[Fiend]

FIRST POST BITCHES! 

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Gym, heavy weights, swim 500m - good, PB of 90kg squat, also 3 reps 75kg benchpress, tired for swimming.
T - Indoor routes @ GCC, several medium/hard routes - good, lots of crimpy routes, felt pretty strong.
W - Swim 1km - fine, bit boring but did a good job.
T - Rest
F - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, medium problems - okay, mostly pottering.
S - Nothing
S - Outdoor trad @ Limekilns, 2 easy routes 1 tricky route - fine, good pump and training on tricky route, elbow sore due to cold.

Weight - 12 arsing stone.

Decent week overall. Actually pretty good for training really. Solid weights session, felt good down the wall, got back into swimming. Okay trad today but cold so elbow feels tweaky again (it was better earlier in the week).

[tomtom]

A good week... First time I've got out four times in a week for ages..

M: Harmers. Weak. Failed on easy stuff.
T:
W: Cliff. Creaking, but getting better.
T:
F: Harmers. Better. Got up things I couldn't on Monday. Focused effort on Baby bloc...
Sa:
Su: Harmers. Better still. But baby bloc is really hard. Crimptastic. 

Overall, getting back up to strength.

[shark]

Thanks Fiendus

Weight: 11.6-8   

M.Early AM. Physio - sport massage and measured up for shoe insert. Noon. weighted hangs +5kg  Had a go at deadlifting with inserts. Was rubbish. Eve Shed V hot. Felt strongish working moves but struggled to do links with short rests. gave up adter two goes Did a 20:10 set.(actually 24:12)
T. Eve Shed. 29deg!! Got fan out. Did a good link 4x and did end section twice. Hard to gauge if doing well with the heat
W.
T. Noon. weighted hangs +5kg
F. Noon. Shed. Hard time/miniscule progress doing circuit with short rests. Just not  working trying to do it with short restsas too busted when I come off. Next session revert to big as possible links. Drove to Edinburgh with Tom.
S. Ratho BMC Open Youth Comp. Some impressive kids out there  I got suckered into trying a couple of boulder problems and routes by Mark. Tom came 8th out of 10 in his group. His first lead climbing comp (they top rope at his age in BYCS) Only just old enough to participate by 8 days so we were happy with that.   
S. PM Shed. Diffrent sections of circuit with 10 mins rest. 128 moves in total.Good session.  Tried 20:10's later but it wasnt going to happen so stopped after 10 moves.

Again dieting resolve disappeared. Plans to go to tor didnt work out but enjoying the training in the Shed so dont feel too bothered. 

Got a shoe insert. Hopefully will help with averting lower back pain recurrence.

Still can't believe that none of the various physios I've seen over the last 25 years haven't noticed (or checked) my differing leg lengths.

[csl]

Goals for July
Climb indoors regularly - Failed
Get at least 5 days on rock 2/5 - failed
Meet climbers in Cambridge to share lifts with - failed
Onsight E5 - failed
18.20 5km - failed

Mon-Thursday - Nothing
Friday - 10k ride
Saturday - 30k ride
Sunday - slow 5k run

lacking motivation at the moment, new goal - get the fuck out of cambridge permanently.

[cheque]

M- Rest
T- Horseshoe. Baking hot. 6a warm-up felt desperate. Failed to even reach chains on 6b+  Took loads of big leader falls. On next go it was 9PM and the rock had cooled down- did it with ease. Top-roped it again to get gear out. Too late to get on 6c I'd hoped to redpoint.
W- Rest
T- Wildcat. Partner took ages leading his route so onsighted my HVS in one piotch by headtorch. Ace and good confidence builder.
F- Rest
S- Ravensdale. Led an HVS then somehow ended up leading both pitches of a chossy VS that my mate picked instead of either of the E1s I wanted to do. Partner's illness meant that it was then game over.
S- Knackered and tweaky so four meals, rest, stretching and family stuff.

No supplementary training but loads of climbing (5 days out of 8 on rock between last Saturday and this one). Nothing particularly hard but climbing very smoothly and confidence is sky-high which is where I want to be for Pembroke trip in three weeks. Need to have at least one finger-intensive day in the next week and hopefully some harder routes/ bouldering.

