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Stanton in the Woods (Read 23696 times)

Fj

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Stanton in the Woods
May 06, 2012, 08:39:39 pm
Visited this place for the first time today and was very impressed.

We did several of the classic ticks and found a very clean slab just past the documented problems near the tramps cave/roof.

Not particularly hard, but anyone know names/grades?

cheers

Bonjoy

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#1 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 07, 2012, 10:09:47 am
Think they are recent additions from Tom Allsop (Tallsop on UKB), details on UKC Logbook

Fj

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#2 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 07, 2012, 12:34:18 pm
cheers.
checked PBinfo, forgot to look there.

leeroy

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#3 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 10, 2012, 11:20:51 pm
think i saw you there fj.

seems a good thread to say that i cleaned green chapel and eyes to the skies and theyre now both in condition. green chapel is stunning, get to it and keep in in nick.

Johnny Brown

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#4 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 11, 2012, 08:42:24 am
Hey, good effort, last time I went was really disappointed with the moss on Green Chapel - brilliant problem.

cofe

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#5 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 11, 2012, 09:28:42 am
good work. how clean was other stuff?

leeroy

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#6 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 11, 2012, 01:00:45 pm
good work. how clean was other stuff?

bumlog area is well travelled atm, bit much chalk if anything. hangman clean and great. clandestiny hadnt been done in a while. green chapel and eyes both clean. didnt look at further left stuff but fj and others where climbing there so it must have been ok.

nothing aside from maybe the two tree runner routes were unclimable in current state.

cofe

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#7 Stanton in the Woods
May 11, 2012, 01:05:10 pm
Great stuff. I'm so happy the Bumlog name is sticking.

leeroy

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#8 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 11, 2012, 01:17:13 pm
Great stuff. I'm so happy the Bumlog name is sticking.

the name is great, the grade isnt ;) dont take kindly to multi session 7a shutdowns....

cofe

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#9 Stanton in the Woods
May 11, 2012, 01:23:23 pm
Hang on, are you saying the Random Grade Generator needs re-calibrating?!

leeroy

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#10 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 11, 2012, 01:28:30 pm
nah of course not, the "if in doubt keep it at 7a" rule should never be tampered with...


cofe

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#11 Stanton in the Woods
May 11, 2012, 01:39:54 pm
You can't even use the not-tall-enough excuse on that one.

Bonjoy

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#12 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 11, 2012, 03:03:11 pm
BOOM!

cofe

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#13 Stanton in the Woods
May 11, 2012, 03:45:54 pm
Wow! No beard, that must be a good few years old.

Bonjoy

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#14 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 16, 2012, 07:35:59 pm
Did a bit more cleaning here the other day. De-mossed Appliance Friction which is great. Climbed some of the newly recorded stuff on the LH side, some really good additions, especially Short Arete SS which is very like Lean-to at the other end, maybe even better; Left Hand Slab and Little Drummer Boy a great roof crack prob well worth the finding (well hidden above Short Arete).
Also did Hangman without the base block at about 7a+. Eliminate but good fun as you have to actually use the nice holds rather than just walk your hands up them off a massive kneebar.

bolehillbilly

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#15 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 18, 2012, 02:12:17 pm
Quick visit last night.  It's good to see the left hand end getting some more traffic, there's some choice bits down there.  Good work on cleaning the mono slab problems and also those beyond which are in good condition again now.  Will try and clean up the lines on 'little slab'  next time i visit.

Bonjoy

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#16 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 18, 2012, 02:33:17 pm
Any idea what the prob left of Left Hand Slab is? On the almost vertical left sidewall of the mono slab boulder. Couldn't find it on UKC logbook but it was clean and I presume has been done before. Have called it Slab End for now but it deserves better.

bolehillbilly

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#17 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 18, 2012, 03:11:39 pm
Was wondering this myself, i'll ask TAllsopp if he knows.  Climbs nicely, though i missed a high right sidepull initially as it's still a bit hidden by the moss.  Quality problem.

Bonjoy

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#18 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 18, 2012, 03:43:01 pm
Yeah I nearly missed that hold first time. Then did it again deliberately missing it as it made for a good tenuous finish!

Bonjoy

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#19 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 18, 2012, 03:45:14 pm
See if you can't persue Tom to write his stuff up on peakbouldering.info when you see him. I've put some stuff on but only the things I'd repeated.

bolehillbilly

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#20 Re: Stanton in the Woods
May 19, 2012, 08:43:47 pm
He's being elusive for one so tall of late but will track him down sometime this coming week. 

Cleaned up the 'little slab' lines this morning, so should be climbable again after a final brush when it dries out. 

cofe

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#21 Re: Stanton in the Woods
September 16, 2012, 11:11:50 am
A few of us did a circuit here yesterday afternoon - really nice after a summer with no climbing. Lots of stuff clean, other stuff a bit mucky. Top effort to the guys who cleaned the big slab below Eyes to the Skies - the best Font 6 slab problems in the Peak? Stunning. A bit more traffic would help, as would all the bracken dying. The rock quality is really good.

bolehillbilly

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#22 Re: Stanton in the Woods
September 16, 2012, 09:05:31 pm
Good to see the slab getting a bit of action.  Have added 15-20 new/previously unrecorded problems here along with Tim Banton and Tallsop over the past 6 months.  The slab lines are class.  Some quality shorter walls up and left of Eyes are worth checking out too.  Have put all new stuff to UKC logbook but waiting for Tallsop to moderate it into some sense. Also added to peakbouldering.info. 

cofe

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#23 Re: Stanton in the Woods
September 16, 2012, 09:28:56 pm
Bonjoy sent me some info. You guys cleaned the slab eh? Great effort. A few vids and some nice pics and hopefully more people will go. Some stuff I've done before was pretty dirty, but it doesn't take much to clean up. The arête left of Green Chapel needs a proper clean though. Although it's not home to the Big Numbers, it would be nice if the flake project got done.

Will post a video in a bit if it ever finishes rendering...

Scouse D

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#24 Re: Stanton in the Woods
September 16, 2012, 09:41:34 pm
I second Cofe's thanks fr cleaning up the slab, was the most enjoyable thing I've climbed in a while - beautiful smearing.

 

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