[iain]

Week 4 of 14

Between life and lurgy it was good to get anything done this week.

Thurs: wall, sub par session and tweaked back a little.
Sun: Day in Bristol including first TCA visit in a year. Didn't have the proper snap for bouldering but still came close to a 7B, then had a decent shot at the 7c+ traverse. All good ...

... except this morning I could barely move as back tweak had turned into all consuming muscle spasm 

STG: mend back and start weeks 5-7 PE training.

[205Chris]

M - Finished off the rest of the yellow circuit at the works.
T-F - Nada

S - Bowden. Did Transformer Direct, Toffs, Captain Haddock and Staggered.
S - Kyloe In. Not the greatest of conditions but ticked Jocks, then took ages to do the sit start. Felt knackered. Somehow managed to also do Monty Pythons (and sit start). Finished off with Hitchhikers off the block. Not a bad day out.

Pretty happy with the weekend's ticklist. Had another good day today at Hepburn (though sadly Northern Soul was damp). Back in Sheffield now for 2 enforced rest days for a work course then heading back up on Wednesday evening. Can't wait.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Frau M away for a few days: single parent.

M: Alpine approach training: step-ups w/heavy rucksack 30 minutes
T:
W: Missed my normal Weds night wall session due to childcare duties. Built mounting rig for beastmaker instead. Failed to hang slopers
T: Alpine approach training: step-ups w/heavy rucksack 35 minutes
F: Short bouldering session in office gym. Significant progress on project, of which I have now done all moves (10), and the crux twice in a session. Which makes it no longer a strength project but a PE project from here on in?
S: Snooowboarding, Berwang. V. nice little family/beginner friendly area. Good snow but bitterly cold.
S: Indoor bouldering, Thalkirchen. Laps on longish (15-20 move) steep juggy problems

[wsmith]

Week 5 of plan.

Rest week.

M.
T. Aerocap in garage. Tried 20/10s after reading Sharks post about them. Was alot better than expected and far less dull than what I normally do for aerocap. Thanks Shark 
W. Bouldering at Northampton.
T.
F.
S. Few routes at Redpoint in their comp. Fitness coming back.
S. Managed Trackside at Curbar before it started raining. Went to Burbage N is search of dry rock - not much found. Aerocap 20/10s when I got home.

First 'rest' week in a while but dont feel very rested at the end of it.

[webbo]

M. Turbo 50 mins freezing in garage ended up dressed for outdoors.
T. Rockcity struggling a bit managed some moves I couldn't do before.
W. Nothing.
Th. Rockcity New blue circuit did all but 2, then on stepped board managed a problem using the slopey ball.
F. Nothing.
S. Stanton moor, Cratcliffe and Ronin Hoods Stride. Looked at a lot of wet, verglassed rock and looked at some dry with alot of people on it. Managed to warm up a bit before trying the Kid, no joy I need a longer left leg. Did slopey traverse above T crack to finish despite a couple incidents with icey holds.
Su. weights struggling,feel a bit battered.

[Duma]

Going to try and join in again...
Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) aero every week
- Weight consistently 68ish
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year

M - nowt
T - TCA 3hrs, feeling pretty drained after poor nights sleep and entertaining daughter all day, but perked up a bit and managed Orange #7 (slabby 7Aish). Some token attempts at front levers to finish
W - TCA 3hrs, still felt jaded, circuit stuff so good change, but nothing too exciting, worked new White (8a+)
T - nowt, evening shift, slept all morning
F - see above
S - run, 5 miles round downs, felt hard
S - TCA 3hrs, almost went to bed instead, but actually had really good session, got White #12, Red #28, and Orange #6 (all 7Bish). Particularly pleasing as I'd pretty much written all of these off. Nothing very steep though, which is what I'm bad at.
Weight btwn 72 and 70

[tommytwotone]

STG: Cliff tickage etc etc
LTG: Font 7b

M - Nowt much
T - Big ego boost as a mate brought in his copy of Climber (featuring photos of me, tomtom and Grubes), workmates were very intrigued / surprised. City Bloc session eve, had a really good time - great setting once you get past the environment. Didn't do many hard problems but felt like I got a good working over trying them
W - Nowt again
T - Depot session back on the new league round - did OK but broke a few of my self imposed comp rules.
F - Nowt
S - Woke up feeling awful, spent whole day being sick
S - Lie-in, papers, late lunch with Mrs Tone and a pub quiz in the evening. Lovely day.

[biscuit]

last weeks goals:

2 x aerocap
1 x ancap
1 routes day - 7a+ needed

VSTG - 1 week time limit

Average body fat under 13% This week average 13.3%

2 x aerocap - 1 will probably be an easy multi pitch day
4 x 40 min runs


STG - 5 weeks

complete 7b pyramid

7b - 0 of 1
7a+ - 1 of 2
7a - 8 of 4
6c+ - 5 of 8

MTG - 14 weeks time limit
11% body fat
7b+ pyramid

LTG

7c in 2012

last weeks targets:

1 an cap
2 aero cap
1 routes session
body fat under 13%

Had a funny week with the body fat. A low of 11.6% :0) followed the day after with a high of 14.8% :0( Average was 13.3%

M - aerocap
T -
W - Routes
T -
F- aerocap
S - Nothing
S - 1 hr run

Didn't get my an cap in so i went to the wall today in my easy week to top up as i was feeling very rested and itching to climb.

Routes were good with my best display yet of snatching defeat from the jaws of victory on my 7a on-sight quest. I did Viejo Amigos ( admittedly with a bit of beta consisting of " the crux is hard for the tall get your feet up " ) and was a bit battered at the crux and essentially bottled it as i didn't want to go any higher above the bolt. The next hold was a corker, i would have made it for sure, and it would have been in the bag. As usual it went easy next go. On the plus side the guide actually reckons it should be 7a+, but i'll settle for hard 7a.

This week is an easy week with 2 aerocaps and nothing else. I am however going on a multi pitch on Friday but it's only a 6b so i'll call it an aerocap session.

Eaten far too much this weekend back in the UK - fried egg & bacon butties, roast dinners and fish and chips galore. That 13% target may be in trouble.

Wall session has shown me i am still plenty strong enough but need the ancap. Power fade was very noticeable.

Finger seems mended but it'll have another week off before boarding restarts.

Met some good local climbers this week who may just be being polite but they've said i should come out with them sometime. They are 8a and above climbers who were ARC'ing on the crag i wanted to do 4x4's on. I gave up in the end and just watched them cruise around a 40 degree overhang for over half an hour as a warm up. Now that's who i need to go climbing with