[shark]

Weight 11.5-7

M. AM. Assisted 1 armers session - Progress
T.  Tor. Worked new 8a proj.
W.
T.  AM. Encores session - reduced weight-off by 1.25kg and crushed the session - realised after that I was weighing 1.25kg lighter than previous week - doh!. Went for curry in eve 
 
F.  Eve. Foundry. Tried routes on main wall. Got a  Also twisted knee badly on a drop knee move
S.  Limped. Did some fingertip pullups and AeroCap in Shed. Despondent.
S.  Tor. Good session on project - it might go down next session. Syked.

[i_a_coops]

Good luck with project Shark.

2 weeks in one due to mini trip:

M
T
W
T Cheddar, did some 5s + 6s, onsighted really good 7a Get That Man.
F Avon - did a really good 2 pitch HVS, sadly the weather turned ming.
S + S: Dewerstone. pretty much ticked the main cliff, did a couple of amazing E1s and the best HVS I've ever done.
M - Portland, did a lot of 5s + 6s, did Spanner Eyes second go. I need to stop putting pressure on myself to onsight more 7bs!
T
W
T - Swanage. Fell off (in some cases repeatedly, and/or near the top) two 7b+s, a 7a+ and a 7a. Good training at least! Did a steep 7b second go.
F
S
S - weighted front + back 3 finger drag deadhang session, + core workout. All the climbing seems to have been good for my core, feeling strong on front lever cha'mone. sadly term has begun so the volume of trips is going to decrease a bit, but i think my finger is feeling ready for some harder redpoints. 

[chris05]

M: Theraband
T: bouldering at NCC
W: rest
T: BM max hangs & 5m run
F: nothing
S: nothing
S: bouldering at NCC, 5m run & theraband

Bit of a rubbish week, mainly as I couldn't get outside at the weekend. This will be the same for about the next three weeks due to various commitments. Will stick mainly to the BM for this time and hopefully get a few more of the aims done when I can get out again.

[Luthor]

STG  - bouldering / injury free
MTG  - new goals needed
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - Rest
Tue     - Works: blue bloc circuit
Wed     - Rest / Elbow eccentric curls
Thurs   - Rest
Fri     - Bouldering at Earl Crag. Did Desert Island Arete.
Sat     - Works: Comp Wall
Sun     - Works: light bouldering sess. Elbow eccentric curls

[heelhookofglory]

On holiday this week.

M: Travelling. Core & chest
T: MTB 16km / 350m ascent
W: Rest
T: Core & chest. MTB 10km / 300m ascent
F: Core & chest
S: Rest
S: Travelling. Core & chest

Climbing later on today (Monday) and I can't wait. It's my first session in about 5 weeks! Really, really hope my finger holds up. Will be gutted if it's still weak after a 5-week lay-off.

[abarro81]

It's my first session in about 5 weeks! Really, really hope my finger holds up. Will be gutted if it's still weak after a 5-week lay-off.

I've not read the old posts so I don't know what you did to it, but I'd have thought that your fingers are guaranteed to feel weak and tweaky after 5 weeks off, even if they weren't injured in the first place...

[duncan]

It's my first session in about 5 weeks! Really, really hope my finger holds up. Will be gutted if it's still weak after a 5-week lay-off.

I've not read the old posts so I don't know what you did to it, but I'd have thought that your fingers are guaranteed to feel weak and tweaky after 5 weeks off, even if they weren't injured in the first place...

I'd agree.  Ease into it ...

M - Run, shoulder exs.
T - Shoulder exs.
W - Arch - Bouldering
T - Run
F - Arch - gentle play
S - long walk
S - Arch - Bouldering

Tried to up the intensity a little this week after several months of taking it easy ('training' nearly all rehab./light endurance/playing).  "Good" shoulder - now officially bad shoulder - is still not great.  I think I need someone to have a fresh look at this and have booked to do battle with GP for consultant referral.  Any suggestions of a good shoulder physio. in London!?

[heelhookofglory]

Yeah they'll be weaker than 5 weeks ago that's for sure but what I meant was I hope my A2 injury is somewhat recovered. Will be taking it very easy for a few sessions and plan to hit hard training again (hopefully) at the end of this month -- depending on how my first few easier session go.

[Three Nine]

It's my first session in about 5 weeks! Really, really hope my finger holds up. Will be gutted if it's still weak after a 5-week lay-off.

I've not read the old posts so I don't know what you did to it, but I'd have thought that your fingers are guaranteed to feel weak and tweaky after 5 weeks off, even if they weren't injured in the first place...

Taking more than about a week off seems like madness for almost any injury! Stu Littlefair did a good post on his blog about this where he said he took a month off for a shoulder and his fingers have been shit ever since or something like that. See also Keith Bradbury's blog archive - exactly the same thing. Always better to keep ticking over even if we are talking 30mins light traversing down the wall three nights a week or something. Otherwise you get a ton of scar tissue etc.

