[Nigel]

P.S. Can I just make Dave aware of a non big-bastard's take on Powerband last move! The move is only the same difficulty if you are tall enough to lank it, because then you can lank it off the 2-finger pocket with your foot on a jug. If you're short then the lank way is impossible and the "man's way" uses a wack egyptian off a shit foothold which is desperate.

You biggies :tom:  

[Pantontino]

Couldn't agree more Chris - I had all that 'approved' method bullshit thrown at me when I did Powerband back in the early 90s. I'm quite tall and I've got long arms, of course I'm going to take advantage of my reach. I still get nailed on bunched up problems.

Adam Wainwright keeps banging on about an 'approved' method on the Barrel (i.e. missing the undercut at the end of the trav) - apparently this is how Jerry originally did it. It is slightly harder, but so what, if I climb with a blind fold it'll be slightly (actually a lot harder!)

Same deal with Jerry's Roof - according to him and Ray Wood you ain't done it if you go low on the first few moves, because this is not how Jerry did it.

It is amazing how a simple principle, namely: 'follow the easiest line of resistance' can prove beyond the comprehension of otherwise intelligent adults.

 :roll:

[Doylo]

Dropping down on Jerrys or using the undercut on the barrel is actually the most pleasant ways to do those problems too. Its not like those boys were using an aesthetically superior method! Eliminates have there place but theres no need for it on natural line. Anyway i'm gonna have to tear myself away from this forum. If i don't nail 2000 words by tomorrow i'm up shit creek without a paddle.

[a dense loner]

u guys  :roll: learn from an old master

"traverse grades are meaningless"

[dave]

If you're short then the lank way is impossible and the "man's way" uses a wack egyptian off a shit foothold which is desperate

 :nopity:  :cry:

[dave]

...Come to think of it I remember Ray gettin a bee in his bonnet about the way to do Jason's Roof at Burbage north!

go on then spill the beta. I've got money on it being not the way i use!

[Bonjoy]

Hold on a sec, so I take it the low beta (share on finger jam avoiding pinch and drop-down) on the mid crux of powerband is also in, that should make life a bit easier, for the short ? And the jug on jerry's trav, sweeeet.

[dave]

i dont recon that'd make it any easier lovejoy - those pinch moves are the easiest on the problem anyway.

[Bonjoy]

True, but the drop down is one of the two moves i fall off on the link and the low way removes it. To be honest I wouldn't do it that way cos i would feel like i'd cheated, call me a misguided bouldering dinosaur if you like, but thats just the way i'd feel.

[Doylo]

Did you not have some weird way of getting through those undecuts on SB, missing out the burly moves if i remember correctly  

[Bonjoy]

Did you not have some weird way of getting through those undecuts on SB, missing out the burly moves if i remember correctly  

 I was doing some crazy cross-over shit, but i sacked it off for the normal way in the end.

[Doylo]

i is just goading yer bonjoy  :poke:
Lets face it'd probably find it easier than you if i wore wellies cos of the height thing. But then again your stronger than me which might even things out a bit.

[cofe]

that'll be why he matches it on stick it then. blinkered or what.

[Doylo]

yeah i saw mooney do it, matching the hold, he didn't seem to consider using the arete. It looked quite nails his way, he struggled :!:

[dave]

But apparently Jerry does it by matchin the thing out right. Ray was sayin that arete was "out".

what a load of shite eh! its a sitter to the "arete and pinch" problem, so how can the arete be out! some people must have a funny idea about what a line is.  i don't even think matching the pinch/edge thing would be any harder.

the way i look at it is that using the arete gives you as far as i'm concerned one of the best problems in the valley, and quality speaks for itself.

[Pantontino]

I remeber back in my Almscliff days we used to have a rule on the Slopey Traverse, that you couldn't heel hook, but it was pretty stupid, because you were allowed to on Grape Strain just across the way.

There is nothing wrong with doing eliminates - hell, I could write a dissertation on my Roadside favourites, but this stuff should always play second fiddle to the pure non eliminate line.

Once I've done every true line that I'm capable of in the Pass I might go back and do the Barrel without the undercut, but that could be 10 years away!

[Pantontino]

Thought of another example: When I first did King of Drunks I had a desperate sequence which even Leo couldn't do, despite his quick despatch of the stand up version of Wavelength.
Subsequently John Dunne sussed the - admittedly obvious - standard sequence, and, such is life, my 'hard' problem became a soft touch V6.

I better hassle Ray into doing it with the old sequence - that'll shut him up (or probably not, knowing how strong he is at the moment).

[a dense loner]

But apparently Jerry does it by matchin the thing out right

jerry may do it that way but it is called jason's roof. must be so borin for them guys when they only have a few things left to do. glad i'm not mutant

[Nigel]

Gonna keep bangin' on this drum! The reason Moony does Jason's that "blinkered" way is because that is the only way he can. There are two types of people in this world - those who can reach the pinch/edge, and those who can't. Those who can't don't do it and play the "too short" card (I know I do!) - not Moony! He can't quite reach the pinch but he can get the very vague piece of shite on the right hand side of it as a sloper. Fuuullll stretch! Then jumps his left hand from the undercut to the edge which means he has to cut loose and hold a big swing on shit holds. If he went for the arete there is no way he could hold the swing!

When I told him that some people do it by reaching straight through to the good edge in their right hand he said something along the lines of  "Lanky twats" :clapclap:  

[dave]

although i've never had to try it myself, i wonder if with the heel toe in the back someone who couldn't reach quite far enough could come off the best bit of the undercut (like where the glue spooges out) and pinch the main body of the undercut to gain like 6inch extra reach? you'd think it'd be possible to do that.

[Nigel]

It works when you're stood on the ground but the problem is the heel toe which you'd need holds you such that you can't reach any further when you're on the problem.

[Ru]

And then there are some of us who would call Mooney tall. I  can't reach the crapness to the right of the pinch at full stretch so..

I've not done it, but I got very close by crimping a little rugosity in the wall betwixt pinch and arete with my right, toe hook undercut, slap up arete to a good pebble with left, dyno R hand to good edge, fall off easy top move, have a paddy.

[dave]

sounds like an innovative sequence :shock:

[Doylo]

And then there are some of us who would call Mooney tall. I  can't reach the crapness to the right of the pinch at full stretch so..

I've not done it, but I got very close by crimping a little rugosity in the wall betwixt pinch and arete with my right, toe hook undercut, slap up arete to a good pebble with left, dyno R hand to good edge, fall off easy top move, have a paddy.

oh no that should be illegal