[Oldmanmatt]

I seem to have 5 minutes...
I wonder how that happened?
Someone will notice in a minute so I'd better do this quick...

Mon - Quay, Bouldering working hard problems, Stamina work (10m, 7a, Climb it, rest 2      minutes climb it again X 5), Campus on the systems board (2 sets (6 runs)).
Tues- Nothing

Wed- Canceled session at Quay, more medical stuff.

Thurs- Nothing.

Fri- Quay, as Monday (- campus), plus some extra top roped routes 7a and 6c+. Could       hardly move at the end.

Sat- Nothing.

Sun- Chest, shoulder and core.
   I'll list the full routine for critique/ spotting of holes/flaws. Comments please.

Workout routine.                  From 01/02/12

WB= Weight belt       DB= Dumbell

1.   Stretch.

2.   Hand warm up.
   1X 20 ea, Pliers, spring up.
   1X 20 ea, Pliers, spring down.
   1X 20 ea, Foam.

Main routine, core, chest and shoulders.                 Rest 10 Min.
                                      V
   Exercise         Added weight   Reps (set 1)    l   Reps (set 2)
                                  l
3.   Press ups.         6kg (WB)      1X25    l   1X25
                                  l
4.   Pull ups (fingertip)      6kg (WB)      1X12    l   1X12
                                  l
5.   Squats         6kg (WB)         1X25    l   1X25
                                  l
6.   Triceps Dips         6kg (WB)      1X10    l   1X10
                                  l
7.   Crunches         0            1X60    l   1X60
                                  l
8.   Vertical Rotators      3kg (DB)      1X20ea    l   1X20ea
                                  l
9.   Crunch twists      3kg (DB)         1X30ea    l   1X30ea
                                  l
10.   Leg raises         0         1X60    l   1X60
                                  l
11.   Dorsal raises         3kg (DB)      1X20    l   1X20
                                  l
12.   Reverse leg raises      0         1X60ea    l   1X60ea
                                  l
13.   External Rotators      3kg (DB)      1X20ea    l   1X20ea
                              ^
                             Rest 10 Min.

14. Finger board. Repeaters.      1 set = 6x 7secs on 3 secs rest. (one minute).

   30* sloper 1 set.
   45* sloper 1 set
   Front 2 (open) 1 set.
   Mid 2 (open) 1 set.
   Back 2 (open) 1set (ish, still working that at unassisted).

Edit, that was readable, till I posted it and the layout went to shit.

[tomtom]

[Oldmanmatt]

:D
You've been waiting all day to do that, haven't you?

[tomtom]

:D
You've been waiting all day to do that, haven't you?

All week... *cough*

[Luthor]

STG     - Get fit for the lime / have fun bouldering / run faster
MTG     - F8a sport
_______________________________________________

Mon     - Rest
Tue     - Poor circuit board session, finger split stopped play.
Wed     - 8mile run (icy!!)
Thurs   - Good session at Leeds Depot.
Fri     - Works
Sat     - Clifftop boulders / cratcliffe / rowtor. Did boing boy, getting close on blood falls - need the top to be dry.
Sun     - Rest

[Luthor]

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/36642805?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="">Boing Boy, Clifftop Boulders</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4245065">lex</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>


  - need to read up on how to embed vimeo..

[fried]

Monday - Indoor session- Nearly finished when I spied a 6B that looked like my kind of thing, but fluffed the last move twice, decided to leave it for Friday.

Tuesday/ Thursday - Shoulder stuff

Friday - Indoor session- Get ready to lap up the glory of my first 6B indoors, but with 3 days of accumulated grime I can't do the crux. I'm informed that the top is a 'piece of piss'.

Saturday - nothing
Sunday - long session of shoulder stuff.

Weight 73.7kg

YYFY- sold the missus' car after only 8 months of trying, so carless which is a good excuse to not go out in the cold. Hopefully looking at something more practical tomorrow.

