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Kilnsey 8a+ to 8b+ without too many LH crimps (Read 13081 times)

TobyD

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Grooved Arete doesn't have any left hand crimps and is soft for the grade.

i understood it was a hard 8a+?

Andy F

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One man's hard for the grade is another man's easy. They're all subjective anyway.

abarro81

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Done grooved, thought hard 8a+

Andy F

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The Ripper doesn't have any boney LH crimps.

north_country_boy

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The Ripper doesn't have any boney LH crimps.

Really?

Grooved arete is hard 8a+ imo, but still easier than Ecstasy.


Andy F

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On the crux there is a boney crimp for your RH and then a boney Gaston for your LH.

north_country_boy

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On the crux there is a boney crimp for your RH and then a boney Gaston for your LH.

Do you crimp said Gaston?  ;)

tim palmer

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One man's hard for the grade is another man's easy. They're all subjective anyway.
:agree:

i thought grooved arete was easier than urgent action

Andy F

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On the crux there is a boney crimp for your RH and then a boney Gaston for your LH.

Do you crimp said Gaston?  ;)

In a Gaston type style, erm, yes  :oops:

Probes

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On the crux there is a boney crimp for your RH and then a boney Gaston for your LH.
Grooved Arete doesn't have any left hand crimps and is soft for the grade.

  :doubt: I smell fibs! I can think of 4 holds you crimp with left on grooved? & by the looks of it you may aswell gaffa tape your fingers into a crimp for y ripper.

Andy F

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The Ripper is mostly undercuts/sidepulls a la Malham. GA does have one crimp for your left, at the top, but you can open hand it.

Andy F

abarro81

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The Ripper is mostly undercuts/sidepulls a la Malham. GA does have one crimp for your left, at the top, but you can open hand it.

Andy F

By crimps, I mean holds you crimp. So crimpy sidepulls or gastons are just as bad as any other holds... Pretty sure I crimped both at the top of GA and on the move to the rest hold, though I may be misremembering. 

Doylo

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Ha ha I was wondering how long it would be before someone said that.  It is only soft because everyone seems to climb round to the left to clip the mid crux clip and then climb the route

or they just have it pre-clipped!

After down climbing or course  ;)

 

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