[Burnsie]

OK I've read SCC and MacLeod's book, these gave me some decent training inspiration.

This autumn i read Horst's Training For Climbing.
Despite knowing that it contains some dubious training practices i thought I'd give it a go A) to see if i could spot them and B) for some training psyche.

So in order to purge the bollocks from my brain can everyone chip in with what they thing is nonsense and why.

As a starter for 10 :

being able to do 3 sets of 15 pullups
Still can't do this despite training pullups for the last 3 months

length of periodisation cycles
Too short for any muscle gain

HIT strips
Blatant commercialism

Any more for any more ?

[dave]

Is that the book where you need a busty blonde to train with?

[Muenchener]

In general, the bizarre American obsession with training for climbing by not climbing.

SCC is pretty much free of this but seems to be an exception: also on their forums I notice a general tendency to see campusing, fingerboarding (HIT strips) etc. as primary rather than supplementary training tools.

[erm, sam]

I don't know anything about you or your training, but it a tad amusing that you have read two of the modern classics about training, which focus on movement (SCC) and thinking hard about what is holding you back/trying somethign different etc (miskakes climbers make) and you end up deciding to make a commitment to a training methodology based almost entirely around training-not-climbing (basically system training with a books worth of waffle) that covers things you have tried but not got good at, which are only vaugly relevent to being a good climber (pull ups)
Is deciding to follow the Horst protocol really the single best thing you could do to get better at climbing?

[chris j]

I don't know anything about you or your training, but it a tad amusing that you have read two of the modern classics about training...

...Is deciding to follow the Horst protocol really the single best thing you could do to get better at climbing?

Think you might have missed the point - I think he's saying he read the first two and found them good and then read TFC for comedy value and to see if he could spot the alleged bad practices recommended in the book, and he's asking us to chip in with which parts of TFC are nonsense rather than saying he's going to follow it slavishly...

[Burnsie]

Err sam .... RTFQ !

And also re arrange these words Bollocks What Horst ?

Next autumn I'll read the goddard and neumann book, and will probably ask myself the same questions.
What is just rubbish and what can i adapt into my own training ?

For background info i have decided that my technique and movement is OK, what holds me back is raw power.
If there are footholds i can drop knee and flag my way up anything. but anthing that is vaguely campusey with poor smears or no footholds then I'm stuffed. Or really bunched moves or big high steps (specific flexibility).
So focus for this winters training is power, leading on to more rounded PE / Stamina in time for sport trip in march. (with plenty of stretching along side)
FWIW i did find the pullups usefull as a starter into campusing which I've never done much off, so they weren't completely useless.
I reckon I'll climb F8a before i can do 3x15 pullups.

Goals for this year : F8a RP, E5 O/S, Font 7b boulder.

Right back to the garage and campus board construction .....

[erm, sam]

Sorry. I just noticed the "i thought I'd give it a go" bit and didn't bother with anything else, obviously.

[fatdoc]

Err sam .... RTFQ !

And also re arrange these words Bollocks What Horst ?

Next autumn I'll read the goddard and neumann book, and will probably ask myself the same questions.
What is just rubbish and what can i adapt into my own training ?

For background info i have decided that my technique and movement is OK, what holds me back is raw power.
If there are footholds i can drop knee and flag my way up anything. but anthing that is vaguely campusey with poor smears or no footholds then I'm stuffed. Or really bunched moves or big high steps (specific flexibility).
So focus for this winters training is power, leading on to more rounded PE / Stamina in time for sport trip in march. (with plenty of stretching along side)
FWIW i did find the pullups usefull as a starter into campusing which I've never done much off, so they weren't completely useless.
I reckon I'll climb F8a before i can do 3x15 pullups.

Goals for this year : F8a RP, E5 O/S, Font 7b boulder.

Right back to the garage and campus board construction .....

 i know of many that couldnt do 5 pull ups and redpoint 8a.