[Johnny Brown]

There is, on the other side of the moor nearer the old protest camp.

[Bonjoy]

Project Dyno!! 

Bit bunched for you I think yoot. I could point you at a few other elsewhere though...

Point away!

Come to think of it there’s another one at SitW. The wall in between Bumbleknee and Boondongle. Steep wall, feet on tiny slab, hands on flat overlap, probably double to top. 7b+-7c?
A good one to do nearby is on the Andle Stone. Left of the arete left of Andle Stone Wall (the left side of which is climbed by a reachy 7a called Spook). Dyno to slopers off right facing finger flake. 7b-7c?
Also pretty nearby, at Cratcliffe, the wall right of Invasion of the Cider Women. Just on the slab side of vertical. Rock onto protruding lip of high break using small layaway and launch for micro jugs. 7c-8a?
The project arete at Harthill Quarry (pics of Dan V on this on other thread). 8a–8b?

[tallsop]

I thought Tim had done that project dyno on boondoggle block?

[Johnny Brown]

Is Spook Pat King's line? Struggling to remember if he stuck the dyno...

[SA Chris]

There is, on the other side of the moor nearer the old protest camp.

Fair enough. Stanton Worriers then?

[Bonjoy]

I thought Tim had done that project dyno on boondoggle block?

Boondongle is Tim's dyno. The thing I had in mind is further left (unless I'm mistaken on where Boondongle goes). The line I spotted looks a fair bit harder than 6c (might well be easier than it looks obviously).

[Bonjoy]

Is Spook Pat King's line? Struggling to remember if he stuck the dyno...

Yes Spook is Pat's Line. You can static it if you're tall enough. There's no way you can static the proj dyno.

[bolehillbilly]

I thought Tim had done that project dyno on boondoggle block?

Boondongle is Tim's dyno. The thing I had in mind is further left (unless I'm mistaken on where Boondongle goes). The line I spotted looks a fair bit harder than 6c (might well be easier than it looks obviously).

Not sure about how much rock there is left to go at here but it might be possible to squeeze a line in.  The break does tend to seep a little in places so it's worth giving it a few days if anyone was thinking of checking it out.
Boondongle might well be harder than 6c.  I haven't tried this one but i think Tim's grading might be a bit conservative sometimes.  His original comment to me was 'maybe 6 something'.

[Dolly]

I'm thinking of sneaking off work at some point on Thursday to have a look here.
I haven't been but obviously its in the er...woods.
Anyone know if its at all likely to be dry ?


Cheers in advance for knowledge

[Bonjoy]

I heard it was in great fettle the other day, so should be fine if the weather is.

[Dolly]

Great thanks

[bolehillbilly]

 I went down 10 days ago after a few dry days and it was all in very good nick apart from a fallen tree blocking the mono slab lines.  We had a bit of fine rain overnight in Matlock area but it's dried up now and i'd expect it should be okay.  Worth taking a soft brush for clearing the pine needles.

[bolehillbilly]

Went for a quick visit on Thursday.  All in good condition and suprisingly warm and sheltered down in the woods considering how cold it was up top in the car park.  Added a few new 5/6s  around and on the 'Big/Mossy Slab boulder just right of Elgars.  Also repeated the big mossly slab arete which is a cool problem, likely only 6b with some dodgy knee tactics and worth checking out (problem 11 on the topo).

[sidewinder]

Attempted to go for a quick late evening hit, however the path to the wall seems to have become so overgrown with ferns and nettles as to be (in shorts) pretty impassable/difficult to even discern where it went, is this just a summer thing, or did it require some public spirited person (with a sythe?) to clear.  Is there another approach other than the path from the corner of the car park?

[Bonjoy]

A lot of crags do this, bracken is very vigorous. Bouldering pads make very good steam rollers.

[sidewinder]

Did think about pad steamrolling/leapfrogging (we had two) but to be honest I was struggling to even see where the path was and didnt know if there were any access sensitivities that might get stirred up by a 1m wide steamrolled path appearing.

[fatneck]

Anyone been here recently? I'm camping not far away over the weekend and hoped it would be in decent nick after a hopefully dry week!?

[Bonjoy]

It had a fair bit of traffic during winter/spring so should be in decent nick. Most up to date prob info is here https://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/stanton-int-woods.html .
The crag dries very quickly in summer.

[fatneck]

Thanks Jon!

[bolehillbilly]

Anyone been here recently? I'm camping not far away over the weekend and hoped it would be in decent nick after a hopefully dry week!?

Most of the best blocks are clean, Bumlog, Hangman, Green Chapel, Eyes Slab, Mono Slab, Short Arete.
Not sure about Eyes to the Skies.

If you've got something specific and fairly highball in mind like Eyes to Skies , Green Chapel or Eyes Slab lines then might be worth chucking in a rope and harness to brush off any pine needles etc.

It's a top spot, some brilliant slabs.

[andy_e]

Appliance Friction is one of those problems that makes you run back around to the bottom and do it again, it's that good. Great crag, except for Bumlog, which is probably a good problem if you can do it