[r-man]

Just stumbled on Nik's thread about Mytholm Steeps...

2)Uber-project, stand up at obvious hold, RH up to shit pocket, sort feet, LH up to poor undercut, sort feet, RH up to bomber jug. 3 moves, I can't do any of them. 8B and beyond.... You could add a sit or lie down start, a bit more climbing but wouldn't make it any harder.

[Franco]

Has anyone got a picture of that Millstone arete? I remember seeing something of interest on the left, but can't remember what it looked like. Would be a good object of psyche.

[Johnny Brown]

I thought you weren't very good and never left the Moors?

I have a pic, but its only shown to those who are man enough to call me a liar.

[Franco]

manker@live.co.uk Would be sage if you could send it there. I do leave the moors.

[ferret]

Just stumbled on Nik's thread about Mytholm Steeps...

2)Uber-project, stand up at obvious hold, RH up to shit pocket, sort feet, LH up to poor undercut, sort feet, RH up to bomber jug. 3 moves, I can't do any of them. 8B and beyond.... You could add a sit or lie down start, a bit more climbing but wouldn't make it any harder.

8B and beyond with emphasis on the BEYOND that pockets shit.

On another note what about this rumored  roof at Back Tor, heard mention of 8a+ ish etc yet not of anybody doing it. Is this another myth?

[Johnny Brown]

I wouldn't post your email on a forum Franco, unless you love getting spammed.

[clm]

Adam you are a liar.

[Johnny Brown]

You've seen it anyway.

[willackers]

I wouldn't post your email on a forum Franco, unless you love getting spammed.

 

We could sign him up to all sorts of dark and twisted shit 

[Franco]

It's just an old trolling account.

[grimer]

Not grit, but check this out

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=142334

[mark s]

Not grit, but check this out

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=142334

love those big square aretes.
there is something that draws me in
think i will dust my boots off for a nesscliff visit this summer with tina turnip

[r-man]

Direct start to Wuthering- almost top-roped by Johnny Dawes apparently. Bollocks
Big blank slab at the very far left of Millstone. Its an arete, but by all accounts doable
Wall right of Ulysses? Again, bollocks
Direct start to Fairy Steps?! You mean the 6c? I appreciate this isn't serious!

Just want to add a bit of realism to the proceedings. The Dawes things above are not projects, they are concepts. Lawrencefield project is the obvious one.

Dawes reckons he did all apart from the first two moves on the wall right of Ulysses. Are the first two moves impossible?
@16.15

[Fiend]

Nah he was just too short / weak.

Good bump for this thread, come on you strong buggers, do some of these.

[T_B]

Dawes reckons he did all apart from the first two moves on the wall right of Ulysses. Are the first two moves impossible?
@16.15

I saw Johnny on a top rope on this once, with Paul Mitchell. I reckon there are more realistic LGPs around 

The wall left of Early Riser at Earl is a similar looking but more doable proposition, for example. I've tried it - it relies on using big pebbles at the top and has no gear. E11?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=97101

[Stubbs]

Just stumbled on Nik's thread about Mytholm Steeps...

2)Uber-project, stand up at obvious hold, RH up to shit pocket, sort feet, LH up to poor undercut, sort feet, RH up to bomber jug. 3 moves, I can't do any of them. 8B and beyond.... You could add a sit or lie down start, a bit more climbing but wouldn't make it any harder.

Break to break dyno may be more realistic than using the holds in between, oh Wiiiiiiiiiiiiill!

[andy_e]

I'd like to see a Will vs. Dyno Dave jumping competition...

[Grubes]

The rostrum (free) at shooters is listed in OTM as been tried but not done.
I saw Kevin Thaw trying it he thought about E8, if you try 20+ year old mild steel aid bolts for gear.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=49857

some gear up there if you can hang around to place it.

[r-man]

Mytholm steeps

Break to break dyno may be more realistic than using the holds in between, oh Wiiiiiiiiiiiiill!
[/quote]

I pointed Polish Dave at this. He only had one or two goes before getting interested in something else. Pretty sure it's possible though.

[Tommy]

The rostrum (free) at shooters is listed in OTM as been tried but not done.
I saw Kevin Thaw trying it he thought about E8, if you try 20+ year old mild steel aid bolts for gear.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=49857

some gear up there if you can hang around to place it.

I think Pete W did it last year, E6 6c. Martin K got him clearing up a load of gaps...

[Grubes]

ah awesome. 
Martin said he was trying to set Pete on it when I was up there with him last year, must have done it since then.

[Fiend]

I saw Johnny on a top rope on this once, with Paul Mitchell. I reckon there are more realistic LGPs around 

The wall left of Early Riser at Earl is a similar looking but more doable proposition, for example. I've tried it - it relies on using big pebbles at the top and has no gear. E11?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=97101

Good call, possible Snow Free Problem due to the capping roof??

Grit needs more E11s.

[tc]

Grit needs more E11s.

What's an E11?

[dave]

It's one of those cards to get in a hospital in Europe.

[r-man]

From the other side...

Burbage 'Impossible' groove not impossible if you can do 4 English 7B moves in a row.Trouble is the right arête is too close to make it a real classic.

 The wall right of Zorev looks more possible.I did a few moves on it on the ab...
 Only 3 English 7A moves in a row on that one...

Dawes and I tried to top rope the roof direct to Wuthering at Stanage.Jonny touched the jug just below the lip.I was about 2 inches off,even then,an old man,ten years ago.

It amazes me that NOBODY has tried this since.There are 2 tiny undercuts about 2 feet out from the back wall.Some good footwork allows one to reach out to get small flakes 2 thirds across the roof.From these it is possible to jump for the jug.An 8a boulderer 5 foot ten or more should be able to do it on a top rope.Then just get a huge stack of mats.

 Come on ,get on an ab rope and look at the holds,instead of pussying about on the 6 foot probs at the Plantation...
 The jug below the lip can be hung with one hand.