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; keep up with bouldering standards over winter, move into route training over March.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Indoor bouldering, easy circuit @TCA - fine, still just easy stuff but body coped with 2 days in a row.
T - Gym, 2x11mins arm cycling, 20 mins rec. cycling, weights - good, felt fairly energetic.
W - Outdoor bouldering @ Carrock Fell - great, full afternoon out, did several good problems quickly.
T - Gym, 20 mins rowing, 20 mins rec. cycling, endurance style weights - good, pleased with rowing, tired quickly with lighter long weights sets so will mix those in more.
F - Indoor bouldering, projecting-ish @TCA - okay, was a bit tired so didn't do a lot but started pushing myself again.
S - Rest.
S - Indoor routes @Ratho, 9 routes mostly mid-grade - good, didn't manage to do much hard stuff, but good mileage, need to work on crimps.

Good week nuff said.

[nai]

winter goal - 7C
summer goals, E4 & 8a

m - still feeling rough
T - bit better so had another quick look at Famous Grouse, sorted the sit move and the heel hook shizzle was starting to come together when I thought it best to quit for the day.
w v tired again.
T - got out early, intention was a Froggatt circuit but after Glass Slipper I found myself back at Rambeau and flailed at the same point as the last two attempts. 
f - kids half term started so nowt.
S - 600m swim
s

Bad week, been feeling grotty, lacking sleep and have a torn fingernail that doesn't appear to be in any hurry to heal (I know, stopping climbing on it would help...). Half term next week so unlikely to do much.

Interesting contrast between the two problems I've attempted this week, now spent three sessions stuck at the same point on them both but while FG has been a (mostly) enjoyable case of trial and error and moving forwards to the point where I'm confident it will go next session (the move that is, not necessarily the problem); on Rambeau I reached my highpoint quite quickly first session but have made no progress since and can't envisage a way of doing it without a bit extra reach, totally frustrating and can't see the point in putting any more time into it unfortunately. I guess that's just climbing 

[shark]

Thanks OMM

Weight 11-4-7
M. Eve. Physio. Pummelled by Ostro to sort out strained shoulder and generally locked up neck and back.
T. Eve. Foundry with kids. Couldn't climb for toffee.
W.Day. Encores and deadhangs. Forearms OK even if rest of upper body is screwed. Eve. Popped into Foundry on way home to boulder. Some improvement
T. 
F. Day. Fingery endurance session on systems board. Did well to start with but flagged quickly. Got to do this more regularly.
S.
S. Schlepped to tor and rubicon with Tom. Nothing dry I was interested in. Went to Foundry. Good session trying a problem on the Wave followed by some circuits on 40deg board. Felt like progress.

Frustrating week. Shoulder now a lot better and have a return match with Ostro tomorrow. Got quite glum failing to get anyone to come to Malham. Compensated by eating too much and putting on a couple of lbs. Hopefully crank it up a couple of notches this week.

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (1 done)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Planche, front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: BM: max hangs, 6m run, theraband & bicep eccentrics
T: Bouldering at NCC & bicep eccentrics
W: BM: one armers, 6m run, theraband, front lever progs & bicep eccentrics
T-S: rest - my elbows felt a bit sore so decided to give them a few days rest
S: Stanton Moor and Rowtor - looking for dry rock, not good choices of venue!

The week started off well but went down hill due to dodgy elbows and an interview. I will be surfing in Morocco for ten days from Sat so will post again after that.

[TobyD]

Mon - Quay,  Campus on the systems board

If you don't mind me asking, OMM, where the hell do you do this? Do you mean the 45deg (ish) board? If so your skin must be a lot more resilient than mine to deal with the 'orrible texture of most of those holds

[pete b]

M: Fingerboard. Mainly one arm with assistance.
T: Indoor bouldering at K2. Tired. Need to start getting more sleep on Monday evenings.
W: Nothing.
T: Fingerboard. Mainly one arm with assistance.
F: > 1 hour juggling (11 balls / 6 clubs).
S: 30 minute run.
S: Nothing

I've also been continuing my 'greasing the groove' style training by doing some fingerboard hangs every time I go up stairs.

