[IanP]

Great answer.

I'm interested in the above though - why exactly is this because it confuses the fuck out of me that I'm bouldering V9 at some bouldering centres and V7/V8 even in places I think the grading is tough and doing plenty of circuit work for PE, yet I still struggle on individual moves when I get onto 7b+ routes?

I don't manage to get on routes of this grade very often (due to my usual climbing partner climbing mostly lower grades) but the moves can't be that hard can they?!?

Apologies for the thread hijack by the way

Where are the routes you're getting on and what sort of routes - my experience is the opposite, I'm weak and pretty rubbish on resin so boulder between V4 and V6 indoors but  don't usually find the moves on routes in the 7b+/7c range too bad.  It generally suprises me when strong people don't crush routes more easily (though as soon as they spend any time doing routes  it often seems that they do!)

[Fultonius]

No doubt the style of climbing you're doing on your V7-V9 problems bares no resemblance to the routes you're trying?

Still, even so, I would've thought you should be crushing the fvck out of a 7b+!!  I'm only V 6ish indoors and have done a few >F7c routes and one easy F8a outdoors.

What grades do you boulder outside?  Just another bit of proof that indoor bouldering grades are about as relevant as a chocolate enema!

[Dexter]

I have done 7C but I am shit on routes however this is due to not doing much routes and so I tend to take the bouldering approach of CRUSH EVERY HOLD INTO OBLIVION!! which leaves me pumped in 10 seconds however if I do some route sessions I stop this and become much much better at routes moral of the story if you want to get good at something just do more of it.
Also I'm 6" 3 and I weigh 11st but I have no problem on burly problems so my advice is climb more burly stuff, do more routes also check out the malc smith pro tips thing on burl as its pretty useful

[SA Chris]

So the simple answer is.....







Kidding, there's no simple answer, and no shortcuts to the top of the tower of power.

[chris_j_s]

Where are the routes you're getting on and what sort of routes - my experience is the opposite, I'm weak and pretty rubbish on resin so boulder between V4 and V6 indoors but  don't usually find the moves on routes in the 7b+/7c range too bad.  It generally suprises me when strong people don't crush routes more easily (though as soon as they spend any time doing routes  it often seems that they do!)

Illywacker @ the Hollywood bowl is the one I'm really struggling on (v. burly), but also Obsession and Lost in Thought, Lost in Time at Victoria Cave (Attermire). Someone suggested to me that Revival @ Gordale might be a good one to try but I haven't been on it yet.

Frustratingly I even had a torrid time doing Nerve Ending at Kilnsey which is only 7b!!

No doubt the style of climbing you're doing on your V7-V9 problems bares no resemblance to the routes you're trying?

Still, even so, I would've thought you should be crushing the fvck out of a 7b+!!  I'm only V 6ish indoors and have done a few >F7c routes and one easy F8a outdoors.

What grades do you boulder outside?  Just another bit of proof that indoor bouldering grades are about as relevant as a chocolate enema!

Outside my best is V7 but that is in the context of not doing a great deal of outdoor bouldering. In the interests of being a rounded climber I generally try to do problems on a range of angles and types of hold.

I guess overgripping is a distinct possibility as I'm doing so much bouldering currently.

Interestingly onsighting has not been a problem and I've managed to jump two grades from my 2010 level (frequently onsighting 7a, come close a few times on 7a+) - it's just the redpointing which has been a source of frustration.

Cheers for the replies.

[mark s]

without a doubt a bad idea.
5 months ago i was 13 1/4 st    i hit the weights,i took a whole variety of differant supplements.i went up to 15 st 3lb at the very heaviest.although ive gained  strength.not a massive amount.bench was 118kg x2 with a fooked shoulder the other week.
my flexability is non existant,i have a frigging spaghetti server to scratch my back now!!! when i have bben out climbing my extra strength is far outweighed by the 2 stone ive gained.i also cant get my legs in my harness,much to the enjoyment of turner.
climbing is now hard
ive also lost 90 percent of my climbing interest and prefer going the gym.
my goals are now non climbing related and all about the gym.

my advise is make use of being so skinny and climb more

[abarro81]

I don't really know why getting strong on boulders doesn't always transfer quickly to being strong on routes. Note, I'm not talking here about boulderers overcrushing moves and getting pumped quickly, but just not even being that strong on moves which they would crush off the floor. Even when on top rope, or with a bolt above them clipped. Some of it might be style - moves on routes are often done more static and less flicky, some of it is undoubtedly mental aspects etc, but I think the only way to get that transfer is to try hard moves on routes as well as boulders.

[TobyD]

I don't really know why getting strong on boulders doesn't always transfer quickly to being strong on routes... I think the only way to get that transfer is to try hard moves on routes as well as boulders.

It would be interesting to try and study this with identically set moves on a board and an indoor route to try and test whether the difference is mainly psychological, or more that problems have a different 'style' of moves to routes.
I agree though, there does not seem to be a direct correlation between strong on a problem, to even strong on a short link on top rope. Perhaps partially to do with the fact that most of the bouldering in the UK is on grit, sandstone, or very short power orientated limestone; i wonder whether you would see a better transfer to sport prowess somewhere like hueco tanks?

[a dense loner]

yes you do, typically the problems are longer with easier moves. same with a lot of places, which is why some people fare a lot better abroad than say on a short tweaky unpleasant eliminate limestone prob here. this difference leads to people saying some places are soft while others are pumped out of their tiny minds. not only is there a massive difference in types of routes there also is in bouldering