[205Chris]

Went to check this out with Nai this afternoon. Has the starting block always been loose?

It was very wobbly and only appeared to be wedged in place by soil on either side. We tried jamming a few stones in the left hand side to hold it in place but it still moved slightly every time you went to pull on so we decided to leave it rather than risk breaking it.

Anyone with the skills want to attempt a stabilisation job?

[Dutch]

I did it in march time and the block was worryingly lose then. I tried to get off the hold as quick as possible. Looks like it might be tricky to stabilise.

[Dolly]

I also looked at it on Saturday (I didn't realise it was a two matter)
Whilst the block was loose I couldn't see where it could go. It did seem quite securely wedged in.
Managed to fuck my back bending down to pick my jacket up as well.

[nai]

it'll come out before long if it gets much traffic, nothing much but mud and moss holding it in
 

[Dutch]

Yeah it wasn't quite that loose in march. That's a bit more worrying.

[Dolly]

Oh ok fair enough.

[205Chris]

Was back at Houndkirk earlier this afternoon. I've managed to wedge the block as best I can and there's very little movement in it now. It's a bit Heath Robinson and I probably won't get a job as a dry stone waller any time soon but it was secure enough for me to pull on with (and I'm hardly weight watcher of the year), although I did have brief visions of it working loose and trapping my leg like a low budget version of 127 hours.

I'd treat it as a temporary fix rather than a permanent solution and I'd suggest that anyone heading there to try it is as gentle as possible with it. It's a good problem and an opportunity to escape the crowds and would be a shame if it broke (although I imagine it would still be possible if the block did go, maybe a bit harder).

[cofe]

Effort Chris.

[nai]

Nice one Chris, take it you did the problem too - feel any easier today?

[205Chris]

Nice one Chris, take it you did the problem too - feel any easier today?

Cheers. Got the tick, the new approach you suggested was miles easier. Fresh skin & arms helped plus a bit of refined beta but it still felt tough for 7a+ to me.

[Dolly]

OK what's the beta please ?
I was trying left out to rubbish pinch, right hand to undercut/layaway, left hand to better pinch, left heel hook which then slid off and I swore
Do I need to get my right foot on the obvious good hold first before trying to move my right hand ? Cheers

[r-man]

video might help - http://peakbouldering.info/problems/3430

[205Chris]

OK what's the beta please ?

I used the same beta as Andy did on that video. A key bit of knowledge (and it's a bit hard to see on the video) is that when you bring your left heel up to your left hand for the move to the lip, you then move your right foot to brace your toe against the pinch that you used earlier with your right hand to help stop the cut loose.

[Dolly]

 Cheers for that and the video.nWill have a look when my back gets better

[Scouse D]

Good effort on the repair job. Still a slight wobble but wasn't going anywhere

[highrepute]

nice one. I thought this was a really quality problem. good to see it'll be staying in one piece for a bit longer. Top end 7a+ imho.

we found a shorter walk-in than described in guide. Parking in the big layby on the road to Fox House just after a you've passed Whitlow Road on your left (coming from shef). Walk back down the hill a bit from the layby (20m?) and there's a public footpath. Follow this till you get to a pole and then it's obvious to the Tor from here.

Hopefully that's of some use to someone.

[cofe]

This prob only just made the guide, I only got to climb it myself (the same day as the shonky vid) a week or two after the guide was done. We only found the alternative approach up the back at the same time too - certainly quicker/more direct. Jamie did give it 7b first, then at the very last minute changed his mind to 7a+ – I think they'd sussed a better way. I know plenty of people have found it stiff, so the consenus looks like 7b. His original name was also 'You bitch, you whore', or something like that, but I changed his mind... Grade aside, it's a fantastic problem, and I'm glad the block has been sorted.

[leeroy]

did this yesterday eve. great repair job chris, and a truly superb problem. nicely unique for the peak.

will stick a vid of that and the other houdkirk stuff on later.

edit - i reckoned 7a+/b in that there are much easier 7bs but also much harder ones.

[Jaspersharpe]

i reckoned 7a+/b in that there are much easier 7bs but also much harder ones.

Which would make it 7B.

[leeroy]

i reckoned 7a+/b in that there are much easier 7bs but also much harder ones.

Which would make it 7B.

yeh sorry didnt make that clear at all 

[Scouse D]

I did it without Left heel due to gammy hamstring with a big throw and double catch of the jug. I felt it still only just scraped in a 7B and was more like 7A+.
Grades eh?