Also been disappointed by lack of progress on this cycle of weighted deadhangs compared to the first one. Quite a few sessions I have trained or climbed the day before so I think this has had an impact on the effectiveness this time round.
Quote from: shark on September 23, 2012, 04:08:25 pm Also been disappointed by lack of progress on this cycle of weighted deadhangs compared to the first one. Quite a few sessions I have trained or climbed the day before so I think this has had an impact on the effectiveness this time round. On the basis of her paper it seemed that the gains on the 8 week program were neuromuscular. Presumably there's a limit to gains of that sort - maybe it's just that you've reached that limit and thus it's now back to getting stronger in the boring, slow manner of building muscles and strengthening connective tissue?
I still think that in terms of max finger strength (which I perceive as a major personal weakness) its a good, focused structure to follow.
You can write me a winter programme to start after that
Sun - Tate L'pool with daughter. Brilliant!
Quote from: shark on September 23, 2012, 08:34:56 pmYou can write me a winter programme to start after that Here is my programme for you which i'm pretty certain would get you up the Oak:Don't go near a rope until April.
Really pleased to get up Soul Sacrifice, a great and not soft E3. It goes against my strengths and was a good reminder I'm going to have to get a lot fitter do anything much harder down here (memories of getting pumped stupid on Mother Africa when I was much younger and better).
S. Tor with Duncan. Disappointing..................
Shark - perhaps in tune with what Three Nine is saying, what not try something radically different? You do seem to be going backwards a bit at the moment and getting stale.As I see it you want to climb The Oak. That's the main thing. You've got yourself into a position where you can cope with a high(ish) volume of training. But if I've got it right you also believe that basic finger strength is letting you down.Why not cut down the number of days you train to just three or four during the winter? Spend most or all of the time doing hard bouldering in a style as close as possible to The Oak (with maybe one day ARCing in the mix). Then five weeks or so before you want to start trying The Oak again do Power Endurance work.It's a simple, basic, programme. You don't need much else for The Oak do you? You're not training for a 40m Spanish endurance route. You'll feel fresh each time you train. If there are strength gains to be made at your age, will this will maximise the chance of it happening?
Quote from: shark on September 23, 2012, 04:08:25 pmS. Tor with Duncan. Disappointing.................. You alluding to my current performance and training volume?