[fried]

Weekend's camping cancelled due to bad weather.

Monday - Wednesday - Got a cold
Thursday - Nothing.
Friday - Indoor new wall. Fuck me, they have the roughest holds I've ever touched, after 2h I can't even do a warm-up problem my fingers sting so much.
Saturday - Various push ups and stuff
Sunday - Rocher Fin, a bit greasy when I arrived but steadily improved did some blues.

I have no idea why but since Saturday my back feels O.K.

Weight 75.4kg

Love Sunday when you have Monday off.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Done!
LTG: Font 7b...nowhere near.

Back on it now after a week off recovering from GNR.

M - nowt.
T - 5.30am start, train to London, all day in meetings, evening watching the football,  and then a curry up Brick Lane.
W - hungover all day, more meetings, train home and then works poker night - finished 9th out of 41.
T - 5:30am start for work, knackered all day.
F - nowt.
S - nowt.
S - I went to Ilkley and I wasn't the best. Then I went to the wall and I wasn't the best there either. Came home to sulk.

[nai]

goals - E4 & 8a

M - Foot on campussing, 5 sets of 4 reps, failed -10s final set. Best effort yet
t
w
T - Tor, Ring of Fire R6. Worked easier sequence that I tried last week again and memorised it better. Low intermediate undercut was still wet so RPs 1 & 3 ended there, dried the hold and retreated to rest 5 mins
RP3 - cocked up the new bit twice (actually once but thought I had twice and tried adjusting before realising there was nothing to adjust) but got to the belay properly boxed by now, pulled the rope through, fumbled the clip and plumetted. Arse
RP4 - stormed it, at last. At least 3 sessions too many but got there in the end.
f -
S - max hangs
s

Still got a couple of tweaky fingers but they seem managable so going to press on and try to get an 8a ticked before the end of October.

[andy popp]

Mon - work
Tues - work then problems on board, by far best session since starting again having avoided trying problems for two weeks due to lack of time/no snap. Could tell this session was going to be different before I'd started
Wed - work then good session of circuits. Out late schmoozing potential colleague
Thurs - work
Fri - work, pack
Sat - up early for journey to Stockholm, seems to take almost all day even though it isn't really very far.
Sun - v pleasant train journey across lovely autumny Sweden to Jonkoping. I believe there's a wall here. No idea what its like.

Feel I might have to start thinking about setting 'goals' (these might well consist of 'going climbing').

[Wood FT]

RP4 - stormed it, at last. At least 3 sessions too many but got there in the end.

  nice one

[TobyD]

STG: mend foot, don't loose too much strength / fitness. 
MTG: regain routes level by November.

M  repeaters on rock rings
T repeaters on rock rings
W repeaters on rock rings
T FA; nowt
F repeaters on rock rings, core weights
S FA
S 20-30 min bike + 1.5 hr weights + core

[Nibile]

Mon - Beast, 2 arms max +6/10 kg. 2 sets. Very strong, back2 and mid monos improved. Int 9.
Tue - rest, work all day.
Wed - board. Good session, very strong. PB on various projects. Vol 7/8. Int 8+.
Thu - weights. Snatch, press, overhead squat, back, triceps, biceps. Strong session. Vol 9. Int 8+.
Fri - board. Very strong, climbed a project. Long links on projects. Mentally perfect. Vol 5. Int 8.
Sat - board. Good, long links on projects. One new problem set and tried. One PB. Vol 6. Int 8+.
Sun - bouldering. Nice few hours out on the rock. A few new problems, one FA, good day.

Every week in which I manage to train at the limit is a good one, and this past was a good one. Climbing a project on my board gave me a buzz that I hadn'd had in a while.

[Muenchener]

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight: near success, fell at last bolt
   7a redpoint.
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes by ticking several classics in the V/V+ range in the Dolomites.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   
M. Wall, Boulderwelt. Proper boulder comp training session as recommended here and here by Douglas (SCC) Hunter.
   A dozen easy problems to warm up. Recruitment/power trying moves on hard problems. Did all moves on (tho didn't quite link) a comp problem that I didn't even get off the ground on on Saturday, so good. Then stamina: a dozen problems at around my onsight limit.
T. Bike to work ca 25km
W. Sport climbng, Nassereith. Working hard-for-me things in the 6b-6c range.
T. Sciatica?
F. Sciaticaaargh!
S. Yoga, with heavy emphasis on lower back extension & piriformis stretches.
S. ditto

[csl]

Good effort to everyone red pointing their projects this week!

