[biscuit]

Currently looking at improving my performance on pinches - particularly tufas both wide and narrow.

Do i need to train big chunky pinches as well as pencil thin ones ?

I am thinking specificity and how inc performance in crimps does not translate to slopers due to the isometric nature of the action and the tendon angles ?

Any thoughts other than buying a kneepad ?

[andy_e]

performance on pinches ... both wide and narrow

Do i need to train big chunky pinches as well as pencil thin ones ?

I find small pinches the most difficult as there's less leverage between the contact points or whatever. Just buy a kneepad and you'll climb 8b+.

[Nigel Poustie]

I have done specific pinch training for a project in the past.
I did repeaters picking up a breeze block, one handed obviously.
I sometimes lifted it up to my chested but generally I'd hold for 7sec rest for 3sec and so on for 1min 10sec on both hands 3 times.
When you can do that, you'll be strong on pinches!

[biscuit]

Did it work ?

How much does a breeze block weigh ? I am a DIY numpty. I am using an old car battery with a wooden block tied to it and pinching that. It's18kg roughly. That's more for strength/recruitment really as i can only hold it a few seconds at a time.

Have you got massive hands ? I can't imagine picking up a breeze block with one hand ?

I've got a systems board with wide and narrow pinches on. i was going up and down for a minute with 20 secs off but i may look at the PE based repeaters and stay on the holds for a few seconds at a time.

[andyd]

The car battery weighs shed loads more.
Brickies pick up these blocks and move them with one hand all day, however I wouldn't want a sensual massage off one...

[biscuit]

I thought the battery would weigh more. i am not up to doing repeaters with it though.

I'll be bloody chuffed if i get to that stage.

[SA Chris]

I've got a couple of these on my desk.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0015ULV16/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00

which I like playing with and are good for holding in finger pinches. I'm sure if you are a wad they are no good for you, but a lot easier for the average deskjockey than having a breezeblock next to your laptop.

[biscuit]

I I'm sure if you are a wad they are no good for you,

No waddage here i'm afraid. I am able to get my training in on my home board early in the morning or after kids are in bed so i'll stick with my board.

I'd imagine they are quite hard to squeeze in a proper pinch grip i.e. not going into the crimp position. I will bear them in mind if i need a top up.

[SA Chris]

I can actually pinch mine with straight fingers, back two, whatever. For the money they are worth a pop to see what you think. This is not their intended use, so they don't last forever though.

[biscuit]

Either you're super strong or they are not as hard as they look.

Could be good to have around and as you say cheap as chips. Maybe good for warm ups as well, both at crag and at home. Cheers.

[SA Chris]

Nowhere near as hard as they look.

[rodma]

A 4" concrete block only weighs 14kg and is pretty easy to pick up 1 handed if you cheat by using the crease in your thumb and torquing with your fingers. If however you use the pads of both thumb and fingers it is harder. Get a fair-faced (smooth) one since the friction is worse and it won't eat your hands as much. Bear in mind that they are ridiculously easy to pick up wearing labourer's gloves and are significantly harder without. A 6" block is impossible if you have barbie doll hands like mine.

[andyd]

I've got a couple of these on my desk.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0015ULV16/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00

which I like playing with and are good for holding in finger pinches. I'm sure if you are a wad they are no good for you, but a lot easier for the average deskjockey than having a breezeblock next to your laptop.

I use one of these to hold the petrol pump lever open as they don't have the pin for some reason in the UK. I know...

[biscuit]

A 4" concrete block only weighs 14kg and is pretty easy to pick up 1 handed if you cheat by using the crease in your thumb and torquing with your fingers. If however you use the pads of both thumb and fingers it is harder. Get a fair-faced (smooth) one since the friction is worse and it won't eat your hands as much. Bear in mind that they are ridiculously easy to pick up wearing labourer's gloves and are significantly harder without. A 6" block is impossible if you have barbie doll hands like mine.

Either you're a builder or you have an obsession 

You're dead right about the thumb crease/finger angle though. I've sanded my block down that's attached to the battery so there are no 90 degree angles to cheat with.

[rodma]

Either you're a builder or you have an obsession 

You're dead right about the thumb crease/finger angle though. I've sanded my block down that's attached to the battery so there are no 90 degree angles to cheat with.

I work in the industry and have an obsession 

[Nigel Poustie]

I did the project....
I'm not sure how heavy the block I used was, heavy enough!
You'd have to already be a beast not to see any gains doing this excise.