[Oldmanmatt]

Mon - Quay,  Campus on the systems board

If you don't mind me asking, OMM, where the hell do you do this? Do you mean the 45deg (ish) board? If so your skin must be a lot more resilient than mine to deal with the 'orrible texture of most of those holds

Yep.
There is the symmetrical red route(s) on the centre line (either side of). One set consists of once up and down the left handed version, rest 2 minute, once up and down the right handed version. Feet off, of course. It's a tad sharp...
Oh yeah, I can't hang the penultimate hold yet, to pull through to the top hold, so I finnish hand on the penultimate.

[TobyD]

There is the symmetrical red route(s) on the centre line (either side of). One set consists of once up and down the left handed version, rest 2 minute, once up and down the right handed version. Feet off, of course. It's a tad sharp...

that was what i feared you meant  those are some revolting sharp edged jugs; good for hardening yourself up i suppose 

[marky8b]

6/2/12
Chapel session ANC & ARC Session transition week
ANC 15 moves x 9 sets fail on 8th (125 moves) 3 min rest, down to 2min 30secs (not to sure if its hard enough?)
ARC 20,10's x 2 sets @5 reps
set 1 on 20degree wall, set 2 on 40 degree wall (total 300 moves)
Strength circuits, 1 min on 1 min rest 1 set of press ups, crunchies, pull ups, shoulder press, crunchies, curls.
450 core

8/2/12
Chapel session ANP
Run/warm up
bouldering various problems between 4-8 moves approx 120 moves
2 x 10 pulls, finger board
300 core

9/2/12
Chapel session ARC & ANT
Run/warm up
20,10's x 2 x 5reps total 300 moves
Ant strength work
20 press into 20 curls x 2 sets
20 shoulder press into 20 uprows x 2 sets
2 x wrist curl x 10 reps

11/2/12
Chapel session ANP & ARC
warm up
ligh bouldering (50 moves)
20, 10's x 2 sets = 300moves
ANT strength
20 press  into 20 curls x 2 sets
20 shoulder press into 20 uprows x 2 sets

[leeroy]

stg - 7c+ over winter
ltg - hard sport in summer

M - most fun 7b ever, orgasme cosmique
T - some 7as at franchard
W - paris, tourist stuff
T - Bleau's Art and Carnage assis (small YYFY)
F - the brilliant attnetion chef d'hoover at buthiers
S - driving back, rest
S - everywhere in peak wet, great to be back 

Good week in font, will be back soon no doubt.

[fried]

F - the brilliant attnetion chef d'hoover at buthiers

That problem sucks! :drum roll:

[Duma]

Shirley you mean:

T - some problems from crouching that are 7A from sitting at franchard
T - Did Bleau's Art from crouching, should go next trip

Good effort on Carnage assis, even if it was off a double mat...

[leeroy]

Shirley you mean:

T - some problems from crouching that are 7A from sitting at franchard
T - Did Bleau's Art from crouching, should go next trip

Good effort on Carnage assis, even if it was off a double mat...

fair comments, dodgy holiday ethics for sure...

Edit - someone was trying what they claimed to be berezina assis with there left hand starting in the pocket, bit too dodgy even for me..

[duncan]

M - good session at The Arch: 20x green dots, 20 x pinks.
T -
W - Pull-ups
T - S 

Still failing to fight off a cold type thing.  Have the most weird side-effect (I presume): the world smells like we're back in the 1950s and everyone is a 40 a day person.

This winter's training doesn't seem to be happening.

[i_a_coops]

One good beastmaker session on thursday.... managed a set of repeaters half crimped on the BM crimps by the skin of my balls, then warmed down with 3 sets of encores open handing the same holds. Did repeaters with one hand on 35, one hand on 45, just. am working on asymmetric hangs with one hand in the slopey 2 finger pocket and one hand in the slightly better 2 finger pocket, can't do a full set of repeaters on that yet.

