[Dolly]

I've had a couple of sessions on it now and my first impressions are that Rob and Karl have done a great job. I'm not sure if its just because it looks pretty or because its new, but it seems there are loads of possibilities for different sorts of problems and ways to use it.
Anyone else been on it yet ?

 

[shark]

I was gutted to be robbed of completing my circuit but have to admit it does look real pretty.

Not been on it yet but particularly like the look of those wooden undercut holds that you can backhand into.

Neil is reluctant to set french graded training circuits on it or indeed anywhere else in the Foundry which I think is missing a trick especially as both the Edge and the Works have them. 

[T_B]

I think it's loads better but it's not quite as good as it could be for circuits. They've added a lot of big holds - maybe too many - but not everywhere that you need them to be able to descend through the centre of the board (unless you are an absolute beast). Before I used to do figure 8 circuits and could climb down through the middle on finger jugs - not anymore. You just have those massive elbow-wrecking undercuts to descend on.

It's definitely loads better for up problems though and they've got some nice new holds on there, with more pockets and undercuts which everyone had requested.

8/10

[slackline]

Neil is reluctant to set french graded training circuits on it or indeed anywhere else in the Foundry which I think is missing a trick especially as both the Edge and the Works have them.

Perhaps because it the means one person is using a large area of wall to the exclusion of other users?

[T_B]

Neil is reluctant to set french graded training circuits on it or indeed anywhere else in the Foundry which I think is missing a trick especially as both the Edge and the Works have them.

Perhaps because it the means one person is using a large area of wall to the exclusion of other users?

Due to the angle of the board and size of holds, unless you are a total beast it's best for PE circuits, so you're never on there too long. I've never seen anyone shaking out for ages and plodding around (though I never climb on it in the evening...)

[abarro81]

Stu and/or Jules (plus plenty of others) usually have a good circuit to steal, then just tweak the cruxes or what feet you use or throw in the odd extra hold to tailor the difficulty... Grading circuits is pointless, since the grades will all be wrong anyway (see the works) and don't matter from the point of view of training.

[Nibile]

Neil is reluctant to set french graded training circuits on it or indeed anywhere else in the Foundry which I think is missing a trick especially as both the Edge and the Works have them.

Perhaps because it the means one person is using a large area of wall to the exclusion of other users?

No, it's because they'll be downgraded after kneepadded ascents.

[slackline]

Neil is reluctant to set french graded training circuits on it or indeed anywhere else in the Foundry which I think is missing a trick especially as both the Edge and the Works have them.

Perhaps because it the means one person is using a large area of wall to the exclusion of other users?

No, it's because they'll be downgraded after kneepadded ascents.

 

[T_B]

Grading circuits is pointless, since the grades will all be wrong anyway (see the works) and don't matter from the point of view of training.

Good point!

But... those circuits on the circuit board at the works are incredibly well set. The problem with the Foundry is they just don't have the space...

[abarro81]

Get rid of the Furnace lead walls and turn it into 3 huge circuit boards side-by-side at 10, 25 and 40 degrees? Who could object?? 

[a dense loner]

Let's face it there are problems with all the walls but even if one was perfect for all kinds of training I and many others wud still be wank. I wud also be robbed of an excuse

[abarro81]

Also perfect walls would have lots of people, and as soon as there are people it stops being possible to train properly. I f***ing hate people.

[tomtom]

Neil is reluctant to set french graded training circuits on it or indeed anywhere else in the Foundry which I think is missing a trick especially as both the Edge and the Works have them.

Perhaps because it the means one person is using a large area of wall to the exclusion of other users?

No, it's because they'll be downgraded after kneepadded ascents.

Bravo!

[Dolly]

IMO part of the fun of climbing on a board is that you can just make up your own problems.
I'm not sure what proportion of the board's users would use it for circuits/up problems or mixtures of both. I guess my assumption was that it would be mainly for non circuit problems, but that's only because I haven't seen anyone doing circuits on it - I haven't climbed on it in the evenings though

[abarro81]

From my experience I'd say about 50:50 bouldering:circuits/ancap

[abarro81]

Had a look today, looks good - some real nice wooden pinches - but still needs more pockets, also less jugs IMO

[TobyD]

Grading circuits is pointless, since the grades will all be wrong anyway (see the works) and don't matter from the point of view of training.

  I am always confused about why people waste a lot of effort bitching about grades indoors.

[shark]

Grading circuits is pointless, since the grades will all be wrong anyway (see the works) and don't matter from the point of view of training.

  I am always confused about why people waste a lot of effort bitching about grades indoors.

Reasonably accurate grading is useful to choose problems, boulder circuits, circuits or routes as well as benchmark your fitness/strength. Failing that consistency would be helpful. Route setters / wall owners should come to terms with punters complaining about the grades. It comes with the territory and shows that customers care. The up and down arrows at the Foundry are a cop out. Having a good bitch about grades is one of life's simple pleasures.

[Dolly]

Well I agree that bitching about grades can be fun.
I don't agree however that there is a requirement to grade consistently indoors, or even to have a precise system. Grades for problems on real rock change and arrive at a settled/consensus grade after enough people have been on a problem and can assess it relative to others nearby and on the same rock type. These are the grades that "matter"

I'm not sure that punters complaining about grades shows that they care - I'd be concerned that pandering to that just
perpetuates number lust. 

Anyway, the board is good and it will get me stronger for climbing on real rock which is the point of the exercise as far as I'm concerned.
BTW my board is now completely stripped and the re-setting will begin in earnest if you have any requests ?

[Three Nine]

My requests would be a) a ton of bleaustone pockets and b) can I come use it?

[Jaspersharpe]

Did dense just hack Barrows account there to make it look like someone was agreeing with him?

[Moo]

I don't know what he's done but there's no way he's accumulated 144 positive karma points legitmately

[a dense loner]

The cream always rises.

I too was a bit shocked by abarros post, upon further investigation it did come at a similar time to me pm'ing him to remind him he was tall n therefore had never done a hard move whatever his log book looked like. Subliminal messaging does work

[abarro81]

I too was a bit shocked by abarros post, upon further investigation it did come at a similar time to me pm'ing him to remind him he was tall n therefore had never done a hard move whatever his log book looked like. Subliminal messaging does work

I would never claim to have done any hard moves, just lots of easy ones in a row.

[Nibile]

I too was a bit shocked by abarros post, upon further investigation it did come at a similar time to me pm'ing him to remind him he was tall n therefore had never done a hard move whatever his log book looked like. Subliminal messaging does work

I would never claim to have done any hard moves, just lots of easy ones in a row.

I'd happily undergo Sain Lawrence's very own martyrdom before pronouncing such a phrase.