Tomoko Ogawa interview up on UKC now http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67550 in the interview she said:“I thought I need more finger strength and reach. I did "finger pull ups" for a long time that I had seen Daniel Woods do in a DVD. It is like hanging on a campus board with open hand and close it to crimp and open and close over and over while you are hanging.” Has anyone else tried this? Sounds like a recipe for tendon/pulley injuries to me but maybe I’m wrong?
I have tried that open to crimp swap. For some reason I found I could coordinate the transition with both hands and could only change one. I guess there are benefits for fast explosive climbing where you deadpoint a hold open and quickly turn it into a crimp but I guess that chance of injury is very high!
Might try and give it another go once the weather shits out properly. Thinking 1 foot on to start with and build up to it slowly.
Don't we all do this anyway?Normally when I go for a hold I grab it open handed - and if its marginal I wind it in to make a crimp...How often do you go for a hold straight away crimped? Dont think I ever do...
It'll help when you're full stretch and can't quite crimp down properly
Quote from: andi_e on October 25, 2012, 04:34:29 pmIt'll help when you're full stretch and can't quite crimp down properlyIn that hypothetical situation having better open hand or half crimp strength would be more beneficial? If you were at 'full stretch' then you wouldn't be able to close to a crimp!
Ah I forgot the It is obviously a useful exercise, and one than is terrifying, all I can think of when I've tried it is the poor pulleys handling the bowing tendons!
Someone told me about 4yrs ago this was how earl trained and it was really beneficial. I could do it first go for ages, I don't want or need medals I thought it was a waste of time and never did it again