I don't know anything about you or your training, but it a tad amusing that you have read two of the modern classics about training......Is deciding to follow the Horst protocol really the single best thing you could do to get better at climbing?
Err sam .... RTFQ !And also re arrange these words Bollocks What Horst ?Next autumn I'll read the goddard and neumann book, and will probably ask myself the same questions.What is just rubbish and what can i adapt into my own training ?For background info i have decided that my technique and movement is OK, what holds me back is raw power.If there are footholds i can drop knee and flag my way up anything. but anthing that is vaguely campusey with poor smears or no footholds then I'm stuffed. Or really bunched moves or big high steps (specific flexibility).So focus for this winters training is power, leading on to more rounded PE / Stamina in time for sport trip in march. (with plenty of stretching along side)FWIW i did find the pullups usefull as a starter into campusing which I've never done much off, so they weren't completely useless.I reckon I'll climb F8a before i can do 3x15 pullups.Goals for this year : F8a RP, E5 O/S, Font 7b boulder.Right back to the garage and campus board construction .....