[GCW]

I've used Anasazi Pinks for years, then swapped over to the Verdes when 5.10 changed things.  I've always liked them, but the durability of my last few pairs of Verdes has been pretty crappy- the upper tends to fall to bits pretty disappointingly.  It wasn't as much of an issue when I could get them for 60 quid, but now they are £100 I'm loathed to spend that much for something of poor build quality.

I still have the Boosters and Dragons for other use but want something less aggressive for grit etc.  I'm a bit out of touch, so any recommendations for an Anasazi Pink-like boot are well appreciated.  Obviously I know fitting is important etc, but which boots should I be looking at?

[galpinos]

Whites?

[Steve R]

Might be worth looking at these if you can find a place to try on (size same as 5:10s)?  Same vibram rubber as Sportiva shoes.  Impressed with build quality.
 http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/tenaya-masai-p-1203.html
 I've got a pair of these and a pair of  'inti' s - the velcro ones.  Feel similar (but better imo) to anasazi velcros for good allroundederness....  Early days but I can't really fault them so far.

[GCW]

Whites?

I did think that, but are they any less likely to drop to bits?

[Paul B]

No I don't think so and although they perform admirably on grit I wouldn't pick them as a first choice.

My last pair lasted shockingly. As my feet swelled up (it was hot in France) all of the glue holding the rubber onto the upper gave up leaving me with a painful boot that twisted uncontrollably. They're still the best UK limestone shoe (IMO).

[cofe]

Although they're now almost trashed, after about 2 1/2 years, I think my first pair of whites are the best shoes I've owned (and I love Pinks). Note that 95% of my climbing is on grit. I'm now trying to break a second pair in, while hoping my first pair last a little longer.

[GCW]

My last pair lasted shockingly. As my feet swelled up (it was hot in France) all of the glue holding the rubber onto the upper gave up leaving me with a painful boot that twisted uncontrollably.

I had the same thing.  I bought a fresh pair of Verdes, the first time I wore them half the toe box came away.

Sounds like you've done OK Cofe, I've had 3 pairs of Verdes now and they've all been the same.

[Paul B]

My recent pair won't even make a year (and its not the rubber thats in the worst state, the uppers are mauled), in fact I'd doubt if they've lasted 6 months (I started wearing them when the limestone dried out).

[cofe]

I've heard worse things about the greens to be honest, which is why I've avoided them, even though in principle they sound spot on. I'm just hoping these new whites will be good, so I don't have to fork out again. I don't really know what the other alternatives might be.

[John Gillott]

Might be worth looking at these if you can find a place to try on (size same as 5:10s)?  Same vibram rubber as Sportiva shoes.  Impressed with build quality.
 http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/tenaya-masai-p-1203.html
 I've got a pair of these and a pair of  'inti' s - the velcro ones.  Feel similar (but better imo) to anasazi velcros for good allroundederness....  Early days but I can't really fault them so far.

Anyone else got any views on these (and for that matter where it might be possible to try a pair on in either London or Sheffield - a quick search of the usual suspects hasn't come up with anything)? I like the sound of a smaller heel cup on a shoe very similar to a lace up anasazi.

[lagerstarfish]

I scored a couple of pairs of unused pinks off ebay a couple of months ago - worth having a flick through every now and then just in case

[Grubes]

Might be worth looking at these if you can find a place to try on (size same as 5:10s)?  Same vibram rubber as Sportiva shoes.  Impressed with build quality.
 http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/tenaya-masai-p-1203.html
 I've got a pair of these and a pair of  'inti' s - the velcro ones.  Feel similar (but better imo) to anasazi velcros for good allroundederness....  Early days but I can't really fault them so far.

Anyone else got any views on these (and for that matter where it might be possible to try a pair on in either London or Sheffield - a quick search of the usual suspects hasn't come up with anything)? I like the sound of a smaller heel cup on a shoe very similar to a lace up anasazi.

they sell tenaya shoes at rokt in Brighouse (near Huddersfield) I know Nik at work bought a pair to try out. I think hes in font at min so doubt he can give his opinion

[GCW]

Ah, I shall question said Hairy Dwarf upon his return.

[yorkshireman]

was in the same boat a few years back,years of 5.10 pinks,didnt get on with verdes and had become used to a flat non aggressive boot-tried boosters(too aggressive),verdes(hate onyx rubber),velcros(same with the rubber) and ended up with some scarpa vapour lace ups which are really good boots and can be used as a good all round boot,comfy and pretty wide fitting and dont stretch too much.i also have a pair of instinct lace ups which work really well in font and outside and some instinct slippers which have the best toe of any boot ive ever used but the heel is too soft.i love the scarpa instinct and vapour boots,not too aggressive,comfy and about the cheapest of the top shoes.hope it helps you 

[shark]

Whites?