Seconded a VS in the Wye Valley on Saturday.

poor week for training. caffeine abuse is through the roof. 

[pete b]

One good beastmaker session on thursday.... managed a set of repeaters half crimped on the BM crimps by the skin of my balls, then warmed down with 3 sets of encores open handing the same holds.

How are you able to hang the BM crimps open handed more easily than half crimped? When you say open handed, do you mean 3 fingers?

[slackline]

How are you able to hang the BM crimps open handed more easily than half crimped? When you say open handed, do you mean 3 fingers?

My guess would be that he's trained open handed more than [half-]crimped (see various training threads about the benefits of training both open and crimp)

[i_a_coops]

How are you able to hang the BM crimps open handed more easily than half crimped? When you say open handed, do you mean 3 fingers?

I do mean three fingers - I can't get my little finger on fully open.

I'm much, much stronger open than crimped at the moment as I damaged a collateral ligament in my index finger about a year ago and have avoided crimping anything since then! Forcing yourself to climb everything open means that a) you can't climb as hard at first, b) you become much better at climbing open and c) you realise that climbing on bigger holds is way more fun than boning on minging razorblades, as for a given grade the moves are more exciting and less painful!

My finger's pretty much better now, bar the occasional twinge, but I completely lost the ability to crimp so have been trying to build back up to it slowly.

[iain]

Week 4 of 14

Between life and lurgy it was good to get anything done this week.

Thurs: wall, sub par session and tweaked back a little.
Sun: Day in Bristol including first TCA visit in a year. Didn't have the proper snap for bouldering but still came close to a 7B, then had a decent shot at the 7c+ traverse. All good ...

... except this morning I could barely move as back tweak had turned into all consuming muscle spasm 

STG: mend back and start weeks 5-7 PE training.

[205Chris]

M - Finished off the rest of the yellow circuit at the works.
T-F - Nada

S - Bowden. Did Transformer Direct, Toffs, Captain Haddock and Staggered.
S - Kyloe In. Not the greatest of conditions but ticked Jocks, then took ages to do the sit start. Felt knackered. Somehow managed to also do Monty Pythons (and sit start). Finished off with Hitchhikers off the block. Not a bad day out.

Pretty happy with the weekend's ticklist. Had another good day today at Hepburn (though sadly Northern Soul was damp). Back in Sheffield now for 2 enforced rest days for a work course then heading back up on Wednesday evening. Can't wait.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Frau M away for a few days: single parent.

M: Alpine approach training: step-ups w/heavy rucksack 30 minutes
T:
W: Missed my normal Weds night wall session due to childcare duties. Built mounting rig for beastmaker instead. Failed to hang slopers
T: Alpine approach training: step-ups w/heavy rucksack 35 minutes
F: Short bouldering session in office gym. Significant progress on project, of which I have now done all moves (10), and the crux twice in a session. Which makes it no longer a strength project but a PE project from here on in?
S: Snooowboarding, Berwang. V. nice little family/beginner friendly area. Good snow but bitterly cold.
S: Indoor bouldering, Thalkirchen. Laps on longish (15-20 move) steep juggy problems

[wsmith]

Week 5 of plan.

Rest week.

M.
T. Aerocap in garage. Tried 20/10s after reading Sharks post about them. Was alot better than expected and far less dull than what I normally do for aerocap. Thanks Shark 
W. Bouldering at Northampton.
T.
F.
S. Few routes at Redpoint in their comp. Fitness coming back.
S. Managed Trackside at Curbar before it started raining. Went to Burbage N is search of dry rock - not much found. Aerocap 20/10s when I got home.

First 'rest' week in a while but dont feel very rested at the end of it.