[Fiend]

128, I messed that up, the shame. I can't be trusted with complicated stuff like power 

[nai]

goals 8a, E4

M - stanage trad, lots of low E point leads & 2nds but fell off low on The Asp, got on it an hour too late and knew I'd fucked it up early on after faffing with gear for too long and greasing out of the jams time after time, opted to ab and strip rather than dog up as if that makes a subsequent ascent more valid
t
W ELo plan benchmarking, disappointed to find only required 7.5kg (12.5%) added weight
t
F (AM) Shoulders, reaches & assisted lockoffs. ELo session 1 - delighted to find scales were fooked on W and actually added weight was 12kg (20%). Felt like doing extra sets but reluctantly quit at 3.
S (PM) needed to keep Sunday as a rest day and felt fine so did a repeat of Friday without the assisted lockoffs, only 34 hours rest and I'm sure it's not part of the plan but felt fine
s rest
 

[Muenchener]

29.07.2012

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight.
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes by ticking several classics in the V/V+ range in the Dolomites in three weeks.
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   
M: Bike to work ca 25km
T: Climbing, Bad Heilbrunn. Sandstone quarry. Frictiony sandstone clmbing turns out not to be a good idea on a humid 30 degree evening, but still makes a change from the wall
W:
T: Hillwalking
F:
S:
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Instead of projecting a handful of 6Bs I try to do the entire 5C circuit, which turns out to be a pretty intensive stamina session after the first couple of dozen. Final score 35/39.

[Yossarian]

STG - Lose some weight and turn into bronzed Adonis

MTG - Regain cycling fitness, run a decent half marathon, lift some heavy weights, bit more bike racing.

LTG - Ironman / Sub 8hr Marmotte / move slightly nearer some rock and start climbing again

Monday - Sneaky mountain XC bike ride PM
Tuesday - Off
Wednesday - Deadlifting. Pissed around warming up for ages, then managed 4 sets of 8x 130kg. Will move up to 140 this week.
Thursday - Treadmill run - 45 minutes. Could've carried on longer actually. (I was a fucking appalling runner when I was young, so doing anything of any length these days still feels like a decent achievement.)
Friday - AM - Upper body weights - nothing spectacular / PM - mountain bike XC ride
Saturday - 2x mtb XC circuits
Sunday - 5 mile run with pram. Bastard headwind on the way back slowed things right down

Hovered around 92.7kg most of the week, but bizarrely 94.9 this morning. Feel quite shitty with minor throat infection too. Also managed to put current road bike out of action and then snapped gear lever on backup, so mountain biking only for the time being. Not a bad thing as I'm racing in a fortnight. Tan is coming on...

[rich d]

Now that I've turned 40 decided to get a bit more structured been training quite well for an old punter so going to use power club to push on.
Week goals - 4 training sessions weight below 83kg, no alcohol until Saturday.
Month goals font6c on grit
October goal font7a on grit weight to 78kg
Christmas consistant on font 7a

Monday fingerboard session
Tuesday press ups, stretching, one legged squat progressions and a bit of core
Wednesday good fingerboard session couple of little PBs thanks to Lore for the encouragement
Thursday glasgow hotel with work - (was 40th) rubbish! Didn't even get drunk
Friday quick fingerboard session then olympics too much beer and lots of crap food
Saturday hung over - no idea what I did
Sunday couple of hours at burbage 6b in bag, then twisted/strained ankle limped back to car weight averaged at 84kg

[shark]

Now that I've turned 40 decided to get a bit more structured been training quite well for an old punter so going to use power club to push on.

 

Happy 40th

[abarro81]

Just not  working trying to do it with short restsas too busted when I come off.

My approach would probably be along the lines of... find a length of rest between sections (10s? 20s?) where you can just make it round in your 3 or 4 sections, do this ~4 times with 10min rests. Then reduce those rests by a few sec each session you do of this until you can link it all.

[shark]

Just not  working trying to do it with short restsas too busted when I come off.

My approach would probably be along the lines of... find a length of rest between sections (10s? 20s?) where you can just make it round in your 3 or 4 sections, do this ~4 times with 10min rests. Then reduce those rests by a few sec each session you do of this until you can link it all.

Thanks for noticing. I totally agree if this was a typical circuit with moves of similar difficulty. The complicating factor is that it features the the throw move that busts me which if I fall off mid move after doing the starting section then I need at least 45 seconds to recover which is too long. I want to do as many moves into the throw as possible but to be successful with the throw. I think completing that move when fatigued is the key to unlocking the whole route for me. That's why I'm trying to add a couple of more moves into the throw with each session until hopefully I can do the whole circuit with one rest ( on the undercuts before the gaston moves at the end) and then aim to reduce that rest with each subsequent session until I can do 3 or 4 sets without any rest.

