[cheque]

Resting today so might as well start this off.

STG- 5.12a in the Red River Gorge in October

M- Rest
T- Notts wall bouldering. More steep stuff. Good session- noticable gains since last week.
W- Rest. Feeling really worked from Tues
T- Edge routes. Warm-ups feel really easy but sudden loss of strength, psyche and ability as soon as I attempt harder things. Continuing to push it does not help. Partner tweaks forearm so finish on circuit board- pleased to be able to lap easy circuits when boxed.
F- Rest. Realising a week's rest before flying to US is probably a good idea. Staying up 'til 4AM for mate's birthday confirms this.
S- Rest.
S- Rest.

Last power club post for three weeks as I'm off for some Kentucky Fried Chuffin' on Thursday . Training seems to have gone well as I've definitely improved in all the areas I identified. Bring it fucking on.

[i_a_coops]

Missed 6 weeks due to living in a tent/portaledge in Kyrgyzstan (see http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18533.msg377581.html#msg377581)

M-F - eat, sleep.
S 1st board session in 8 weeks, stuck to the biggest holds on the board. Needed to use heels just to get to the top of the board! Granite slabs have made me weak! Was pleased with body positioning though, was hitting shapes pretty fast for me (read: still climbing like an over-strong technical dunce). Finished with 5 sets of 32 moves on systems board slopers with about 4 minutes rest between. Was failing on move 25 by the end.
S - nada.

I'm now a full-timer for the next year! Going to finally get into a periodised plan and be as sensible as possible about not getting injured.

Priorities are: get back to an acceptable level of bouldering strength, then maintain that and get fitter than I have ever been, maximise time on rock.

[tomtom]

Great write up on the big wall adventures!

M:
T: Rockcity Hull. New decent problems shock horror! good session.
W:
T: Almscliff. No psyche. Been too busy at work, too much going around in my head.. left after 30-40min..
F: Power hour at Logport wall to make up for Thursdays shitness..
Sa: Blackstones: Met up with Plattsy and R-Man who very kindly showed us around. Too windy to get that much out of it, but did a few good problems including a slopey traverse (mad friction) and a 7A I was annoyed not to quite latch..
Su: rest.

Looks like next weeks going to be a quiet one as term starts and MrsTT is into Hospital for a day or two so I'll be donning my nurses outfit...

[fried]

... so I'll be donning my nurses outfit...

Shudders.

Monday - Wednesday - Work,work, work.
Thursday - Indoors.
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Nice day at Gros Sablons, did the first half of an Orange circuit, then wandered around for a bit. Car decided it was O.K after all.
Sunday - Should be doing an indoor session but picked up a cold and am spending the day trying to get my 'freebox' to read my computer harddrive, so I can watch it in bed. No luck yet.

Hopefully I'll get a 3 day weekend and get a camping in in the forest next weekend.

[csl]

Goals - Climb regularly indoors or out
1.40 half marathon

Mon - 6 mile run - 43.30 kk - bouldering
Tue - harlow routes - up to 6c onsights
Wed - rest
Thur - 8 mile run - 63.40
Fri - rest
Sat - park run 5k 18.55 - 14 mile cycle 18.5 avg
Sun rest

Injured my achilles on sat- feeling pain so gonna rest a couple of days.

[shark]

Missed 6 weeks due to living in a tent/portaledge in Kyrgyzstan (see http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18533.msg377581.html#msg377581)

   


11.8-10
M-T Rested up
F. Eve. Foundry Wave
S. High Tor. Original route, Robert Brown and Lyme Cryme. First proper day's tradding for 3 years.
S.

It's been a long haul but completing on house purchase next weds and moving in weds and thurs. 

Felt under the weather all week. Training psyche returning and keen for some more tradding. Staring to watch what I eat. Having a session with Zippy to work out an old skool training programme. My elbows are aching already.

[abarro81]

I'm now a full-timer for the next year!

Priorities are: get back to an acceptable level of bouldering strength, then maintain that and get fitter than I have ever been, maximise time on rock. Leave the country as soon as possible to go somewhere better and dryer than the UK.

Surely?

[Muenchener]

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint.
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes by ticking several classics in the V/V+ range in the Dolomites.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
 
Two versions this week to reflect rather mixed feelings about my current "training" and "progress"

None Of The Above because I'm crap and will remain an aging punter forever:

M.
T. Yoga
W. Wall, Thalkirchen, routes. 5b 6a 5c 5b 7a (attempt) 6a+ 6a+ 6b 5b
   Need to improve tactics and/or stamina. Warmed up carefully, one attempt of 7a redpoint project, f*cked for the evening.
T.
F.
S.  Boulder comp, Boulderwelt. Significantly weaker performance than in the same event last year, unsurprisingly since I (a) haven't bouldered much for months, (b) haven't trained much in any shape or form since before my summer holiday in the Dolomites and (c) have a cold.
"MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp" Looks a long way off: 178th out of 253 today.
S: Nowt, knackered

Think Constructively:

