[abarro81]

As it says on the tin (and presuming it's still dry on the weekend). I can crimp ok but don't want to spend the whole day boning the hell out of them as my LH is recovering from a couple of pulley injuries. I've got Indian Summer down as a possible as supposedly the hard bit isn't too crimpy on that hand.. any others? What're La Connection and Dalliance like?

[JohnM]

You have to use quite a small crimp for the left hand at the end of the traverse section on Indian Summer although you don't have to pull extremely hard on it especially if you can get a lot of force through your feet.

[tim palmer]

Dalliance is really boney, the initial boulder (ft7a+ or so) involves crimping a left hand undercut sidepull hard, then there is a rest and then a really crimpy thin vert section, to a rest and then a final problem (ft 7a?) with a crimpy pocket for the left hand.

Haven't tried la connection, but obviously you will have to do the intial boulder of dalliance, and the little crimpy top little boulder of grooved arete

[Stu Littlefair]

You want stuff in that grade range?

Ecstacy, not crimpy at all
Mandela, not crimpy (or dry) at all
Massala Martyr and Brief Encounter, not crimpy but too powerful for you
They Brush Me - don't remember being crimpy except where it joins complete control. Hard.

[JacobJacob]

Ecstasy? Mostly big holds, one LH crimp at the start of the top boulder but its not that small and beautifully made out of Sika so it's fairly ergonomic...

[abarro81]

Thanks a lot for the knowledge folks.

You want stuff in that grade range?

Might do some onsighting but good to know what options are like if I want to redpoint and I already heard True North is crimpy at the crux...

Massala Martyr and Brief Encounter, not crimpy but too powerful for you

Like that move at the foundry? 
These or Indian sound like a good bet. (I got told to save Ecstacy in case flashing 8b ever gets on the cards.)

[tim palmer]

(I got told to save Ecstacy in case flashing 8b ever gets on the cards.)

I would warrant that this will be downgraded soon (ridiculously) so if you want your 8b flash you better get your skates on.

[Paul B]

Its not as if a downgrade hasn't been on the cards for a long time.

[tim palmer]

Its not as if a downgrade hasn't been on the cards for a long time.

Sure it isn't high in the grade but it is significantly harder than any of the 8a+'s I have done at kilnsey.

[nik at work]

Massala Martyr

It is a bit crimpy Stu, well not not crimpy but fingery. The left hand sidepull/undercut hold that you slap for the finishing (of the hard climbing) jug off is a fingery wot-not. A bit irrelevant if it's too hard for Barrows regardless but hey-ho

[Adam Lincoln]

Its not as if a downgrade hasn't been on the cards for a long time.

I thought Ondra was the only person who thought it was 8a+? Everyone else just says soft for 8b. Full tilt being hard for 8b.

[abarro81]

I would warrant that this will be downgraded soon (ridiculously) so if you want your 8b flash you better get your skates on.

If i get my skates on I'll not be getting 8b flash... Needs a few years more progression for a realistic chance I think.

[Serpico]

Its not as if a downgrade hasn't been on the cards for a long time.

I thought Ondra was the only person who thought it was 8a+? Everyone else just says soft for 8b. Full tilt being hard for 8b.

The only person? People have been saying it's 8a+ for years, it's not even as hard as Urgent Action.

[Adam Lincoln]

Its not as if a downgrade hasn't been on the cards for a long time.

I thought Ondra was the only person who thought it was 8a+? Everyone else just says soft for 8b. Full tilt being hard for 8b.

The only person? People have been saying it's 8a+ for years, it's not even as hard as Urgent Action.

Best make it 8a just to be sure then.

[tim palmer]

Its not as if a downgrade hasn't been on the cards for a long time.

I thought Ondra was the only person who thought it was 8a+? Everyone else just says soft for 8b. Full tilt being hard for 8b.

The only person? People have been saying it's 8a+ for years, it's not even as hard as Urgent Action.

Yes it is, that was one of the 8a+ s I was referring to


[/quote]

[north_country_boy]

Its not as if a downgrade hasn't been on the cards for a long time.

I thought Ondra was the only person who thought it was 8a+? Everyone else just says soft for 8b. Full tilt being hard for 8b.

The only person? People have been saying it's 8a+ for years, it's not even as hard as Urgent Action.

Yes it is, that was one of the 8a+ s I was referring to

[/quote]

I agree Tim. Its definitely harder than Urgent Action.

[Bonjoy]

 

[Stu Littlefair]

 

[JohnM]

God forbid we should have an 8b in this country that's low in the grade. 

[Kingy]

Lets keep all soft 8bs in Yorkshire please and away from the peak

[Doylo]

Lets keep all soft 8bs in Yorkshire please and away from the peak

Best get Zeke shipped to Yorkshire then 

[tim palmer]

Ha ha I was wondering how long it would be before someone said that.  It is only soft because everyone seems to climb round to the left to clip the mid crux clip and then climb the route

[Paul B]

Ha ha I was wondering how long it would be before someone said that.  It is only soft because everyone seems to climb round to the left to clip the mid crux clip and then climb the route

or they just have it pre-clipped!

[moose]

Are there any  Yorkshire 8a's with no small left-hand or right-hand crimps, preferably not too burly or stamina based, that can be climbed  by someone who's very slow moving and bad at identifying sequences? Long reaches are okay, but only if you don't have to lock off to make use of them.

[Andy F]

Grooved Arete doesn't have any left hand crimps and is soft for the grade.