[GraemeA]

I was at the IFSC Plenary Assembly on Saturday and it was announced that if we get in it will be a single Overall medal with all 3 disciplines, based on the recommendation of the IOC Technical Commission.

One interesting aspect it that it gets rid of the possibility of ties

[abarro81]

Hold on, so the climbers would all compete in lead, boulder and speed in a triathlon style? I hope I've misunderstood what you mean because that sounds shit. F*ck speed climbing, it's  .

[SA Chris]

Agree it sounds shit. Fuck speed climbing.

[GraemeA]

Hold on, so the climbers would all compete in lead, boulder and speed in a triathlon style? I hope I've misunderstood what you mean because that sounds shit. F*ck speed climbing, it's  .

You have not misunderstood me

[abarro81]

Boo. I just unliked the facebook page in response.

[Baldy]

That sounds at once horrific yet also strangely intruiging.

It completely misses the whole background of 'climbing competitions' yet at the same time could potentially thrust some new people into the light as 'olympic climbers' instead of 'lead' or 'sport' climbers.

I'd prefer to see a single discipline for sure, but I would also be interested to see the outcome of that format.

[GraemeA]

It completely misses the whole background of 'climbing competitions'

What, those things that started in the 40's and 50's in the USSR 

[Stu Littlefair]

I'm not so sure this is shit. Speed climbing is exciting to look at (you know, for the TV peeps), so this probably increases the chances of climbing getting in. Plus, if it does, there'll be more climbing to watch. Finally, there used to be a few hybrid comps like these around (I remember doing one at the foundry with bouldering, onsight and redpoint rounds), and they are good fun to take part in.

[Jaspersharpe]

Boo. I just unliked the facebook page in response.

That'll learn em!

[mr__j5]

The world championships always awards a combined champion and it isn't usually anybody that doesn't deserve it: Ondra, McColl, Sasha.

However, it does use a stupid scoring system, which means that you don't need to be good at all 3 events. Just do really well in 1 and fairly well in another and turn up to the last one.

[GraemeA]

The world championships always awards a combined champion and it isn't usually anybody that doesn't deserve it: Ondra, McColl, Sasha.

However, it does use a stupid scoring system, which means that you don't need to be good at all 3 events. Just do really well in 1 and fairly well in another and turn up to the last one.

I think you are misunderstanding the scoring system. In the Overall you are only competing against the others in Overall. So whilst it might appear that Sean's Speed result is poor in relation to the specialists he was actually 1st in the Speed in respect to the Overall Championship. If there was an actual Overall event instead of just an amalgamation of the 3 disciplines it would seem different.

Ps this system was introduced in Paris so your comment was correct for previous World Championships

[mr__j5]

Ah yes, it used to be that they all just scored 0 points in speed.
I hadn't seen that it had changed to a more sensible system.

[Moo]

 

This kind of goes to show why climbing for the olympics is just bollocks. The general public just don't see the difference, how many people on here have a gran that thinks they climb huge mountains on their weekends?

Would it be better to try and give a true representation of our sport or just do a lib dem and sell out to get what we can to make some cash. I know what the manufacturers answer to that will be.

[Jaspersharpe]

It's not going to be a "true representation of our sport" however they package it though. It's going to be a representation of competition climbing which, as Graeme pointed out, started with speed climbing anyway. I can see the logic as a way to make it as palatable as possible for the IOC.

[Nibile]

F*ck speed climbing, it's  .

You only say so because kneebars take a lot of time.

[slackline]

 

[Dave Flanagan]

Graeme, what do you think are climbing's chances of getting in?
I have talked to a lot of climbers who assume it's a dead-cert but have read on a few (non-climbing) sites that they rate its chances as very low.

[SA Chris]

In the other thread it was considered a rank outsider?

[Bonjoy]

The cherry on the logcake 

[GraemeA]

Graeme, what do you think are climbing's chances of getting in?
I have talked to a lot of climbers who assume it's a dead-cert but have read on a few (non-climbing) sites that they rate its chances as very low.

I have no idea. The IFSC Board were obviously being optimistic at the meetings over the weekend but you wouldn't expect them to be anything else in public.

I guess the worry is wrestling and the Putin effect. There are obviously reasons why the IOC dumped wrestling and it is hard to believe that any problems could be rectified in 6 months.

[cheque]

How about a pentathlon where they also have to do abseiling races and climb with one of the Gladiators chasing them?

[Jaspersharpe]

I hope the speed climbing is across a massive roof on jugs with a bell to ring at the finish. And Matthew Kelly.

[GraemeA]

I hope the speed climbing is across a massive roof on jugs with a bell to ring at the finish. And Matthew Kelly.

And Streaky on top of the wall telling you exactly how long you have got left.

And Chrissie belaying

[petejh]

I think it's a great idea. Best all-rounder, why not? Even if speed climbing is bollocks it'd be cool as fuck to see Ondra racing someone.

[Grubes]

I for one am really looking forward to BBC going to the expert correspondence and competition summary from Kenton cool and Joe Simpson.