Tomoko Ogawa interview up on UKC now http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67550 in the interview she said:“I thought I need more finger strength and reach. I did "finger pull ups" for a long time that I had seen Daniel Woods do in a DVD. It is like hanging on a campus board with open hand and close it to crimp and open and close over and over while you are hanging.” Has anyone else tried this? Sounds like a recipe for tendon/pulley injuries to me but maybe I’m wrong?
I have tried that open to crimp swap. For some reason I found I could coordinate the transition with both hands and could only change one. I guess there are benefits for fast explosive climbing where you deadpoint a hold open and quickly turn it into a crimp but I guess that chance of injury is very high!
Might try and give it another go once the weather shits out properly. Thinking 1 foot on to start with and build up to it slowly.
Don't we all do this anyway?Normally when I go for a hold I grab it open handed - and if its marginal I wind it in to make a crimp...How often do you go for a hold straight away crimped? Dont think I ever do...
It'll help when you're full stretch and can't quite crimp down properly
Quote from: andi_e on October 25, 2012, 04:34:29 pmIt'll help when you're full stretch and can't quite crimp down properlyIn that hypothetical situation having better open hand or half crimp strength would be more beneficial? If you were at 'full stretch' then you wouldn't be able to close to a crimp!
Ah I forgot the It is obviously a useful exercise, and one than is terrifying, all I can think of when I've tried it is the poor pulleys handling the bowing tendons!
Someone told me about 4yrs ago this was how earl trained and it was really beneficial. I could do it first go for ages, I don't want or need medals I thought it was a waste of time and never did it again
I can't even hang a crimp one handed, much less roll from open into closed. are those guys really that strong?
Sasquatch, no these guys aren't really that strong, not as we're being led to believe. After a bit of digging it was done by Jumping into a big edge, not gonna call it kipping cos it sounds ridiculous, still very impressive but not the myth that we're being sold
Well only one guy has been mentioned to be fair. Guys who I could think of off top of my head to do this static, poss u rodma, tim palmer, Moger in his prime, Malc, parsons, anyone that weighs less than 8 stone doesnt count in anything. not Micky, ned, dan, mike, can't think of any other good climbers, not that ure included in that category rodma
No I actually meant earl, I don't know who Douglas is. Micky has just said he can do it on front 2 but he doesn't wanna talk about it, adding why dont people just go and climb the sad wankers. I was sticking to Brits to make It easier
Quote from: a dense loner on October 26, 2012, 09:31:53 amNo I actually meant earl, I don't know who Douglas is. Micky has just said he can do it on front 2 but he doesn't wanna talk about it, adding why dont people just go and climb the sad wankers. I was sticking to Brits to make It easierYou're friends with a guy that strong? That must be so awesome. How come you're always so reticent about it?
.....Lock myself in cellar and do nothing but fingerboard and eat broccoli for the winter. i'll emerge in the spring like a climbing butterfly, pasty white and ready to fly.
this is based on a part of the same principles...haf way between finger rolls and finger pullups.using it from time to time i'd say it is best suited to phases where for any reason you want to put in a lot of volume or forearm work, as it's best attribute is the "work/trauma" ratio
Quote from: ghisino on October 28, 2012, 09:54:55 amthis is based on a part of the same principles...haf way between finger rolls and finger pullups.using it from time to time i'd say it is best suited to phases where for any reason you want to put in a lot of volume or forearm work, as it's best attribute is the "work/trauma" ratioWow, 159.95 euros for that. One of these for a tenner would probably do the trick:http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conveyor-rollers/7614167/