I did think that, but are they any less likely to drop to bits?

I've had a few pairs and they been durable. What I don't like is how quickly they lose the lateral toe stiffness at which point they start to feel like Verdes so not a problem for you.

[Jim]

love my verdes, tried to try on some white a while ago but couldn't get them on properly due to my bunion. Velcro's at decathlon are £80
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/climbing-shoes-slippers-clothing-sports.html

[Fultonius]

Whites?

I did think that, but are they any less likely to drop to bits?

I've had a few pairs and they been durable. What I don't like is how quickly they lose the lateral toe stiffness at which point they start to feel like Verdes so not a problem for you.

True - they're great for sensitive little edges and dinks for about....2 weeks!  The worst thing is, that the sizing is so hit and miss that I've ended up with a pair of boats!  Partly my own fault for not trying 15 pairs on... I want a pair that feels like brand new blancos , but for at least a few months...

In fact, now I'm started - the lateral stiffness has got so bad on my last 2 pairs that I have genuinely struggled to stay on some pretty big footholds. First the edge of the shoe feels like it's bending, melting and rolling off the holds, then my foot starts to move ever so slightly in the shoe and finally BAM I'm off!

I actually think that might be the last pair of whites I buy...

[Muenchener]

Might be worth looking at these if you can find a place to try on (size same as 5:10s)?  Same vibram rubber as Sportiva shoes.  Impressed with build quality.
 http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/tenaya-masai-p-1203.html
 I've got a pair of these and a pair of  'inti' s - the velcro ones.  Feel similar (but better imo) to anasazi velcros for good allroundederness....  Early days but I can't really fault them so far.

Anyone else got any views on these (and for that matter where it might be possible to try a pair on in either London or Sheffield - a quick search of the usual suspects hasn't come up with anything)? I like the sound of a smaller heel cup on a shoe very similar to a lace up anasazi.

I can comment on the durability as my wife has a pair. She bought them as her first ever rock shoes over two years ago. They survived about a year and a half of beginner footwork before needing a resole, and resoled they are still going strong, so build quality seems to be just fine. I can't say anything about performance.

[Gritlad]

anyone have any thoughts on evolv shoes for the grit??

[nik at work]

Fear not intrepid boot purchasers, via the wonders of interwebology I can communicate with you across GREAT distances with my thoughts on Tenaya bootage.
The fit to me feels very much like an old 5.10 pink but a bit stiffer. I think this stiffness is down to the thicker rubber, which is, well, thicker. They seem to fit fine and the rubber appears to be reasonably sticky (I'd say probably not 5.10 sticky but not awful either). They seem relatively hard wearing also.
Having said that I still put on my worn in dragons as boot of choice, for me the rubber on the Tenaya's is just a bit too thick and they feel a bit clumsy and lack precision. I use them predominately indoor and they are fine. The heel is certainly neater than the Verde, but not as fly as the Dragon. Some would describe it as somewhere between the two.
Overall not a bad boot I'd say they seem well put together and pretty tough (and are quite a lot cheaper than 5.10), my main gripe is the lack of sensitivity but as you are so tall you can barely see your feet let alone sense what they are doing that shouldn't be an issue...

[robertostallioni]

and they feel a bit clumsy and lack precision.

Yes, thats exactly what they looked like. 

Cheaper than Solutions though if there's a nail to be knocked in. 

You back for Sunday worship at Chapel?

[andy_e]

Pontas lace-up?

[wiain]

Anyone else got any views on these (and for that matter where it might be possible to try a pair on in either London or Sheffield - a quick search of the usual suspects hasn't come up with anything)? I like the sound of a smaller heel cup on a shoe very similar to a lace up anasazi.

I have a pair on test that are half-way broken in and I've been moderately impressed. They were praps a bit insensitive at first but then so were all the new Anasazis I've had until they broke in a bit.

As far as I know noone in the Sheffield area stocks them yet but CragX were seriously considering it so that may change.

[Wipey Why]

I had a similar problem with the Greens. They were lovely fresh out of the box and would proceed to get softer and softer. After a few pairs of them I swapped to Miura Velcros. They seem to be more hard wearing and a pretty good all round shoe. 

[ShortRound]

Another vote for the Scarpa Instinct lace ups. They look fairly aggressive but are surprisingly comfortable. Definitely worth trying some on at least.

I'd advise against the evolv pontas lace ups. The rubber on the end of the toe is really thin and I kicked through two pairs in the space of 6months. This may say more about my footwork than the boot but I've not destroyed either my instincts or vapour velcros in twice that time.