Goals - Climb regularly indoors or out
1.40 half marathon

Mon- Swimming - couldn't run cos of achilles.
Tue- Cycling 32 Miles @ 18.2 avg
Wed- KK - unstructured session - some attempts on hard problems and some campusing. Need to come up with some solid indoor goals!
Thur- nothing
Fri- cycling around london
Sat- nothing
Sun- supporting GF on half marathon - lots of running to tubes etc.

Once i get this HM out the way next weekend i need some structure. Finger strength will be the main target.

[duncan]

An excellent week. 

Nice one.  Sounds like it went down fairly smoothly too.


STG: Stay uninjured for South West enchainment this weekend. More E3/4s.
MTG: 7b, E5.  Does end of 2012 now count as a STG?  Seems unlikely to happen now.
LTG: various ambitious LH&F

M -
T - Das Rheingold
W - The Arch. Light bouldering / rehab.
T - Die Walkure
F - The Arch. Aerobic Capacity: 5 mins on (continuous V1/V2); 5 mins off x 4
S - Running after offspring. 
S - Siegfried. 1km run.

Hectic week.  My turn in the wonderful world of the Gods, Giants and Nibelungen. Not much training, one good session to keep things ticking over and first proper (short) run for eight weeks. 

After the coming weekend's jaunt I have a choice of keep gunning for E5 (continue endurance work) or give up for now and aim for next spring (start basic finger strength work).

[shark]

M. Beasted by Zippy on the campus board   
T.
W.AM Completed on house purchase 
 
Rest of week spent lugging heavy objects and boxes with a cold up and down stairs and ate lots of takeaway food. Probably equivalent to climbing an 8,000 meter peak without the objective danger - though I did have a heavy sideboard dropped on my toe.

Managed to sneak in two weighted deadhang sessions scoring PB's   

Zippy's given me some professional guidance on strength and power training this winter with the objective of helping to sprint up PE routes.

Is the climbing season over yet ?

 
 

[nai]

Is the climbing season over yet ?
 

No it's not, having fettled with brown rocks for the first time in a while today (the car tricked me by reading 8 degrees) I am reassured that it's not time for the calling yet, the lime feels so much better right now and I will be continuing my efforts to claim an 8a before the month is out.

[tomtom]

Congrats Shark on the house move (looks good!) - a stressful time often...
Congrats to Nai on your RP
Chin up to 3T... it'll get better - always tough after a layoff (managing expectations...)

A mixed week for me..

M: Work - then drive back to Manc for...
T: MrsTT in hospital for a minor op... early start to ferry her there, day of faffing/worrying then late eve getting her back... all OK though
W: Drive to Hull > Work.
T: Work, drive back to Manc, nice session at Blackstones on the way back.. did some lovely problems (it is a great spot.. - you have to work a little to find the best problems but its good).
F: rest. Shattered.
Sa: Up at 7 - got to BBG W for 9.. warm ups, then had 1/2 hour good session on West Side Story. Not as bad as I thought, got to within one move of my previous best. I need to work my LH index finger half pad mono crimping skills! Retired to the Nose, got midged out (THE sloper hold was a bit damp too). Retired t'other side of valley and surprised myself by kneebarring successfully up the first moves on Bannanananananafingeriser direct (wimped out on the step up knee scraper final move as on my own and one pad..)
Su: MrsTT's Birthday... made the first cake I've made in probably 35 years... superb Went to see Jaysus Christ Superstar in the evening.. (OK..)

Hangin in there climbing wise, but I feel there may be a winging post about plateau's, slipping backwards in spite of training etc.. soon....

[iain]

Lots of good stuff but congrats to Nai and Shark.

chop/ split logs

This appears to form a substantial part of your training routine.