Fancy giving it a go?
 

[abarro81]

Sounds sensible

Fancy giving it a go?

Would do, but I'm off to France tonight for ~5 weeks... 

[Fiend]

I feel Scotland is missing out on the thesiger UK world tour 2012 

Possibly for good reason 

[Duma]

fix wrist
run

Have I missed a week? Can't remember. Anyway...

Wrist rehab nearly every day, allowed pullups in the routine now, scary how hard they feel. Been running twice in the last two weeks, feeling pretty slow and the heat makes it harder, but good to be doing something. Spent three straight days drinking the weekend before last, but been pretty good since then.

67-68kg.

Physio on Wed, hopefully might be allowed to start some light climbing. Wrist still pretty sore in forced flexion though, so we'll see what she says.

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July(Done), to 165lbs by end of August. (169lbs on Monday)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (8/10 done)
Put Up 2 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).

Monday - Run 4mi, wtd Hangs(3x +91lbs), x-fit
Tuesday - Finished new front Deck!!!!!! My Back hurt like hell from drilling in around 1000 screws.....
Wednesday - 1hr mtn bike
Thursday -  Wtd Hangs (5x +91lbs), Run - 6mi, x-fit
Friday - Headed out to Archangel to camp for the weekend with the family.  Got out late, so no climbing Friday....
Saturday - Quick early morning cleaning and hiking session before the family woke up, then bouldering, warmed up, then did a new 7C and a new? 7C+? (I think its new and I think its 7C+, it was super tensiony on slopers which is different from most of what I've been doing this summer  ) , then took a break, then a quick clean and scrub of 8 new problems from v0 to v7, then back to camp for dinner and beer (a 30 oz 13%ABV homebrew Belgian that is by far the best I've brewed!!!!), then a late night scramble while a bit toasted to check out a bunch of new stuff my friend David had been cleaning and climbing...  More to look forward too!!
Sunday - Hike around for about an hour, then did a 35M 5.7 with 2 bolts (any idea what that would translate too?), ended the day with a short run with my wife.

Overall another great week.  So glad the weather worked out nice for camping.  No rain at all which seemed like a miracle. 

[cheque]

did a 35M 5.7 with 2 bolts (any idea what that would translate to?)

Probably ~HVS 4c if the bolts were the only gear, ~VS 4c if not.   

My Power Club entries are clearly influencing you. My advice is to stop reading them now while you can still crimp. 

[Sasquatch]

did a 35M 5.7 with 2 bolts (any idea what that would translate to?)

Probably ~HVS 4c if the bolts were the only gear, ~VS 4c if not.   

My Power Club entries are clearly influencing you. My advice is to stop reading them now while you can still crimp. 

That was pretty much it for the gear.  You can get a .25 cam in about 10 feet from the anchor, but you really don't need it then.  It's been a while since I've been runout on rope, so that was certainly a fun heady outing.  My sons first outside roped climbing.  He TR'd it several times and was wanting to get on something harder

My last time on trad outside was a bit of a mindfu@&.  I was about 40ft out on a slab 6 pitches up and both feet slipped.  About a foot below them were two perfectly placed knobs my feet caught on and I stopped.  Took quite a while before I could sack up and finish, but what choice do you have at that point.  My head was not in the game for some time after that.  Was defo looking at a long hospital visit.

[Nibile]

Heavy week under many aspects. Temps again over 35 degrees and long (for me) work days made everything difficult. Luckily the presence of Mr. and Mrs. Monolith made everythig much easier.
Mon - beast. Max hangs two arms +6/10 kg. 1 set. Few one arm tets.
Tue - board. 1 problem set and tried, mostly single moves. Poor skin, a bit tired but not bad. Vol 4. Int 7.
Wed - beast. Max hangs two arms +6/10 kg. Strong esp. middle and ring monos.
Thu - rest. Heavy lunch with wine. Bad.
Fri - board. Boiling hot. Very tired from Wednesday. 1 problem set. Single moves. Vol 2. Int 6. Useless session apart the mental effort of starting it and trying to do it, and almost doing it.
Sat - board. Hot but not bad, esp. after spending the previous night heavily on the G&T.
Sun - bouldering. Rock is nice, climbing is fun. Heavy day. Lots of climbing, lots of fun. Tired and hot though. Vol 9+. Int 8.

Many thanks to Tom for the psyche.

[Sasquatch]

Sun - bouldering. Rock is nice, climbing is fun. Heavy day. Lots of climbing, lots of fun.

