deltoid where it joins the bicep and I definitely feel it more in the right arm than the left. I have started doing some shoulder presses as you suggested with 12.5kg in each hand and can do about 12 reps before I get fatigued but I have only done these for about a week now (every few days and perhaps 3 sets each time).

Should I be upping the weight and lowering the reps or vice versa and does what I have said above make any sense. I don't think the physio is particularly climbing focussed but she seemed to know what she was talking about so it would be good to have a second opinion / advice.

Thanks again.

[HPclinic]

quick question, regarding medial epicondylitis (?) I've got pain on the inside of my left elbow - medial epicondyle, presumably from an acute tear thrashing about and not resting enough, been achey for about a fortnight now. It hasn't stopped me climbing, but it isn't diminishing (I haven't tempered my grade - this may be the issue). I've been doing the eccentrics, stretching and some postural/antagonistic work as described in your previous posts, alongside some judicious icing. Should I be having a period off (week or 2?)in order for the pain to settle? (- it can occur on such minimal activities as putting the handbrake on. )

If the pain is not getting worse with climbing I would continue.  Tissues respond well to load and its part of the stimulus to recovery and repair (its a myth that we need complete rest for tissue repair) .  Don't increase the grade until the pain has settled but try adding neck stretches to your routine and see if that resolves the issues faster.  Tell us how you get on.
Cheers
Steve

[saltbeef]

Thanks for getting back to me and on the weekend too! I shall go and appall others with my ineptitude then!