[Steve R]

re. doing anything with the peg - not sure exactly why but personally I'd prefer the route just left as it is.  Just treat the peg as probably worthless but may as well clip it sort of thing.  Went up there without a rope and bottled it, tried again another day with a rope and still bottled it.  Wiggy route!

[Steve R]

I've always thought putting a roller biner on a potentially dodgy peg might help ensure a soft catch and reduce the chance of it failing, providing the fallout zone is adaquate?

From memory, I thought roller biners increased max force?  Intuition agrees with memory but could be wrong...
ripper sling + stretchy 1/2 rope would help.
For something like green death (where you're presumably not that far from the gear) when in extremis and falling off best bet would probably be to make a grab for the draw or belayer's side of the rope to 'catch yourself' then lower hand over hand.  half the forces compared to belayer catching you int it

[Fiend]

LOL. Please make sure it's filmed when you do that. The logic is indeed there but it would look quite spectacular. Plus rope burns etc.

[SA Chris]

A grab for the 'draw would shock load the peg with a much higher load than a soft catch surely, and probably damage your arm / hand?

[grimer]

Doesn't Extreme Rock talk about someone going up it after a few pints in the Fox House and falling off and fucking themselves up?

[webbo]

Doesn't Extreme Rock talk about someone going up it after a few pints in the Fox House and falling off and fucking themselves up?

Keith Myhill.

[Don Jebus]

Some how drifted onto this thread from the one on Bransby's route. Not that I'm much of trad climber but it intrigued me, so I thought I'd see what info there was.

If you go to the 'other channel' and check the log book there is quite a bit of info regarding the peg. Supposedly a grey camalot will fit to back it up. Rob Greenwood also wrote this "Abbed down to check the peg beforehand. Considering its age it looked ok, didn't realise it was concreted in either! Could be backed up well with a large Alien."

Sounds like the peg, which is cemented, can be backed up. Maybe just go for it? 

[cheque]

Keith Myhill seconded the first ascent, went back to do it himself but still fell off before he reached the peg I think. There used to be a photo on the other channel of him in hospital with his leg in traction after the event. 4-5 months in traction if you broke your femur in those days...

[petejh]

For something like green death (where you're presumably not that far from the gear) when in extremis and falling off best bet would probably be to make a grab for the draw or belayer's side of the rope to 'catch yourself' then lower hand over hand.  half the forces compared to belayer catching you int it

AKA 'Doing a Honnold':

Alex stopped his fall [while simu-climbing during a speed ascent on El Cap] by catching the rope on the other side of his gear with his bare hands and suffered a rope burn.

https://rockandice.com/opinion/unsafe-at-speed/?cn-reloaded=1

[SA Chris]

He was lucky with just burns, weaker hands could have taken it down to the bone.

[ashtond6]

there is a good, normal sized cam, right next to the peg.

[SamT]

Thanks for all the beta guys - will have an ab one day, inspect peg and check out the gear.  More than happy with backing up the peg with a small cam.