Yes it is!!!

[James Yeah]

Sport and boulder outdoor 7a. Put around 10lbs of muscle on.

Currently eating 3000 healthy cals a day.



Mon - Weights, bench, curls, deadlifts.  P90x back and biceps.
Tue - Weights.  Badly wrecked my right shoulder.
Weds - 1 hour of stretching.
Thurs - 4 mile run.
Fri - Abs.
Sat - Rest
Sun - Rest


Pretty terrible week thanks to damaging my right shoulder.  It seems better but now my left trap/shoulder is tweaked. Going to carry on with Starting Strength this week and hopefully work through the niggles.

Also been doing some handstand practice, not sure why but as someone 6ft 1 tall, the idea of being able to hold a hand stand appeals to me.

[csl]

@James Yeah

not sure if you mean you've been doing rippetoes this week or whether your going to start it from now. But i would leave out the P90x while you do it. Rippetoes is a good routine. If you are trying to gain weight supplementary p90x is likely to be more of a hindrance than a help in my opinion.

The starting strength workouts may seem small, but keep adding weight to the bar and you'll soon progress.

[richdraws]

STG (before Sept) - Boulder 7a
MTG (Jan/Feb2013) - Boulder 7c
LTG lets see how we go

M -  nowt
T -   put fingerboard up and stretched fingers out a little, not really a workout
W-  40 mins of gentle fingerboarding, mostly slopers and 2 finger pockets.
T-   Works session, struggled on slopes in the heat so tried some of the easier blues. Managed one  Its an improvement.
F- woke up with a slight sore throat
S- Works session, sore throat slightly worse, shouldn't have climbed. Did another couple of blues.
S- Ill.

[James Yeah]

@James Yeah

not sure if you mean you've been doing rippetoes this week or whether your going to start it from now. But i would leave out the P90x while you do it. Rippetoes is a good routine. If you are trying to gain weight supplementary p90x is likely to be more of a hindrance than a help in my opinion.

The starting strength workouts may seem small, but keep adding weight to the bar and you'll soon progress.

Sorry should have been more clear. 

I started Rippetoe's starting strength yesterday. 

The problem is i don't really want to do SS workout B because i'm really not keen on presses or power cleans.  I'm probably going to throw in barbell rows instead or something.

I also really enjoy P90X and have been doing it for a couple of months with pretty good results so i'm not really keen to drop it entirely especially as i find weight lifting horrendously boring.  I also find p90/insanity pretty untouchable for hard cardio which i really enjoy.

I may try and limit my p90 sessions to 1-2 a week as i'm really not keen on taking 3 rest days a week especially when SS only takes around an hour or so at the gym.  I know rest days are vitally important but as i don't do much all day and i'm never on my feet i figure my recovery time is not as necessary as other peoples.

The hardest thing i'm finding is to eat 3000 healthy calories a day, i feel like i'm permanently eating but i refuse to do a dirty bulk and then have issues cutting later on.

[Duncan Disorderly]

STG: Get into good habits of van buying, buy a van and get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some recently lost climbing fitness; buy a van, climb near to limit..... Anyfuckingwhere!

LTG: Attain consistent low milage van; don't lose thousands of pounds.

M: Look for a van and go surfing.
T: Look for a van and go surfing and bouldering @ Northcott.
W: Look for a van and go surfing.
T:  Look for a van and go bouldering @ the sweatbox formerly known as The Works.
F: Go look at a van - almost get convinced to buy it... Go with gut instinct and jump in teh car while they're not looking.
S: Short session at Burbagge. Go look at another van with 30K extra on the clock - realise I dodged a bullet the day before - go gut!
S: Look for a van and have 1 hr board session... Not bad...

Been a bit preocupied this last couple of week looking for this bloody van - think I've sourced one now (fingers x'd - going to London to see it on Thursday) so will get back on the horse (until the conversion starts that is). Actually did more climbing than I thought and surfed a few nice waves down in Bude...

This week: Board, Tor, Works, Van....

[Fiend]

Too funny you van-obssessed choad 

[rich d]

Now that I've turned 40 decided to get a bit more structured been training quite well for an old punter so going to use power club to push on.
Week goals - 4 training sessions weight below 83kg, no alcohol until Saturday.
Month goals font6c on grit
October goal font7a on grit weight to 78kg
Christmas consistant on font 7a

Poor start to the week, Monday didn't have the kids (nice surprise) so ended up going to the pub with the wife and getting a chineses after. Felt like death yesterday so managed to only do some one legged squats progression and ankle strengthening stuff only. Revised weekly goal - no alcohol for the rest of the week, can still get 4 good sessions in though. (sorry to bore everyone with punterish updates)

[Sasquatch]

Poor start to the week, Monday didn't have the kids (nice surprise) so ended up going to the pub with the wife and getting a chineses after.

