[tomtom]

Hello,
Sadly I've broken a crucial hold on Babybloc this morning. It's the RH small crimp I'm holding in the picture below. It broke when I stood on it whilst getting the very top holds (as I'd done previously) and the edge of the crimp came away. Sadly as the crimp was small in the first place it's now not really a hold and I'm not sure how the problem can be done. I went up to inspect my damage and its unusable as a hand hold.

I'm really gutted as its such a cool problem and now no-one else can do it really sorry everyone...

It's possible what's left of the hold could be improved with a little 'abrasive cleaning' to make it usable again (and thus the problem do-able) but that's obviously controversial and a last resort. Unfortunately it makes the problem much much harder as the hold is really useless now as a crimp - and was part of 'the' move that made it one of the best problems ive ever done.

[SpanishJuan]

sorry to hear that tom tom, as it's a good route. In my eyes its just one of those sandstone things if its still slightly moist it can become a bit ephemeral in nature. I won't hold it against you.

Mrs Juan unfortunately and unexpectedly removed a large (hand sized, but not important for the route) block from the base of Trilogy, on the green slab at frogsmouth a few weeks ago. I decided not to head out again on the sandstone for some time (apart from to pex!). She decided to avoid sandstone for the rest of time, as she felt hugely guilt ridden about her vandalism.

[tomtom]

Gutted as its such a cool problem... and that hold has always looked/felt bomber.. looked perfect when I went up and brushed it..   its just a 3-4mm edge thats gone, but sadly that was all of the hold :/

I didn't think it was due to conditions.. Harmers has been dry for 2-3 weeks now and 'twas bone dry this morning - under the broken hold (the scar) was dry too.. 

[andy popp]

This is my problem so I'm sorry its broken, but I do feel its just one of those things; a fact of life in Cheshire. I was wondering if it might be able to basically the same sequence but using the low slot and holding the 'Monoblock' hold to go up with right? If a new sequence can't be found then we have to accept its defunct.

[tomtom]

This is my problem so I'm sorry its broken, but I do feel its just one of those things; a fact of life in Cheshire. I was wondering if it might be able to basically the same sequence but using the low slot and holding the 'Monoblock' hold to go up with right? If a new sequence can't be found then we have to accept its defunct.

That might work - I was wondering how hard it would be to keep yourself in with that low slot.. I didnt think to try it this morning, just went up to the scar a couple of times to see if it was usable still.. For me the problem is all on the left foot - once thats on up high and my weight is over it, I can almost do anything with my arms...

Ho hum - I doubt it'll be easier

[SA Chris]

fact hunt

[andy_e]

Meh, don't sweat it- the crag wasn't there a million years ago and it won't be there in a million years... It still looks possible though, what are you crimping with your left?

[tomtom]

Meh, don't sweat it- the crag wasn't there a million years ago and it won't be there in a million years... It still looks possible though, what are you crimping with your left?

Thin (1/2 lego brick) edge.. I think Andy might be right - still possible but with high LH and low RH in the slot on the same level my LF is on in the pic.. will require a little (ahem) flexibility..

[SA Chris]

So you ticked the problem and gave yourself a project in one fell swoop, what's the issue?

[tomtom]

So you ticked the problem and gave yourself a project in one fell swoop, what's the issue?

No one else can now do the old problem - the way it was done before.. Though I may well have been doing it a lanksters way..

[SA Chris]

Who cares about everyone else, you ticked it!

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