[i_a_coops]

Taking more than about a week off seems like madness for almost any injury! Otherwise you get a ton of scar tissue etc.

Fo' realz, I had a finger injury then 3 months off with a broken foot and ended up with an index finger that creaks like a rusty hinge. Breaking the scar tissue down is a nightmare too, it's taken a further 3 months to get vaguely happy crimping with it again, and it still creaks a bit. It only started noticeably improving when i started climbing on it again.

[nai]

stg - get healthy
mtg - stay healthy
ltg - crush

M - lots of blodders up to 6C.
T-S lots of fuck all

Looking to resume activities soon, swelling in forearm is much reduce, a back discomfort appears to have passed and a time consuming work item has just been chalked off so time should be available again.  Might try some pullups tonight and if that goes ok try three days of deadhanging

N.b. is it just coincidence that my back has come close to "going" for the first time in over two years during my most sedentary two month period since the last time?

[fried]

Monday - Thursday - A whole lot of not much, some vague shoulder stuff while cooking dinner.
Friday - Good indoor session - I've given up actually looking at grades, just climbing as much in as many different styles as possible.
Saturday - Cook Thai food, get drunk, dance all night.
Sunday - Unbelievably, have another good indoor session. Even do some core stuff.

STG - Still trying to get rid of the fuckin' car, find a garage, get out on some rock. Everyone in the missus' family has a birthday on just about every weekend until November, it's killing me.

MTG - A long dry cold spell and some slabs.

Weight 74.8kg

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals:
F7c - Indecent Direct- Ticked!
F7c+ - Unknown as yet.
F7b+ in a session - Possibly Sardine?
F8a before 2014
7B+ This winter

M: Raven Tor - Got on Indecent Direct: 1st RP breached previous highpoint but LH crimp felt slimy, messed with me head so lobbed. 2nd RP sun on the crag now, slipped off swapping feet. 3rd RP got to LH crimp again but was too tired for next move... Arseburgers!
T: Bouldering @ The Works - Good session on new blue circuit.
W: Lump boxes.
T: As above.
F: Raven Tor - Got on Indecent Direct again: 1st RP reached highpoint but foot slipped unexpectedly going for sidepull off LH Crimp. 2nd RP everything works out and it's in the bag... YYFY!
S: Bouldering @ The Works - Polish off more blues and make progress and some decent links on brown 7c on circuit board.
S: Chil... Feel like I'm coming down with a cold

A great week! Finally feeling like it's coming together, ticked one of my goals and in less time than I'd initially expected. Actual RP felt pretty steady which shows how much is in the mind. I do need to sort out my RP strategy tho as I was bricking it all day Thursday and Friday.
Need to decide wether to go for the 7b+ in a session now or work on another Tor project for the next few weeks (either another 7c or a 7c+). Then it's on with the bouldering and waiting for sprog #2's imminent arrival.

This week: Tor M, F and posssibly Sat, Works the rest of the time, maybe a fingerboard session.

:D   

[tommytwotone]

STG - Cliff tickage
LTG - Font 7b

M - Nowt much
T - Good board session featuring addition of new holds
W - Depot session on Leeds Uni Comp problems - a few good flashes but hit a frustrating peak on some of the V5ish stuff
T - Nowt
F - Off to North York Moors for the weekend - good session at the "Duck Boulders"
S - Tried to go to Clemmit In The Woods but got rained off on first problem, headed over to the coast and managed a decent afternoon at Ravensdale. Nice fish n chips in Whitby afterwards.
S - Back to Duck with a strong team but I wasn't firing - crap night's sleep, tiredness and a cold and damp venue. Back home afterwards.

Bit of a weird week, great to have a long weekend away but as a lot of it was new problems hard to know where you are grade-wise.

Judging by the change in the weather my STG will get some progress, seems it's Cliff season already!

[heelhookofglory]

Well I'm happy to report that, apart from my power endurance being a little low and my skin breaking up easily on my tips, that I felt pretty much ok. It was only an easy session but I did try out a few crimps, just as a test really, and it felt good. Not sure about the scar tissue thing, I guess I'll find out over the next few sessions and when I eventually start ramping up again. I hope I've not done any lasting damage. I certainly didn't want to be climbing on it though during the last few weeks as it was quite painful.

[heelhookofglory]

Taking more than about a week off seems like madness for almost any injury! Stu Littlefair did a good post on his blog about this where he said he took a month off for a shoulder and his fingers have been shit ever since or something like that. See also Keith Bradbury's blog archive - exactly the same thing. Always better to keep ticking over even if we are talking 30mins light traversing down the wall three nights a week or something. Otherwise you get a ton of scar tissue etc.

Cheers, I'll have a read of those.