STG: Not flail too much on IG

Sun: BM recruitment, one arm work
M: 2x6 min repeater sets off bar
T: BM recruitment, one arm work
W: 3x5 min repeater sets, half crimp, 5kg assist
T: Bouldering at Reading, ok session, a few 7A-ish done, skin gave out before body did.
F: Rest
S: Short day on Portland. Had a decent flash go on Cocteau Phenomenon with brain not brawn failure, 2nd go.
S: Rest

Weather permitting this is an IG weekend, looking forward to getting back down and seeing where I'm at.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Regain psyche..

M&T: Somehow managed to tweak shoulder without actually doing anything on previous weekend so nowt
W: Easy stuff @ The works
T&F Nowt
S: Boulder @ Burbage - Good fun, fell off the 6b top of a 7a+  (was a bit green, damp and greasy in my defence)
S: Family shizz..

Need to get psyched... Need a project that's not periodically wet (like as soon as I start to get into it) ... Might try and get on Call of Nature if I can muster up the requsite psyche (and partner) before the end of the season as I really need to get on an 8a if I wanna tick one next year....

:D

[Wood FT]

Often lurk this thread so in the interest of attaining some sort of training structure, my first post.

Year goals 7c, 7B, E4

M - Works, busy, felt sluggish, repeated a few whites then slinked off home
T - turns out it's my turn to catch office illness
W - ill, pub quiz, 22/40, some idiotic answers.
T - less ill
F - getting better, sober aerobics at techno for 6 hours, really good set by Shed.
S - PM repeat rubicon, move over to Moat buttress, Flash really good 6c+, one t/r on moat people having watched theo on it, feels doable. Midges eat us alive.
S - after 10 hours sleep feel wooden, belay Chris quite badly trying to avoid sinking in the mud. 2 bolt-to-bolts on moat people and get to the top on first redpoint, 7b+ or 7b hardest sport route and one of the best, chuffed. Wad point to KC

Non-climbing week followed by hardest sport route, hmmm, not trying hard enough

[Monolith]

really good set by Shed.

Nice work on going to see Shed. Sorry for OT.

[andy_e]

Shed Seven? Only joking, Shed must have been ace.

STG: Finish this report.
MTG: 7C again.
LTG: 7C+.

M: Rest.
T: Leeds Wall. Started off sluggishly but then got into the groove, crushed some powerful problems in the end. Probably overdid it a bit.
W: Drive to Widdop, wait for it to dry, get rained on. Drive on to Earl, also wet. Finish up at the Depot. Couldn't climb for toffees. Stuck around for ages though and did some one armers/campussing.
T: ClimbNE. New circuit up to 6C. Absolutely spanked by some of it, nails! The setters need to reel themselves in a little! Elbows caned afterwards.
F: Rest.
S: Nothing.
S: Nothing.

Hope my elbows feel better for the Rocky Valley night sesh tonight.

[nai]

 Might try and get on Call of Nature if I can muster up the requsite psyche (and partner) before the end of the season as I really need to get on an 8a if I wanna tick one next year....

Hoping to get on this tomorrow, you free?

[Duncan Disorderly]

 Might try and get on Call of Nature if I can muster up the requsite psyche (and partner) before the end of the season as I really need to get on an 8a if I wanna tick one next year....

Hoping to get on this tomorrow, you free?

I would be but I've committed myself to going out this afternoon and can't justify Thursday as well (and not sure my body could cope with 4 days on after the lack of training I've done recently), you keen for any days next week or even Friday afternoon?

:D

[i_a_coops]

M rain.
T
W - Westway routes. Fell off a steep 6b+, 6 weeks of slab climbing has not done good things for my stamina. Onsighted a 7a slab  to make myself feel better. Finished with a few easy 20 move circuits then 15 minutes aerocap.
T - Biscuit Factory, played around on the circuit board getting the sequences sorted.
F - Biscuit Factory, 20 move circuits on 40 degree board. 4x 7a circuit followed by 2x 6b circuit then the 7a circuit again, all with 3 min rest in between. Better than expected by far!
S -
S - short but intense session of alternating one armers, dumbell complexes, 3 sets of encores (2x front 3 drag 1x back 3 drag) followed by modified version of Jacobjacob's core workout (10min of core excersises with no rests)

 Another week or so of this kind of playing around (and playing around on rock too) to rehabilitate myself to regular climbing, then it's time to start getting geeky with a stopwatch and trying to distinguish between aeropow ancap etc.  I hear it worked for Barrows...