M.
T. Yoga
W. Wall, Thalkirchen, routes. Did all moves on 7a rp project yyfy.
T.
F.
S.  Boulder comp, Boulderwelt. Successes on (a) running start, (b) bat hang finish, (c) hands-off knee-bar finish: all Boulder Comp Party Trick firsts for me. (Sadly not all on the same problem) Through these and other feats, placed ahead of 75 other blokes most of them probably half my age. Go me. Excellent motivation for start of Autumn Boulder Training.
S: Rest day, family stuff

[Dr T]

Week Starting    24/9/12
MTG      look at a grit or lime 7c at half term…
LTG      A prehension and sitting bull
Monday   Rest

Tuesday   School session – conditions poor/humid – session ended by a nasty balls squashed between legs whilst falling off
                a heel hook…  - cold coming on

Wednesday   Rest – cold kicking in and balls aching…

Thursday   Rest – cold still kicking in
      Did mess around on Craggy 2’s beast maker for a bit – the 45 degs are 42 and v holdable 

Friday   Good school session – did a lot inc 1st send of Archies new hard barrel prob’ about 7b/+

Saturday   Mainly rest – push up pyramid and pull up pyramid in evening
                Press up pyramid – 5 reps, up in 5’s to 30 and back – 30 sec rest between sets-starting to feel ok as an exercise.
                Pull up pyramid – 3 reps, up in 3’s to 12 and back – 30 sec rest – hard on the golfers elbow

Sunday   Stripping and setting at school – had big play on the hard undercut prob – discretion is now the better part of 
                valour – getting the undercut above the head is fine but stepping up into it is murdering the back – leave be

[Dolly]

Missed 6 weeks due to living in a tent/portaledge in Kyrgyzstan (see http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18533.msg377581.html#msg377581)

   


11.8-10
M-T Rested up
F. Eve. Foundry Wave
S. High Tor. Original route, Robert Brown and Lyme Cryme. First proper day's tradding for 3 years.
S.

It's been a long haul but completing on house purchase next weds and moving in weds and thurs. 

Felt under the weather all week. Training psyche returning and keen for some more tradding. Staring to watch what I eat. Having a session with Zippy to work out an old skool training programme. My elbows are aching already.

The shed resetting has been finished today and awaits your visit

[cheque]

W. Wall, Thalkirchen, routes. Did all moves on 7a rp project yyfy.

I think this is a more realistic appraisal than the other one. I wouldn't be discouraged by being thrashed by the first burn on it. Chances are it'll feel far more reasonable next time.

First proper day's tradding for 3 years.
... keen for some more tradding.

[nai]

goals - not get let down by partners, climb on dry rock, protect finger niggle.

M - warm up, reaches, lockoffs, 4 rep repeaters, switched to larger slots after three sets then canned it after five due to finger niggle, 100 pressups
T -  warm up, reaches, lockoffs, few test hangs then canned it due to creaky elbow...
w
T - Tor, partner had cried off so bouldering, RHS wet so Cave by default, frustrating morning
F - Put clips in RoF, crucial crimp wet at top so worked new sequence.
    1st RP, slipped off low undercut wet. Dried u/c & waited 5 minutes....
    2nd RP on autopilot started old sequence at the top, adjusted but fell. lowering off noticed crimp was dry...
    3rd RP u/c wet. Running out of time so dried it, lowered and went straight away...
    4th RP up to 5th bolt but too pumped to clip, fingers uncurled as I was considering whether to just go without it...
ss - hurt on Saturday, started clearing the garage on Sunday to make space for a proper woodie.

Success on RoF felt probable more than possible after the previous session and subsequent endurance work so for it to drag on even further is a a big disappointment.  8a looking very unlikely now this year.  Feeling ready to heed the calling...

[TobyD]

I'm now a full-timer for the next year!
Priorities are: get back to an acceptable level of bouldering strength, then maintain that and get fitter than I have ever been, maximise time on rock. Leave the country as soon as possible to go somewhere better and dryer than the UK.

Surely?

  Get out while you can!

[andy popp]

Quite a week

Mon - work/film BBC2 doc in Liverpool city centre pub, get verbal confirmation of promotion
Tues - work. Written confirmation of promotion, feel totally drained by evening, after effect of tension etc. I guess
Wed - work. Circuits on board, ok
Thurs - work. Circuits on board, at least as good as day before, so can do two sessions in a row
Fri - work, Get advance copy of new book, another YYFY
Sat - work. Date!! (something of a novelty for me)
Sun - baking, homemade baklava!

Bit of a tumultuous week that's left me feeling knackered at times. Still no pattern to my weeks and no-one else using the board as yet. This weeks looking as full and bitty - not likely to be similar YYFY's though.

[iain]

Hats off to coops, have a great trip Cheque, and many congrats to Andy P on the appointment, the date and the baklava.

Two weeks since last post:

Week 1: Scotland and work
Managed to squeeze in 2 sessions at TCA Glasgow and one at A2. No power or body tension on anything remotely steep but PE/endurance was good.

