[dave]

OK i'm getting some font psyche for next week, and as a fallback for the eventuality of not being able to do anything genuinley hard, lets hear about those problems (if any) which are an absolute disgrace to their grade. 7s and above please.

And i don't mean just easy for the grade, i mean those ones which only 8a.nu will recognise - pure ego wanking problems. all the ones which are a path for the tall, dynos, obscure ones, crappy sitstarts, i don't care.

so far i've heard that ange naif and rubis sur l'ongle are giveaways, what else?

fuck the experience, lets be in it for the numberz.

[Adam Lincoln]

Duroxamanie Direct
Rubis Su'longle
L'ange naif
Fleur De Rhum

[dave]

word - flashed durox direct last year. think scouse might have done that apremont (slopey rock landing?) innit.

anymore? there must be some real shockers out there.

[Adam Lincoln]

word - flashed durox direct last year. think scouse might have done that apremont (slopey rock landing?) innit.

anymore? there must be some real shockers out there.

Yeah, slopey landing, not that you will use it! French reckon its 7a+
Wouldnt have batted an eyelid at 6c

Actually, the 8a variation on Ange Naif. You get a no hands rest after you do the traverse and start the normal problem!

[Carnage]

Boules De Neufs at Boissy Aux Cailles. Ridiculously easy 7a tick for the tall.

Worth a look if you're in that hood. If not, I wouldn't bother although there are three or four awesome much harder probs, 7b and above.

Oh yeah, there's another we did which is a new sitter to this arete (with an obvious pinch and big sidepull) thing up near Le Mur Cordier at Cuisinere. Its just behind the clutch or orange/reds facing down towards Mr Dynamite. Did it second go. Never would have thought it 7a but Stat Man from the HTTP bloc vid tolds us it was and I'll take his word for it!

[a dense loner]

speakin of stat man. he does a problem on bleau, sit start, one move left then up prow. (first move almost lyin down). think it's given 7B+ in vid. disgrace. if u've just easily done jet set, sorry, if u're stood lookin at jet set, turn left n it's 30 ft away with it's back to u. or u cud turn round from jet set n wonder why impossible slab gets same grade  :?

[Scouse D]

do you mean jeu du toit? I think it's 7b in the 7 and 8 guide but maybe warrants 7a+ only. Still a good problem though.

[Carnage]

I thought he mean't the bizarre sit start to a blue (or-red can't remember in the sand pit area). Very small arete with a kind of rounded boss on it-one move wonder. I could be wrong- Its certainly one of the Stat man ones from HTTP.

[a dense loner]

u're on the money carnage. nice little prob, but wild grade.

[Omega]

how's about:

uranus 7a - total path at 7a (although most people try the pull on, the 7a version is actually a bounce start)

la magnifique 7a+ - dreaming, this one is 6b max

aerodynamite 7c - 7a+ would be a better grade especially if you're tall

la lune 7a - TOTAL gift if you're tall.  and you should never kick a gift horse in the nuts!

super prestat 7b+ - easier than Rubis

pensees cache 7b - arete at the end of the Eclipse traverse.  6c.

[dave]

aerodynamite 7c - 7a+ would be a better grade especially if you're tall

bollocks  -i'm tall and believe me if it was anything like 7a+ i'd have done it by now! anyway its 7b+ now which seems fair. certainly seems harder than carnage.

super prestat - not been on it but i find it hard to believe its easy.

[Omega]

as you like dave...

but aero is pretty easy if you can nail the jump.  just match hands, right hand to the massive slot/jug, foot up and done.

as for prestat, it took me far fewer goes than science friction, its considerably easier than l'impossible or lucifer at sabots.  it just has a committing snatch at the very top.  try it, i reckon you'll flash it

[dave]

i can piss the jump on aero everytime, and matching, ane getting the pinch, and the big slot, have fallen off after that. the jump is noting compared to the rest! also i've tried it with some lads who path 7a+s (well, scouse and cofe)who've can do the jump but not the rest. its not just me!

[Scouse D]

Super prestat is definately not easy!! you may well find it easy but most people dont.
aerodynamite is simple climbing but still extremely burly and way harder than 7a+. These two are established problems with grades that have been fine tuned over the years. They are certainly not soft.

[Omega]

a fair comment scouse d

i'm certainly not claiming to be anything special but i did find both problems pretty soft for the grade (compared to others in the forest at that level).  maybe i got lucky?

[Kim]

as for prestat, it took me far fewer goes than science friction, its considerably easier than l'impossible or lucifer at sabots.  it just has a committing snatch at the very top.  try it, i reckon you'll flash it

bring it on! slabs all the way... :D

prestat really easier than l'impossible? only tried prestat a little but didn't get very far, but soooo close to nailing l'impossible last time after a couple of sessions. will get back on em both next week  :D
you done lucifer? looked like it'd be nails sans pof.

[Omega]

i found lucifer really really hard (a lot harder than prestat).  trick was to get that first foot to stick although pof may have improved things.  

also, i was told that the large sloping ledge near the top was out.  if you use this its 7a apparently, otherwise you have this awkward hand cross move which is ok if the foot doesn't blow.  good problem.

prestat seemed to be all about getting the sequence right for the feet (wow! what an insight into slab climbing).  it was over three years ago now that i did it but i remember having to walk one foot through above the other just near the top to get the right foot high enough for the snatch.  helps if you have a look at the top holds first!

[dave]

i don't know if it even wanna try super prestat - last time i had a total mare getting off that boulder, got gripped.

[Kim]

i found lucifer really really hard (a lot harder than prestat).  trick was to get that first foot to stick although pof may have improved things.  

also, i was told that the large sloping ledge near the top was out.  if you use this its 7a apparently, otherwise you have this awkward hand cross move which is ok if the foot doesn't blow.  good problem.

prestat seemed to be all about getting the sequence right for the feet (wow! what an insight into slab climbing).  it was over three years ago now that i did it but i remember having to walk one foot through above the other just near the top to get the right foot high enough for the snatch.  helps if you have a look at the top holds first!

nice one, cheers, will try an get em sent!

[Omega]

how long are you out for kim?

i'm down from next friday.  perhaps a sabots slab session?

[Kim]

how long are you out for kim?

i'm down from next friday.  perhaps a sabots slab session?

a week from saturday so that'll pretty much be our last day there, an if I haven't done l'impossible by then that's where i'll be! might see you there then.

[dave]

...an if I haven't done l'impossible by then that's where i'll be!

you'll be on your own then son........

[nik at work]

I found prestat harder than lucifer, but I'm quite short if that makes a difference? Thought lucifer was a couple of fairly straightforward and obvious moves, prestat had much more moves and seemed trickier (and a LOT higher). Flashed lucifer, fell off prestat a fair bit (well OK lots)
Dunno anything about l'impossible - where and what is it? (I'm heading out in a couple of weeks).

[a dense loner]

i reckon lucifers nails as well. not one for this thread. will put alt thread up.

[Kim]

I found prestat harder than lucifer, but I'm quite short if that makes a difference? Thought lucifer was a couple of fairly straightforward and obvious moves, prestat had much more moves and seemed trickier (and a LOT higher). Flashed lucifer, fell off prestat a fair bit (well OK lots)
Dunno anything about l'impossible - where and what is it? (I'm heading out in a couple of weeks).

if your standing with your back to jet set it's the slabby left wall of the gap between the two boulders in front of you. classic 7a+.