[Jim]

without knowing what car it is, but assuming its a VW, there are a lot of VAG car forums out there. That would be the best place to start

[Will Hunt]

It's a 2013 Fabia. Each annual service has been done at a Skoda dealership.

[Paul B]

It's a 2013 Fabia. Each annual service has been done at a Skoda dealership.

Briskoda is what you're looking for.

[chris j]

I looked into this recently with my 2010 1.8TSi Octavia. My understanding is that on the whole family of TSi engines across VW/Audi/Skoda/Seat there was a defective design of timing chain tensioner, which tends to break, mostly on start-up and results in the engine lunching itself. I believe VAG went through 4 designs of tensioner between 2010 and 2012 so yours being a 2013 should have the latest design. There wasn't any recall to update earlier designs, though there were technical service bulletins, if the tensioner was replaced on a car it was as a preventative measure at the owner's expense (£5-600 at an indy, £800+ at main dealer...).

HTH

[Will Hunt]

Ta. It sounds like I should be in the clear but will take it to the dealer regardless. The actuator makes a funny noise, which I hadn't noticed but the garage pointed out to me. I believe this is a common thing and may not actually be a problem but I'll see what they say.

Thread on briskoda if anyone is interested. The guy who has replied to me doesn't seem to be giving the full picture as its fairly well documented that TSIs, certainly up till 2013, had big problems with chains.
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402697-2013-12-tsi-timing-chain/

[James Malloch]

Does anyone know much about the differences between automatics and manuals?

I'm not bothered by the driving as such as I've used both, but I'm interested in the reliability of them. Seen a reasonable offer on a 2013 berlingo locally but it's an automatic.

I'm assuming that these days they are pretty reliable, but guess that any repair costs are likely to be higher?

It's only got 30k on the clock so I'd hope it would be okay but as it's something I'd like to use over the next 4 years I want to make sure it's going to last and hold a reasonable amount of value (not sure if it would depreciate more with higher miles etc compared to a manual?).

Any thoughts would be welcomed.

[tomtom]

Two types of automatics now. Those that have 6 or 7 gears and are more like a manual box that shifts automatically and the older type with a torque converter and typically 4 or 5 gears.

Typically the torque converter type are c10-20% less good on fuel but possibly (brand dependent) more reliable. They're also often slower...

Servicing costs can be higher on an auto sometimes - if something goes wrong with an auto box it can be expensive (as can be with a manual, but manual boxes are less complicated but often more reliable).

If it's been regularly serviced with only 30k on the clock then it's probably not so much of an issue (reliability/longevity wise).

Autos are much easier to drive in stop start traffic

[James Malloch]

Cheers Tom. It's a 6-speed semi auto so I guess it's the non torque version that you mentioned. It's got a FSH (though I'm unsure of the exact frequency) but the MOT is due in 5 months which I might try to get included if I go for it. They also do full service if it's due before sale as it's a main dealer.

The stop-start aspect is what interests me too, plus the cruise control. Having messed my knee up last year running driving can often be painful so the combination of an Auto and CC is very appealing.

One thing that strikes me is that it's from a main dealer but is the cheapest on auto trader for that kind of mileage and age - something that's not often the case. And it's cheaper than similar specs of the same vehicle from the same dealer. Will hopefully go and look at it this weekend.

It's outside my ideal budget really but it might be worth going for to try and avoid repair costs over the coming years (plus resale value).

[sdm]

Cheers Tom. It's a 6-speed semi auto so I guess it's the non torque version that you mentioned. It's got a FSH (though I'm unsure of the exact frequency) but the MOT is due in 5 months which I might try to get included if I go for it. They also do full service if it's due before sale as it's a main dealer.

The stop-start aspect is what interests me too, plus the cruise control. Having messed my knee up last year running driving can often be painful so the combination of an Auto and CC is very appealing.

One thing that strikes me is that it's from a main dealer but is the cheapest on auto trader for that kind of mileage and age - something that's not often the case. And it's cheaper than similar specs of the same vehicle from the same dealer. Will hopefully go and look at it this weekend.

It's outside my ideal budget really but it might be worth going for to try and avoid repair costs over the coming years (plus resale value).

I looked at an automatic Berlingo when I upgraded a few months back. It was a great deal with just 13k on the clock and being a similar price to ones with 50k (previous owner was a 75 year old lady who barely drove anymore). In the end, I went for a manual one that had done a few more miles but was £2,500 cheaper.

The claimed mpg on the automatic was actually slightly better than the manuals although I wouldn't put much faith in to those figures.

The automatic was surprisingly good to drive. The stop/start coped fine on some steep hill starts and it was better than I expected at overtaking in semi-manual mode.

One minor annoyance was that you can't switch between automatic and manual modes unless you are stationary, meaning you can't keep it in automatic then switch to manual in order to drop it down a gear to overtake a slow vehicle. You don't buy a Berlingo for its overtaking abilities though so I wouldn't worry about that too much.

On the subject of cruise control, you can easily retrofit it on most berlingos, just check it has the right pedals before you buy.

[Paul B]

One thing that strikes me is that it's from a main dealer but is the cheapest on auto trader for that kind of mileage and age - something that's not often the case. And it's cheaper than similar specs of the same vehicle from the same dealer. Will hopefully go and look at it this weekend.

Alarm bells!

[James Malloch]

I looked at an automatic Berlingo when I upgraded a few months back. It was a great deal with just 13k on the clock and being a similar price to ones with 50k (previous owner was a 75 year old lady who barely drove anymore). In the end, I went for a manual one that had done a few more miles but was £2,500 cheaper.

