It's my first session in about 5 weeks! Really, really hope my finger holds up. Will be gutted if it's still weak after a 5-week lay-off.
Quote from: Steve Perry (Pezz) on October 10, 2011, 10:20:33 amIt's my first session in about 5 weeks! Really, really hope my finger holds up. Will be gutted if it's still weak after a 5-week lay-off.I've not read the old posts so I don't know what you did to it, but I'd have thought that your fingers are guaranteed to feel weak and tweaky after 5 weeks off, even if they weren't injured in the first place...
Taking more than about a week off seems like madness for almost any injury! Otherwise you get a ton of scar tissue etc.
Taking more than about a week off seems like madness for almost any injury! Stu Littlefair did a good post on his blog about this where he said he took a month off for a shoulder and his fingers have been shit ever since or something like that. See also Keith Bradbury's blog archive - exactly the same thing. Always better to keep ticking over even if we are talking 30mins light traversing down the wall three nights a week or something. Otherwise you get a ton of scar tissue etc.
F7c - Indecent Direct- Ticked! F7c+ - Unknown as yet.Need to decide wether to go for the 7b+ in a session now or work on another Tor project for the next few weeks (either another 7c or a 7c+).
Quote from: Duncan Disorderly on October 10, 2011, 04:16:51 pmF7c - Indecent Direct- Ticked! F7c+ - Unknown as yet.Need to decide wether to go for the 7b+ in a session now or work on another Tor project for the next few weeks (either another 7c or a 7c+). Beware that your pryamid doesn't get too pointy.
Quote from: Duncan Disorderly on October 10, 2011, 04:16:51 pmF7c - Indecent Direct- Ticked! F7c+ - Unknown as yet.Need to decide wether to go for the 7b+ in a session now or work on another Tor project for the next few weeks (either another 7c or a 7c+). How about doing Full Monty - the Indecent Extension - its probably only 7b from the belay but out there. Cunning kneebar useful on left before heading over the roof. You can leave your hat on.
F7c - Indecent Direct- Ticked!
S: Churnet. Tick off a few 7s at Wrights then go and try Bizarre. Despite being close last year I feel miles away (I'm blaming conditions...).