Week 2: Torridon for holiday.
Had a couple of perfect days in the hills but weather scuppered most things climbing, including the bouldering 5 mins from the campsite. Did a multipitch VS whilst getting rained on, that was a first.
Need to go back and have a proper look at the Beinn Eighe buttresses, what a place.


3 weeks till next Infinite Gravity weekend, don't suppose anyone else wants to come have a go before then?

As far as I can know the only thing I can make a difference with in that time is PE, recruitment and weight. Aiming for day about on each as I know I can do that with decent volume.
Weight is in a good place after all the walking, 63kg this morning. Would like to have it down to 62 in the next few weeks.

[i_a_coops]

I'm now a full-timer for the next year!

Priorities are: get back to an acceptable level of bouldering strength, then maintain that and get fitter than I have ever been, maximise time on rock. Leave the country as soon as possible to go somewhere better and dryer than the UK.

Surely?

 

My bank balance is a bit too negative at the moment sadly  . Going to try and save up enough to road-trip in Europe from next March until I have to start PhD-ing though, so if all goes to plan I might finally learn how to use my feet...

Actually it's more likely that I'll spend all that time searching for the elusive route where you get an 8c tick for doing a few one armers on pockets, but good intentions etc.

[andy_e]

STG: Get some STGs
MTG: Slightly harder than the STGs
LTG: Harder still, but possible if I try hard.

M: ClimbNE. New milk plan. No pain the next day.
T: ClimbNE. More milk, no pain.
W: Rest.
T: ClimbNE. Climbed like a fool.
F: Rest.
S: Gardoms. Did some cool problems, got scared on Suavito, decided I like ankles and not being impaled on rocks so moved on to Gardoms North. Fell off stuff.
S: Rest.

[Nibile]

Good week.
Mon - some tests on the system holds. Very very strong, I thought I had taken the wrong ones, happy. Bouldering, very strong, did a project in two halves twice. Vol 6/7. Int 8+.
Tue - rest, work all day.
Wed - board. One new problem set and tried. Not bad despite poor sleep the night before, and being tired from work. Vol 3/4. Int 7+.
Thu - Beast one arm max hangs. Very good on back3; average on the others, not recovered enough. Front lever pulls 5x4 sets. Hard.
Fri - weights. Snatch, deadlift, overhead press. Very strong, great session, equaled my deadlift PB after doing snatches. Fantastic session really.
Sat - board. One new problem. Tired from poor sleep. Vol 3/4. Int 7. Bad skin.
Sun - board. Long links on projects, very strong but skin lasted short. PB on one project, then climbed another one (see blog for details). YYFY great session, very motivating one of the highlights of the recent months. Food for thought.

So, good week, especially because of Sunday successful session. Still working a lot, hard to get going but not too hard. Still lots of training days (6/7) but good volume management.
Minus three weeks to some vacation.

[i_a_coops]

3 weeks till next Infinite Gravity weekend, don't suppose anyone else wants to come have a go before then?

Very keen for this route - have PM'd you.

[Muenchener]

"MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp" Looks a long way off: 178th out of 253 today.

My score on the official result was wrong. On the - obviously reasonable - assumption that everybody else's score is correct and  I wuz robbed, I should have been 156th. Better already.

[duncan]

STG: Keep fit for South West enchainment in 2 weeks. More E3/4s.
MTG: 7b, E5 by end 2012.  This is looking unlikely...
LTG: various ambitious LH&F

M - Calf stuff.
T - The Arch (Bouldering). Foot slip early on and bagged it. 
W - The Arch (Bouldering V2/3 : 20 x Yellows + a few extras). Jogged 300m.
T - The Arch (Aerobic Capacity: 20 mins continuous).
F - The Arch.  Supposed to be an ‘active rest’ session but overdid it and tweaked finger.
S - Running after offspring. 
S - Easy Trad at Wintour’s.  One other team on the whole crag the entire day. Where was everyone?  Jogged 400m.

Other half attending Der Ring des Nibelungen so more childminding than usual. This week will be similarly happily hectic with my turn to enter Valhalla.  4 days consecutively at a climbing wall was clearly a bad idea in retrospect, even if the amount I do is trivial for most.  Main STG is to stay uninjured for the next two weeks.   

[richdraws]

STG 7a,7a+,7b, 7b+
MTG (Jan/Feb2013) - Boulder 7c
LTG lets see how we go

Low volume week

Mon - lunchtime jog - rest
Tue - lunchtime jog - Fingerboard repeaters easily completed
wed - lunchtime jog - fingerboard repeaters (added weight), light bouldering followed by 4x4
thu  - lunchtime jog -rest
fri    - lunchtime jog - fingerboard repeaters
sat - Grit bouldering, noticed a lack of confidence (recklessness?). Will have to build up ability to try hard more than a few feet above the ground and develop trust in spotters etc. Stupidly had a blast on Mossatrocity after a pint and managed to make myself bleed.
sun - Anston Stones, enjoyed 1st visit at apprentice wall.

Lower volume this week allowed intensity to creep up on fingerboard.

[andy_e]

Stupidly had a blast on Mossatrocity after a pint and a half and managed to make myself bleed.

 

What/who possessed you?