The claimed mpg on the automatic was actually slightly better than the manuals although I wouldn't put much faith in to those figures.

The automatic was surprisingly good to drive. The stop/start coped fine on some steep hill starts and it was better than I expected at overtaking in semi-manual mode.

One minor annoyance was that you can't switch between automatic and manual modes unless you are stationary, meaning you can't keep it in automatic then switch to manual in order to drop it down a gear to overtake a slow vehicle. You don't buy a Berlingo for its overtaking abilities though so I wouldn't worry about that too much.

On the subject of cruise control, you can easily retrofit it on most berlingos, just check it has the right pedals before you buy.

Good to know about the cruise control - it's something I'd definitely like to have. Do you know if it's a reasonably cheap job?

I'm going to keep my eye out for manuals too - I'm not adverse to higher mileage but I think 50k is about my max as I'm hoping to put that on it over the next few years as well with trips to Europe a few times a year.

Alarm bells!

It's something I need to bear in mind - I'm not sure they'll provide their rationale though...
Need to do a bit more research and have a look - it could just have some scratches or something. Hard to tell from photos on a silver car.

[sdm]

I looked at an automatic Berlingo when I upgraded a few months back. It was a great deal with just 13k on the clock and being a similar price to ones with 50k (previous owner was a 75 year old lady who barely drove anymore). In the end, I went for a manual one that had done a few more miles but was £2,500 cheaper.

The claimed mpg on the automatic was actually slightly better than the manuals although I wouldn't put much faith in to those figures.

The automatic was surprisingly good to drive. The stop/start coped fine on some steep hill starts and it was better than I expected at overtaking in semi-manual mode.

One minor annoyance was that you can't switch between automatic and manual modes unless you are stationary, meaning you can't keep it in automatic then switch to manual in order to drop it down a gear to overtake a slow vehicle. You don't buy a Berlingo for its overtaking abilities though so I wouldn't worry about that too much.

On the subject of cruise control, you can easily retrofit it on most berlingos, just check it has the right pedals before you buy.

Good to know about the cruise control - it's something I'd definitely like to have. Do you know if it's a reasonably cheap job?

I'm going to keep my eye out for manuals too - I'm not adverse to higher mileage but I think 50k is about my max as I'm hoping to put that on it over the next few years as well with trips to Europe a few times a year.

Alarm bells!

It's something I need to bear in mind - I'm not sure they'll provide their rationale though...
Need to do a bit more research and have a look - it could just have some scratches or something. Hard to tell from photos on a silver car.

The stork can be picked up for about £30-40 if you source it yourself (most Citroëns use the same stork). Then it is just a case of popping out the plastic cover, clipping the stork in and then plugging it in to Citroën's software to change 2 values to turn it on.

If you can find a non-dealer garage with the software, you should be able to get it all done with plenty of change from £100.

[dave]

Ok car people, '04 1.9 TDI Passat, just started to get a fairly pronounced rumble knocking type thing when driving with the clutch depressed. Doesn't seem to be related to road or engine speed especially. Sounds rough. Can feel the clutch pedal vibrating when pressed. Any ideas, clutch release bearing? How's likely am I to further fuck this up by driving on it further?

[Paul B]

DMF.

£600-800 ish for a repair I'd say.

You don't particularly want it to fail totally IMO.

[tomtom]

Looking at the forums - clutch and parts (new release bearing and clutch etc..) £100-140 and DMF (dual mass flywheel) more like £250-350. That's for the parts. 3-5 hour job - labour cost xxx per hour etc...

Possibly close to a scrap it job...

Ps labour costs similar for both jobs - once he clutch is exposed dmf is too.

[dave]

You guys are no good, what I wanna be hearing right now is "oh yeah shouldn't be too bad, cheap fix" etc etc.

[Fultonius]

You guys are no good, what I wanna be hearing right now is "oh yeah shouldn't be too bad, cheap fix" etc etc.

Just wait a moment, I'm getting Ms May on the line:

"What's that, yes, yes, it's all going to be fine"

There you have it. No need to worry.

[dave]

http://m.imgur.com/CVcYtFJ?r

[dave]

Ok car people, '04 1.9 TDI Passat, just started to get a fairly pronounced rumble knocking type thing when driving with the clutch depressed. Doesn't seem to be related to road or engine speed especially. Sounds rough. Can feel the clutch pedal vibrating when pressed. Any ideas, clutch release bearing? How's likely am I to further fuck this up by driving on it further?

To add to this, only seems to start doing it once you've been driving for 5-10 mins, so something to do with it getting warm.

[Johnny Brown]

I had a new clutch/DMF pack on mine this summer, cost under a grand. Mine was due to slave cylinder failure though, clutch pedal slowly got squishier over a month or so.

[Paul B]

Like I said on Facebook it'll be worth fixing regardless as the courtesy car Passat (1.9 Tdi) I get to drive is now on 440k miles (they bought it off a customer at ~200k miles)!

[dave]

TBH I would rather painfully fork out for it to be fixed than have to go through the faff of buying a new motor right now, even if it'll cost more than the car is worth. Plus I really like that car and it'll probably be the only one I ever own that doesn't just have the basic level of trim and accessories. Gnnna be tough to walk away from those leather seats.

[SA Chris]

Gnnna be tough to peel myself off of, and then walk away from those sweaty leather seats.

[dave]

Annoying development - garage had car in and drove it around for 15 mins and it wasn't doing the bad noise/rumbling thing. I drove it yesterday for 20mins at least and it didn't do it either. Any idea if the clutch/DMF thing can be intermittent?

[tomtom]

Unlikely..