[webbo]

M. Turbo 50 mins freezing in garage ended up dressed for outdoors.
T. Rockcity struggling a bit managed some moves I couldn't do before.
W. Nothing.
Th. Rockcity New blue circuit did all but 2, then on stepped board managed a problem using the slopey ball.
F. Nothing.
S. Stanton moor, Cratcliffe and Ronin Hoods Stride. Looked at a lot of wet, verglassed rock and looked at some dry with alot of people on it. Managed to warm up a bit before trying the Kid, no joy I need a longer left leg. Did slopey traverse above T crack to finish despite a couple incidents with icey holds.
Su. weights struggling,feel a bit battered.

[Duma]

Going to try and join in again...
Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) aero every week
- Weight consistently 68ish
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year

M - nowt
T - TCA 3hrs, feeling pretty drained after poor nights sleep and entertaining daughter all day, but perked up a bit and managed Orange #7 (slabby 7Aish). Some token attempts at front levers to finish
W - TCA 3hrs, still felt jaded, circuit stuff so good change, but nothing too exciting, worked new White (8a+)
T - nowt, evening shift, slept all morning
F - see above
S - run, 5 miles round downs, felt hard
S - TCA 3hrs, almost went to bed instead, but actually had really good session, got White #12, Red #28, and Orange #6 (all 7Bish). Particularly pleasing as I'd pretty much written all of these off. Nothing very steep though, which is what I'm bad at.
Weight btwn 72 and 70

[tommytwotone]

STG: Cliff tickage etc etc
LTG: Font 7b

M - Nowt much
T - Big ego boost as a mate brought in his copy of Climber (featuring photos of me, tomtom and Grubes), workmates were very intrigued / surprised. City Bloc session eve, had a really good time - great setting once you get past the environment. Didn't do many hard problems but felt like I got a good working over trying them
W - Nowt again
T - Depot session back on the new league round - did OK but broke a few of my self imposed comp rules.
F - Nowt
S - Woke up feeling awful, spent whole day being sick
S - Lie-in, papers, late lunch with Mrs Tone and a pub quiz in the evening. Lovely day.

[biscuit]

last weeks goals:

2 x aerocap
1 x ancap
1 routes day - 7a+ needed

VSTG - 1 week time limit

Average body fat under 13% This week average 13.3%

2 x aerocap - 1 will probably be an easy multi pitch day
4 x 40 min runs


STG - 5 weeks

complete 7b pyramid

7b - 0 of 1
7a+ - 1 of 2
7a - 8 of 4
6c+ - 5 of 8

MTG - 14 weeks time limit
11% body fat
7b+ pyramid

LTG

7c in 2012

last weeks targets:

1 an cap
2 aero cap
1 routes session
body fat under 13%

Had a funny week with the body fat. A low of 11.6% :0) followed the day after with a high of 14.8% :0( Average was 13.3%

M - aerocap
T -
W - Routes
T -
F- aerocap
S - Nothing
S - 1 hr run

Didn't get my an cap in so i went to the wall today in my easy week to top up as i was feeling very rested and itching to climb.

Routes were good with my best display yet of snatching defeat from the jaws of victory on my 7a on-sight quest. I did Viejo Amigos ( admittedly with a bit of beta consisting of " the crux is hard for the tall get your feet up " ) and was a bit battered at the crux and essentially bottled it as i didn't want to go any higher above the bolt. The next hold was a corker, i would have made it for sure, and it would have been in the bag. As usual it went easy next go. On the plus side the guide actually reckons it should be 7a+, but i'll settle for hard 7a.

This week is an easy week with 2 aerocaps and nothing else. I am however going on a multi pitch on Friday but it's only a 6b so i'll call it an aerocap session.

Eaten far too much this weekend back in the UK - fried egg & bacon butties, roast dinners and fish and chips galore. That 13% target may be in trouble.

Wall session has shown me i am still plenty strong enough but need the ancap. Power fade was very noticeable.

Finger seems mended but it'll have another week off before boarding restarts.

Met some good local climbers this week who may just be being polite but they've said i should come out with them sometime. They are 8a and above climbers who were ARC'ing on the crag i wanted to do 4x4's on. I gave up in the end and just watched them cruise around a 40 degree overhang for over half an hour as a warm up. Now that's who i need to go climbing with