I end up doing the exact same thing when we don't have the kids.  I always think it's funny that having kids has actually helped me be more consistant with training.  Unfortunately, it doesn't apply to actually getting on rock

[Dr T]

Poor start to the week, Monday didn't have the kids (nice surprise) so ended up going to the pub with the wife and getting a chineses after.

I end up doing the exact same thing when we don't have the kids.  I always think it's funny that having kids has actually helped me be more consistant with training.  Unfortunately, it doesn't apply to actually getting on rock

Truth that....

[shark]

Poor start to the week, Monday didn't have the kids (nice surprise) so ended up going to the pub with the wife and getting a chineses after.

I end up doing the exact same thing when we don't have the kids.  I always think it's funny that having kids has actually helped me be more consistant with training.  Unfortunately, it doesn't apply to actually getting on rock

Truth that....

Hey don't go busting the myth that us family men would be climbing at least two grades if it wasn't for family commitments. 

[Dr T]

Poor start to the week, Monday didn't have the kids (nice surprise) so ended up going to the pub with the wife and getting a chineses after.

I end up doing the exact same thing when we don't have the kids.  I always think it's funny that having kids has actually helped me be more consistant with training.  Unfortunately, it doesn't apply to actually getting on rock

Truth that....

Hey don't go busting the myth that us family men would be climbing at least two grades if it wasn't for family commitments. 

I think I'm climbing at least a grade harder cause of Jr T - I take the time I get to actually train and train intensely (on the board or beastmaker) rather than spend all night thrash around on one or two problems with the likely lads

[rich d]

Poor start to the week, Monday didn't have the kids (nice surprise) so ended up going to the pub with the wife and getting a chineses after.

I end up doing the exact same thing when we don't have the kids.  I always think it's funny that having kids has actually helped me be more consistant with training.  Unfortunately, it doesn't apply to actually getting on rock

Truth that....

Hey don't go busting the myth that us family men would be climbing at least two grades if it wasn't for family commitments. 

I think I'm climbing at least a grade harder cause of Jr T - I take the time I get to actually train and train intensely (on the board or beastmaker) rather than spend all night thrash around on one or two problems with the likely lads

I definately use the time more wisely when training, the problem is getting time on rock - it's often just a quick couple of hours squeezed in, I really miss having a whole day climbing. This does mean that I tend to not warm up properly, not rest properly and trash myself when on rock. Still weirdly I enjoy the beastmaker even if my elbows don't. It does make any time I spend on rock precious, and means that even training feels like special time.

[Sasquatch]

Poor start to the week, Monday didn't have the kids (nice surprise) so ended up going to the pub with the wife and getting a chineses after.

I end up doing the exact same thing when we don't have the kids.  I always think it's funny that having kids has actually helped me be more consistant with training.  Unfortunately, it doesn't apply to actually getting on rock

Truth that....

Hey don't go busting the myth that us family men would be climbing at least two grades if it wasn't for family commitments. 

I think I'm climbing at least a grade harder cause of Jr T - I take the time I get to actually train and train intensely (on the board or beastmaker) rather than spend all night thrash around on one or two problems with the likely lads

I definately use the time more wisely when training, the problem is getting time on rock - it's often just a quick couple of hours squeezed in, I really miss having a whole day climbing. This does mean that I tend to not warm up properly, not rest properly and trash myself when on rock. Still weirdly I enjoy the beastmaker even if my elbows don't. It does make any time I spend on rock precious, and means that even training feels like special time.

Wow - Agreement      How'd that happen.

The bolded part sucks and I have the same problem......

[Dr T]

I definately use the time more wisely when training, the problem is getting time on rock - it's often just a quick couple of hours squeezed in, I really miss having a whole day climbing. This does mean that I tend to not warm up properly, not rest properly and trash myself when on rock. Still weirdly I enjoy the beastmaker even if my elbows don't. It does make any time I spend on rock precious, and means that even training feels like special time.

Wow - Agreement      How'd that happen.

The bolded part sucks and I have the same problem......

I think we're all singing from the same hymn sheet here!