[dave]

A rushed edit from the last few days

Good skills.

[Drew]

So does this mean we've got two more new problems? Ai Snow Corrida, and Dreadline?

What's the general beta on 3BM? I have done it previously and tried today going from the two good crimps up and left to the two slopers, then right toe on the starting hold, then a weird flag move to get the left hand in the pocket in the higher break, then stand up on the right foot, and put the left foot on the slopers. It got done today by keeping further right, with the left toe on the starting crimp, then a slightly dodgy foot match, and lots of pebble pinching.

[Duma]

I did it like you (as did everyone else there I saw) further right would put you disappointingly close to the crack no?

[mark20]

Anyone fancy 3 Blind Mice this afternoon/evening before the platform goes? Drop me a pm. I can get there for 4.30, then I'll head over to Shine On at Stanage with Chris205

[andyh]

As a public service request, if those heading out this week could do anything to keep the platforms topped up, that would be massively appreciated (especially the mental block and ai no corrida ones).

Thank you, thank you very much

[T_B]

My wife asked me last night who coined the phrase "snowballing" to mean highballing above snow, which got me wondering whether John Allen was the first snowballer with his ascent of Boys will be Boys (E6) at Stanage in 1986? Steve Adams and I 'snowballed' this back in 2000 (April 6th according to Steve) having read in the old Stanage guidebook that the first ascent was done above a massive drift. I wonder whether any other lines were specifically done before this in such a way i.e. with the help of snow    John Allen - what a ledge.

[Snoops]

My wife asked me last night who coined the phrase "snowballing" to mean highballing above snow, which got me wondering whether John Allen was the first snowballer with his ascent of Boys will be Boys (E6) at Stanage in 1986? Steve Adams and I 'snowballed' this back in 2000 (April 6th according to Steve) having read in the old Stanage guidebook that the first ascent was done above a massive drift. I wonder whether any other lines were specifically done before this in such a way i.e. with the help of snow    John Allen - what a ledge.

Careful who you tell you've been snowballing

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=snowballing

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snowballing_(sexual_practice)

[Tom de Gay]

9 toez got the 'big' unclimbed wall right of White Wand yesterday.

9 is Enuff 7A+

Without the 25ft drift this would prob be an E8 so get it whilst you can:

Great stuff! Had a look at this years back (no snow) and recall that getting past the overlap is fairly nails. Would be a fantastic ground up project as the drift gradually recedes – meltpointing?

[Bonjoy]

I thought 7a for the righthand beta on Deadline (I vote this be called Undeadline). Like others have said, I can see why a short person climbing above a pointy block would use more direct beta. Also don’t forget with the current snow level the pocket is gained with one move off the arete, rather than traversing in from the Storm as per the FA, maybe this also makes a difference.
So nobody’s tried out the Boys will be Boys landing yet (did a bit more work on this on Monday eve)? I gave it a brief play on very tired arms after building up the landing on Saturday and got up to a committing blind move, LH undercutting, RH in shallow 2 finger pocket. Can you recall any beta on the next bit Tom? How’s the top bit after the break?
Would like to have a post work session on this tomorrow if anyone is keen??
I’ve found that as the snow is now quite old it can be hard to move using a shovel in some places. A pruning saw works a treat as a snow saw and is a good quick way to build stuff up, especially if you want to stick blocks on the side of a platform to widen it.
I’ve got something like this:

[andy popp]

a committing blind move, LH undercutting, RH in shallow 2 finger pocket. Can you recall any beta on the next bit Tom? How’s the top bit after the break?

That sounds familiar even back through the mists of time. I think the top out is pretty steady, I didn't bother taking a rope and cam for it.

[Gritlad]

I would be keen to give a try tomorrow bonjoy. Had a look monday day and the top section was still wet so didn't try it.
On "undeadline" I did start from the Storm and although it adds a bit, its not that much providing your not too short....
Felt 7A to me from the storm. Nice enough problem

[Andy B]

I thought 7a for the righthand beta on Deadline (I vote this be called Undeadline). Like others have said, I can see why a short person climbing above a pointy block would use more direct beta. Also don’t forget with the current snow level the pocket is gained with one move off the arete, rather than traversing in from the Storm as per the FA, maybe this also makes a difference.

We all did it with a traverse in from the storm. It's a bit harder than coming in from the right (some people couldn't do the match in the pocket) but nothing too significant. Personally I don't think that this is a different problem to Deadline, just that an easier sequence has been found. From my (possibly wrong) memory of el mocho doing it he was basically in the same position as the new sequence (slightly higher right heel) but reached to a different right hand hold. In my opinion it would be better to just down grade deadline (although I bet it feels less like 7a in that position high above nasty blocks) than have a multitude of eliminates on this classic block.

[Bonjoy]

I agree. The new name thing was only a pisstake.

[Andy B]

Oops, sorry Jon, people were talking seriously about it being a different problem the other day.

[andy_e]

Does Careless Youth have a landing now? Has it ever been repeated?

[Andy B]

Andy Harris has repeated it. I started making a landing and cleared most of the top the other day. I'm planning on finishing the job this afternoon if I can.

[grimer]

On Boys will be Boys I remember, a looooong time ago, somehow reaching up to a pocket with my left then coming up to a small undercut below it with my right, then making a long reach for good holds with me left (maybe in the break) then a 5b move to finish. That could be wrong.

[Bonjoy]

I think your memory might be a bit scrambled unless I'm wildly off the mark. The undercut seems definately one for the left hand and is a metre or so below the pocket  .

Did some more work on the Careless Youth Landing with another guy (didn't know his name), on Monday. It had a great platform by the time we finished, he'd swept the top clear and the melt water was nearly dry.

[T_B]

So nobody’s tried out the Boys will be Boys landing yet (did a bit more work on this on Monday eve)? I gave it a brief play on very tired arms after building up the landing on Saturday and got up to a committing blind move, LH undercutting, RH in shallow 2 finger pocket. Can you recall any beta on the next bit Tom? How’s the top bit after the break?
Would like to have a post work session on this tomorrow if anyone is keen??

I can remember the l-hand undercut and pocket then the crux being a committing step up with your left foot high on a ramp (?) to get height and reach something hidden with your right hand that's actually good when you get it. The rest is easy. I'm pretty good at remembering moves, but it was 14 years ago so take that with a pinch of salt 

[cofe]

It would be good to see Careless Youth get a few ascents. Shame about the landing in normal conditions.

[Gritlad]

The Promise was wet by 2 today  Wet streak creeped down into the pocket and lower crimp. Doesn't look to be any more snow up there so should dry up soon ish. Good landing too, would be fine with one or 2 pads but a spotter might be handy

[El Mocho]

The Promise was wet by 2 today  Wet streak creeped down into the pocket and lower crimp. Doesn't look to be any more snow up there so should dry up soon ish. Good landing too, would be fine with one or 2 pads but a spotter might be handy

Whole block dry when I left about 9 this morning - you just need to get up early (better friction then - cloudy and only reaching 3 degrees by 10.00 tomorrow, -1 at 7.00) I was there before 8 today.

I was going to shovel the last bits off the top this am but it was all still frozen.

[Gritlad]

Yeah, I did wake up early but couldnt get out there until later. Don't suppose you know if the streak dries off by evening time do you El Mocho?

[El Mocho]

Don't know, if you cleared all the snow that was causing the streak then maybe - once the cause has gone it should dry out, the block will be in the sun till quite late? I thought the top of the Promise was all clear from snow, the only streaks I have seen has been down LIO

[Gritlad]

I think there was still a small amount of snow in the break so hopefully it should be the last of it and will dry out 
thanks for the pointers