I took a few weeks off last year and came back feeling stronger than ever. I did cross-train, as with this time, so maybe that helped keep things ticking over, I'm not sure. Does pulling brake levers on a mountain bike help?  Probably not 

[Muenchener]

STG:  Score > 600 in boulder comp in two weeks
   Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M: Frankenjura, Stierberger Gemsenwand. Day Three, tired, didn't try anything hard. Succeeded in falling off a 6a; it had an authentic Kurt Albert redpoint at the start, so it would have been disrespectful to onsight it.
T: yoga
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Fired up after Frankenjura; two 6b+ redpoints, both second go. Go me.
T: yoga
F: Office gym bouldering: turkish get-ups & 10 mins ARC warm up, 30 mins threshold bouldering, rotator cuff & wrist extensor exercises
S:
S: Wall, Gilching. Routes: onsighting & falling practice.

[shark]

F7c - Indecent Direct- Ticked!
F7c+ - Unknown as yet.

Need to decide wether to go for the 7b+ in a session now or work on another Tor project for the next few weeks (either another 7c or a 7c+).

How about doing Full Monty - the Indecent Extension - its probably only 7b from the belay but out there. Cunning kneebar useful on left before heading over the roof. You can leave your hat on.   

[webbo]

STG.
Recover from elbow op.
M. weights,used abit more weight on benchpress. Deadhanging 8 secs and 4 lbs on all grips except 35 degree slopers 10 secs and 8 lbs.
T. Nothing.
W. Nothing
Th. Drive missus to Sheffield for knee op.Back home,weights manage 60k for 2 reps on benchpress.Deadhanging 8 lbs and 6 secs on all grips except 35 degree slopers 10 secs and 12 lbs.
F. Back to Sheffield to collect missus. Bike 1 hr 45 mins.
S. Go climbing for first time in 3 plus weeks.Manage to repeat 4 of the v5s first go,got tired pretty quickly.
Su. Planned to ride my bike but due to the rain went to Leeds wall. Managed a red 2nd go and did all but one of the greens first go.

Going ok given time off and elbow feels ok.

[webbo]

F7c - Indecent Direct- Ticked!
F7c+ - Unknown as yet.

Need to decide wether to go for the 7b+ in a session now or work on another Tor project for the next few weeks (either another 7c or a 7c+).

Beware that your pryamid doesn't get too pointy.
 

[tomtom]

Mon > Fri. Pressups 20-60 every day..
Fri. Logport wall. Christ I'm weak..
Sat: drink
Sun: Logport wall. they now have a £6 bouldering only fee which seems like a good deal... (compared to the £8 it was,...)

Enthusiasm: low.

[Duncan Disorderly]

F7c - Indecent Direct- Ticked!
F7c+ - Unknown as yet.

Need to decide wether to go for the 7b+ in a session now or work on another Tor project for the next few weeks (either another 7c or a 7c+).

How about doing Full Monty - the Indecent Extension - its probably only 7b from the belay but out there. Cunning kneebar useful on left before heading over the roof. You can leave your hat on.

I did think about this... Especially with the good rest before the finish of indecent. I had a go on Push Up today with Dave and it felt ok (just painful rather than hard) so was possibly thinking about getting back on Body Machine...

Decisions........

:D (lemme know if you fancy Friday Avo or sometime over the weekend btw..)

[205Chris]

F7c - Indecent Direct- Ticked!

Boom! Nice one DD 

STG: Font in 3 weeks. Tick off some quality 7s.

M: 1 hour on beastmaker
T: Comp problems at the works
W: Foundry - Bouldering on the wave
T: Nada
F: Cratcliffe. Conditions were good, I was rubbish. Shut down by Jerry's Traverse + T-Crack.
S: Churnet. Tick off a few 7s at Wrights then go and try Bizarre. Despite being close last year I feel miles away (I'm blaming conditions...).
S: Works - Comp problems

Feel like the training's going well but disappointed not to be getting out on the grit due to conditions. Am I the only person in the country wanting the unseasonably warm weather to end?

[heelhookofglory]

S: Churnet. Tick off a few 7s at Wrights then go and try Bizarre. Despite being close last year I feel miles away (I'm blaming conditions...).

Hoping to get on this myself this winter.

[tunaficiency]

LTG : andi popps e7 ring my bell in the pass, crazy trad line in the gorge
MtG : 7c sport
M : went to ruthin failed on 6b + id done before then got lost cause 6c+ with some beta from kate
felt fairly easy. Then got on summer time blues( 7a retro bolted e5 6b ) with limited time tick marks were still there and did it straight away( second go) so didnt manage to onsight any of the 7a's but 2 second go and one 3 rd go.
T: rest
W: went to ruthin kate ticked the whole lost boys buttress 6b+ 6b+ 6c and 6c+ i seconded then tried wee beastie 7b cool route with very painfull mono, very doable.
T: abbed down a line in the gorge scary, to clean and inspect good long term project
F: cold
S:cold
S: cold