[nai]

Was on Deadline briefly today, with a few other folk of this parish I believe.  Think consensus was that if you didn't have a load of thick pads and even thicker snow beneath you the new way would be scary enough to be fairly off-putting but the original line would make it easier to jump/drop off and potentially land ok.  Don't forget you'd be above the pointy blocks of Beneath the Breadline at that point which require multiple paddage when exposed.

[El Mocho]

This won't be much help - I think I just went to the top with my left. I just remember pushing the big pocket out until my fingers hurt.

[nai]

Just thought, doesn't Ben does BtB on the Real Thing? But I don't recall him going around into the original, does he do this finish or something similar?

[205Chris]

Just thought, doesn't Ben does BtB on the Real Thing? But I don't recall him going around into the original, does he do this finish or something similar?

I think he climbs Adults Only but it's mistakenly captioned as Breadline.

[nai]

Ah, not paying attention obviously, I thought he did BtB labelled incorrectly

[205Chris]

As well as grades can I suggest people give some idea of the state that platforms are in. I think Johnny Brown suggested something like this a few years ago:

*** - It's a boulder problem, no spotters required (e.g. Big Air / Breadline)
** - Highball, but relatively safe. Take a couple mats / spotters (e.g. Three Blind Mice)
* - Crux is safe but bring your topping out skills (e.g. Goosey Goosey Gander)

As of yesterday at Stanage:

Silk - ** / ***
Most stuff on the mental block - ***
Cemetery / Shine On - **
No More Excuses / Crews Pegs / Embarrassment of Riches - */**
Slap and Spittle / Turtle Power **
Goosey Goosey Gander *

[RopeBoy]

Anyone know what Shock Horrow Slab and DIY are like?

Might pop out o the Plantation now as it seems to melting faster today.

J :-)

[Jim]

well, I'm definately keen for tomorrow.
Ideally I'd like to pop to bbg north first and do 3BM and ANC then go to stanage.
However I'm a complete coward at the moment and need plenty of egging on on anything thats higher than 6ft

[205Chris]

If anyone else is keen I'm planning on heading to Shine On / Cemetery tomorrow but it won't be till around 5 or so due to work.

[Gritlad]

Is anyone keen to get on the promises tomorrow? Would love to give it a good go above pads

[Wood FT]

Is anyone keen to get on the promise* tomorrow? Would love to give it a good go above pads

I think James Noble is keen, can pm you his number?

[Gritlad]

Yeah cheers guy. Think I know him vaguely from seeing him at the plantation

[tomtom]

Hi Dolly - don't make any plans involving me tomorrow... I'm still on -7hours time, so god knows how I'll feel tomorrow... very much take it as it comes...

[lagerstarfish]

Hi Dolly - don't make any plans involving me tomorrow... I'm still on -7hours time, so god knows how I'll feel tomorrow... very much take it as it comes...

Big Air has your name all over it Tomtom

[slackline]

Anyone know what Shock Horrow Slab and DIY are like?

I walked as far as Counts Buttress Saturday and if I clocked the right area/slab that Shirleys Shining Temple and Shock Horror Slab are on you couldn't see any rock.

Should have nipped round and kicked some steps up as its about the only chance I'll have of getting up that slab any time soon. 

[Dolly]

OK cheers TT, will see how it goes.
Lagers is right about big air for you 
What time approx will you be there Jim ? not sure what time I can leave work for a looooong lunch yet

[dave]

Was on Deadline briefly today, with a few other folk of this parish I believe.  Think consensus was that if you didn't have a load of thick pads and even thicker snow beneath you the new way would be scary enough to be fairly off-putting but the original line would make it easier to jump/drop off and potentially land ok.  Don't forget you'd be above the pointy blocks of Beneath the Breadline at that point which require multiple paddage when exposed.

Thats certainly my thoughts too, the new beta seems suicidal without the snow, it'd be a pretty nasty fall. From what I remember of old OTEs I think heading more up the sub-rib is probably the original way. Would Richie had used a heel? Probably not.

I had a look up at YMCA later on and stamped out a perfunctory platform as I forgot my shovel. Lots of drips at the moment though....and also falling water from above.

One other thing - fucking boiling today in the sun, I think I've got snowblindness.

[Johnny Brown]

Hmmm, not sure I picked the right week to go on holiday to Wales. Hopefully it will last, barring a week of mild rain we should be okay for a bit...

Shirleys Shining Temple and Shock Horror Slab are on you couldn't see any rock.

Back in 2010 Shirley's was buried for 3 months, and Daydreamer etc were nearly as bad. Seems to collect a lot of snow that bit!

Deadline definitely went direct up the sub-rib not right into Breadline - you can do that a few ways at various heights. Patta headpointed it remember!

Ai no is way easier if you stay left and climb it using both aretes. I've done it three ways - stretching across from right fin, as per that pic, and fridge hug. The way as in the pic - just using the main arete - is great, but much harder/ scarier than the fridge hug. No idea how it was first done. Andi/y_e, that wall to the right is a tad scary sans snow but not in the same league as the others hereabouts!

Anyone actually done Turtle power? Seems hard!

Mad for it, keep up the good work on the digging folks!

[AlistairB]

Keen for Stanage tomorrow from early afternoon onwards. Chris I'm well up for Shine On, can bring a couple of pads up, happy to stay late so 5 would be fine. If anyone else is around earlier and fancies a team Big Air effort that'd be great. Also keen to check out White Wand & Archangel.

Went to Burbage tonight, too hot in the sun at times! ANC platform seemed ok, TBM is getting a bit narrow (less than a pad) at the right (start) end, also seemed easy to fall through in places. Might be best to go soon if you want to do it. I wimped out standing up for fear of falling past the back of the platform, probably fine though.

Cheers to all the platform builders!

[al]

Deadline definitely went direct up the sub-rib not right into Breadline

true, and as dave says no heel hooks either - patta was basically footless as usual (me and moony were supposed to be spotting him, but ran away when he got on the top bit)

[205Chris]

A rushed edit from the last few days

[Will Hunt]

Grades.

I only really did Big Air and thought it 6b. Was genuinely quite shocked to miss the jug on the first couple of jumps (punter). Once you've got the jug its fine.

What's the consensus of beta for Stanage Without Oxygen? Initially tried it going up and over with left hand to a pebble pinchy thing and matching. This made it difficult to get over to the left as the match was poor. Then tried a heel-toe lock, undercutting with LH and going up RH first. This felt better but by this point I'd lost all the skin on my tips. Shoring it up with superglue and tape all day had done my climbing ability no favours!

Definitely a ** platform. Needs a close spot for heel lock and then a step back and down for the big move onto the break. Spicy!

[Duma]

Nice. Cast of UKB regulars there. Oli's turn ups are a thing of beauty.

[Gritlad]

What's the consensus of beta for Stanage Without Oxygen?

hand jam with your left, over to good sloper with right, high left foot, quick match then to good hold with left. This may be a little height dependent but not that much, over 5' 8" should be fine. lots of feet.

Nice video as well chris!

[RopeBoy]

Anyone know what Shock Horrow Slab and DIY are like?

I walked as far as Counts Buttress Saturday and if I clocked the right area/slab that Shirleys Shining Temple and Shock Horror Slab are on you couldn't see any rock.

Should have nipped round and kicked some steps up as its about the only chance I'll have of getting up that slab any time soon. 

Yeah, looked pretty covered to me from the Plantation and road.

Might take a shovel out and see if I can find it :-)

Good evening at the Plantation, lots of things getting ticked :-)
Never seen so many ascents of Big Air, Archangel, the Don and White Wand - handy beta for coming back and doing them properly :-)