UKBouldering.com

It's all in yer genes! (Read 13213 times)

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 11:11:55 am
Hi all,
The forgoten classic gets a second ascent...
http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/8.html

P.S. Sorry know this is blowing my own trumpet (if only I could) a bit, but I think its a worthwhile piece of news, in our parts at least.  :?

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#1 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 11:18:34 am
I have seen it and it is very good, Nice1.

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#2 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 11:20:24 am
Nice one  :)

Like the name "Carlisle Slappers" for that other problem too...

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#3 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 12:40:05 pm
Genius problem and a fucking good effort by Greg. Absolutely makes a mockery of Peak ideas of a good traverse (step forward the second half of Jerry's traverse, or the polished footholds of Powerband), top notch rock and moves. Can I have V10 for getting to the last move last year? Ah well! Nice one Greg, let the floodgates open  :8)

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#4 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 01:00:22 pm
Quote from: "Nigel"
Genius problem and a fucking good effort by Greg. Absolutely makes a mockery of Peak ideas of a good traverse (step forward the second half of Jerry's traverse, or the polished footholds of Powerband), top notch rock and moves. Can I have V10 for getting to the last move last year? Ah well! Nice one Greg, let the floodgates open  :8)

 Go do Sweet Release and the eatswood Traverse then come back and tell me about peak traverses :wink:

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#5 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 01:05:14 pm
to be fair powerband int that bad. it does start and end in the middle of nowhere and isn't really a line, but after working on it recently the moves really are quite good and the holds aren't painful - a rare treat on peak crimestone.

so there. :blows raspberry:

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#6 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 01:12:45 pm
Not to mention Jerry's Traverse at Cratcliffe - superb line.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#7 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 01:30:54 pm
Inertia Reel trav has got to be the best trav in the country, if not the PEAK.

dave

  • Guest
#8 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 01:39:29 pm
Quote from: "cofe"
isn't really a line,


it is a line - its following a break for christ sake, what more of a line do you want? :roll:

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#9 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 01:43:45 pm
Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "cofe"
isn't really a line,


it is a line - its following a break for christ sake, what more of a line do you want? :roll:


yeah but you don't walk up to that end of raven tor, look at the rock and go  :idea:

who cares.

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
#10 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 02:00:09 pm
Not that Im totally grade orientated  :oops: but be interesting to know how the Peak Limestone traverses compare to the South Lakes ones.

The Big G commented that when he did Hybrid Moments he was going to give it V10 but as Stamina Band was widly excepted as V11 he had to give it V11 as its slightly harder  :?

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
#11 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 02:11:17 pm
I have just realised what I have written and its a bit pointless really. I mean how the fuck would a guy who climbs V15, gave Traci Lords sit start V12 (Its fucked up), who gave a problem Andy Earl couldn' touch V7, did Work Hard and forgot to tell anyone, who is working a route which would get 9c+ in Europe, who thought Walk Away was easy when he did it and who is working a boulder project that would get V17 in Europe (seriously) know the difference between V10 and V11  :roll:

squeek

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 985
  • Karma: +9/-0
#12 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 02:41:59 pm
<light hearted joke>

When's the wedding?

</light hearted joke>

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
#13 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 03:02:02 pm
Unfortunately he's already married and as a devote Christian, not an Arab, is only alowed one wife  :lol:  :wink:

dave

  • Guest
#14 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 03:04:51 pm
lets face it greg, i don't think being an arab wife is all the fun and games its cracked up to be.

 :saythat:

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#15 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 03:32:10 pm
Like Greg says John is already married and to be honest I wouldn't be too impressed if Greg started trying to split us up.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#16 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 04:09:17 pm
Quote from: "Greg Chapman"
Not that Im totally grade orientated  :oops: but be interesting to know how the Peak Limestone traverses compare to the South Lakes ones.

The Big G commented that when he did Hybrid Moments he was going to give it V10 but as Stamina Band was widly excepted as V11 he had to give it V11 as its slightly harder  :?


I've tried them both and would guess that staminabands harder, i did powerband two years ago and have tried the extension on/off ever since. I reckon i could do hybrid in significantly less time. I did the last bit quick and its more beta dependent than powerful. Haven't done that drop move or tried to link it yet though so who knows. Nige has tried both. Will come up for a blast in the summer. Hybrid certainly gets first prize in the quality stakes anyway!

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#17 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 04:21:27 pm
Which way did you do the last move on SB Chris, the lanky way avoiding the pocket move or the mans way :wink: ?

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#18 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 04:28:08 pm
Lanked it  :oops: and before any old skool peak hommes start jibing me, i couldn't give a rats ass. i only climb for myself and know what grade it was for me personally to traverse that bit of rock. I can't be sacked with eliminate rock climbing either!

dave

  • Guest
#19 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 04:32:40 pm
having being trying to do the finish any which way i can over the last couple of weeks i can say i don't think theres any difference in difficulty between the 2 finished from my point of view. the "trad" way means hanging a gash Bi-pocket above your head for a drop down, and the "lanky" way just means hanging a slightly better bi-pocket a lot lower for a drop-down.

anyway, i don't see anywhere where it says you have to climb things exactly the same as the FA. I don't see people queueing up to dsolo right unconquerable in plimsols.

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
#20 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 04:35:23 pm
Don't worry Chris I got jibed by the Big G for doing the last crux move on Cloning Tech the obvious - but not the "official" - way.  :lol:
Still hard like, so who cares!

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#21 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 04:35:42 pm
I'm only goading you Chris  :poke: . As a non lankster i don't got the choice. Anyway you've done it and i haven't so i'll shut up now.

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#22 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 04:36:13 pm
Gaskins only thinks that because he obviously finds Staminaband easy (well he did find it necessary to do PUTP after it!) due to his mutatedness. So he is right, but probably only for him - I would definately find Staminaband harder, but then that's me! Main thing, Hybrid Moments is a better traverse  :arrow:  :8)

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#23 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 04:37:42 pm
I know, these days people seem to do powerband whichever way they can, i'm sure a few old tor wads would begrudge them the ascent though. If your tall you can lank both ways to be honest, i've done powerband both ways although i think using the gnarly pocket is a bit harder for me. It is a total height think though, saw ste mac do powerband, he had his feet above his head, it looked desperate. Solid font 7c+ if your that short!

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#24 It's all in yer genes!
May 13, 2004, 04:39:11 pm
Quote from: "Greg Chapman"
Don't worry Chris I got jibed by the Big G for doing the last crux move on Cloning Tech the obvious - but not the "official" - way.  :lol:
Still hard like, so who cares!


yeah these olds boys need to get with the times, follow the easiest line of resistance!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal