If you have weights then worth considering weighted deadhangs. A few of us have been getting excellent results following the advice of Eva Lopez and there is a lengthy thread on her recommendations hereA more orthodox approach can be found in Probes guidance article here
In my experience when you deadhang at your limit it almost becomes a full body excercise. For sure when really pushing myself I engage arms, shoulders, abs and back. So maybe a general strengthening plan could help.
Let's keep it real.
The Eva Lopez opinions here are completely off-topic. At risk of being rude, I say that talk is cheap and fingerboarding is not. If Styx is a beginner fingerboarder, anything will do, if he does it. It doesn't always have to be rocket science or training for 9b's. A few weights attached, some offsets hangs, and some assisted isolation hangs should probably see Styx master the worse holds. Let's keep it real.
I have been reprimanded by Paul B for recommending weighted deadhangs to a beginner fingerboarder A responsible shark would have added that the guidelines for weighted deadhangs are:•You have been climbing for more than 2 years, on a weekly basis, and without major interruptions; •You are older than 16 (Morrison and Schöffl, 2007); (or have the body of an adolescent) •You have a low or medium level of finger strength as measured by the following tests: ◦Being able to hang ■more than 15 seconds from a 24mm-deep edge, ■less than 35 seconds from a 20mm edge ■and less than 10 seconds from a 10mm edge.For everyone else the answer to life, the universe and everything is weighted deadhangs
Awesome, thanks for the input. I'll stick to a similar plan that I'm doing atm and leave the Eva Lopez stuff until I'm not such a weakling.I'm thinking about trying this for the next month or so, what do you think? All reps 7s on, 3s off.........
Quite true, but none of the others come with a quote such as this:"More power and greater endurance for only 1 minute a week!" - It sounds like a claim made by JMLthis could once again descend into a circular argument, yet my point still stands; it isn't appropriate here.
If the only question is how to progress on a fingerboard, the answer is one of the following three items:More time hangingMore weightSmaller holds.
Remember - more does not always equal better.