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Grit LGPs (Read 62489 times)

Fiend

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#100 Re: Grit LGPs
December 06, 2018, 05:07:01 pm
Dynamics of Change - Parthian Shot link??

tomtom

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#101 Re: Grit LGPs
December 06, 2018, 05:39:58 pm
Dynamics of Change - Parthian Shot link??

Kneeling or crouching start?

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#102 Re: Grit LGPs
December 06, 2018, 07:22:32 pm
Has that blunt arête at Rivelin been mentioned anywhere in this thread? I abseiled down it last year. Was definitely climbable and didn’t seem to desperate just very bold.

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#103 Re: Grit LGPs
December 06, 2018, 07:33:14 pm
Has that blunt arête at Rivelin been mentioned anywhere in this thread? I abseiled down it last year. Was definitely climbable and didn’t seem to desperate just very bold.

Where is it?

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#104 Re: Grit LGPs
December 06, 2018, 07:49:12 pm
To the left of Ausfaut / exit. Independent line / moves. Quite hard and committing step up off a shelf to get established

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#105 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 10:05:18 am
Enough of that nonsense TT, it's the line of the buttress!

Good call Dan.

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#106 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 10:27:08 am
The one mentioned in the Black Rocks bit of the BMC guide. The wall / slab left of Demon Rib. Cam at just under half height. Immaculate rock. And it's in a 'gallery'.

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#107 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 10:32:36 am
Wall left of Cave Wall at Froggatt. Looked at by Mike Lea some years ago.

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#108 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 10:40:29 am
From the previous page  ;D

There's one up the face left of Demon Rib at Black Rocks, totally independent of other routes. Climb up a groove just left of DR to a break and a cam, then climb the step slab above using a mono. The top looks like the crux and the cam in a touch below half height. Derek Bolger said he thought Matt Szabo top roped it years ago at 7a. It's lovely clean rock.

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#109 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 10:46:12 am
As I keep banging on about, the wall left of Womb With A View at Earl Seat needs to be done. Very pebbly but will (and nearly has some years ago) go. Ground up ethic in place.

Wall RIGHT of Womb With A View



Shout out to say that both of these have been done. Isn't it great that we can look back on things that were standing projects and see them done?

The wall on the left gave The Chieftain and the more superior line of Your Grace. Your Grace is the thing that I put some time into and Dan Varian eventually gave it 7B+. This grade is either wrong or they used a different sequence to what I tried. Your Grace is a definite step up in difficulty from any of the 7B+ walls that I've done and contains the single hardest move I think I've ever completed. So that's my ego saved ;)

The wall on the right needs a direct start adding to it. Is that even possible?
« Last Edit: December 07, 2018, 11:11:07 am by Will Hunt »

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#110 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 11:07:25 am
As I keep banging on about, the wall left of Womb With A View at Earl Seat needs to be done. Very pebbly but will (and nearly has some years ago) go. Ground up ethic in place.

Wall RIGHT of Womb With A View



Shout out to say that both of these have been done. Isn't it great that we can look back on things that were standing projects and see them done?

The wall on the left gave The Chieftain and the more superior line of Your Grace. Your Grace is the thing that I put some time into and Dan Varian eventually gave it 7B+. This grade is either wrong or they used a different sequence to what I tried. Your Grace is a definite step up in difficulty from any of the 7B+ walls that I've done and contained the single hardest move I think I've ever completed. So that's my ego saved ;)

The wall on the right needs a direct start adding to it. Is that even possible?

All of these do look exceptionally good, been meaning to check them out for some time. On the topic of Your Grace it is definitely worth taking all of Dan's grades with a pinch of salt.

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#111 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 12:32:15 pm
I climbed Your Grace just after Dan and can confirm the grade, we went to the slot with the right hand

Will Hunt

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#112 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 01:05:42 pm
I climbed Your Grace just after Dan and can confirm the grade, we went to the slot with the right hand

Couple of questions. Has the pebble that's round to the left now gone? You used to drape a middle finger over it and it turned the arete into a good sloper. I'd heard that it's gone but it looks in the Flickr pic like it's still there?

Did you then bump your hand up the arete in order to get the slot with the right hand? If not, how tall are you? It never really felt like there was any other part of the left arete that was useable so I didn't clean it.

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#113 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 01:19:49 pm
My memory is woefully poor so I’ll tell you what I can remember.. there’s a dimple on the left on the left which I used for my middle finger before going to the slot but I think there’s a pebble a tad lower

I’m average height (5.10 ish), it was a big span for me but not ridiculous

Will Hunt

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#114 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 01:23:12 pm
Nice one, ta. It sounds like the pebble is still intact and that I should have tried your sequence  :slap:

You live and learn.

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#115 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 01:25:32 pm
RIP Will's ego  :'(

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#116 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 01:30:56 pm
RIP Will's ego  :'(

Can’t now use height as an excuse as UKB has determined Will is neither tall nor short :)

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#117 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 01:46:47 pm
on the left on the left

Will's' dead ego in the box on the left.

Will Hunt

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#118 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 01:54:03 pm
on the left on the left

Will's' dead ego in the box on the left.

 :lol:

There is no violin small enough for this situation.

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#119 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 02:15:52 pm

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#120 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 09:40:08 pm
"The wall on the right needs a direct start adding to it. Is that even possible?"
Thats where i bloody went!  as if you'd ever bother stepping in from half height on that wall. It is a similar style of "eliminate" to Chieftain in that sense which comes even closer to the crack at the top.

Alex went RH to the pocket, i actually went LH and barely used the arete as it involved bending my wrist, which at the time didnt bend much. The grades of both are maybe harsh for yorkshire but fair enough for slabs in general, its easier than Dalle de fer and super prestat IMO. Le Denmat being a fairly solid reference for les pieds fort. The 3 slabs are absolutely superb and worthy of their lofty position in the Shire.

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#121 Re: Grit LGPs
December 07, 2018, 09:51:37 pm
Gotcha. For some reason I thought you'd gone up the crack a couple of moves.

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#122 Re: Grit LGPs
December 08, 2018, 02:04:44 pm
There's still some good fun stuff to be done in the Peak.

May not qualify for LGP status, but not a scratch:




 :ninja:

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#123 Re: Grit LGPs
December 09, 2018, 09:19:59 am
Where is this looks worth a look

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#124 Re: Grit LGPs
December 09, 2018, 09:57:46 am
Looks a bit like The Brow.

 

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